| Author |
Message |
    
Todd McArtor (Todd)
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 02:56 pm: | 
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Ran perfectly yesterday. This morning, turns over fine, won't start. Owned only 2 months. Has, on rare occasion, taken some cranking to fire up... My first guess is fuel pump. But I read a post about a weak remote/alarm disabling the fuel pump or spark. Also read where no-start issues are sometimes traced to corroded electrical grounds. The basics: fuses, plugs, wires, cap all LOOK good. Truck is overall beautiful (not a beater) but has 90K. Where would a guy start in diagnosing this one? Thanks in advance. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 04:07 pm: |
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Check the basics-do you have fuel to the fuel rail? Spark at the spark plugs. Go back from there.
Does it sounds as though it wants to start?
As for the fuel pump, can you hear it doing its thing when you first turn the key on? If no, pull the carpet out and remove the access plate to see if you're getting electricity that far. If not, try to jumper it to see if you can get the fuel pump to run. If you can, backtrack the wires to where you no longer have any electricity.
In the event you do need a fuel pump, there are many that can be fitted into the Disco to save you the pain of paying genuine parts prices. You do not need to replace the entire assembly, just the motor/pump. Some of the fellas have even had success replacing the brushes and getting the job done for just a few dollars. I have a fuel pump to a Mazda pickup in my Disco. Runs great.
Also, I recently suufered a similar failure. In my case, one of the screws holding the vacuum advance canister on had come out and allowed the distributor to retard horribly. $110 towing and a free fix in five minutes once it was home.
Good luck,
Paul |
Mike Rupp (Mike_Rupp)
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 05:40 pm: |
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Here's a trick to try if you have a dying fuel pump. Next time that you try to start the car, turn the ignition on and leave on for a few seconds without cranking the engine. Then turn the key off. Then turn key on again & wait a couple of seconds again. Now try to start the car. If this improves things, I'd guess that its the fuel pump.
In my car, each time of keying on & off would allow the fuel pump to build pressure each time thus helping the starting the engine.
Or just buy a fuel pressure tester gauge and find out for sure.
Mike |
jerry
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 07:33 pm: |
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the stepper motor can have an affect on this as well if you take it off you should be able to move it by hand if not it either needs to be cleaned or replaced. try this floor it while trying to start. if if starts in a few seconds that it is eather a fuel problem and possibly the stepper motor. if the vehicle starts do a fuel pressure test with the vehicle running. it should be about 33-37 if i remember correctly. than shut off the vehicle and see how low it drops i belive it shouldnt go below 27. mine was belived to be the fuel pump there is a anti backflow valve to keep the pressure above 27 so the vehicle starts right up. the dealer changed the fuel pump and it didnt work it ended up being a leaky fuel injector. you can also take off the rail pous some gas in and if any of the injectors leak its bad. if it is a fuel injector you will have to change your oil and oil filter as well gas will be in your oil. i also have a 1995 discovery this cost me a 1000 to have the dealer figure out the problem email me at [email protected] and i can give you some help if needed. it took them 3 weeks to figure out. |
BTDT
| | Posted on Wednesday, June 05, 2002 - 10:33 pm: |
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Just cos the wires etc look fine don't mean a thing. they are due for replacement anyway at 90k so do it.
Did it rain overnight then with some warmth have an increase in humidity try wd 40 |
Todd McArtor (Todd)
| | Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2002 - 10:09 am: |
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Paul, Mike, Jerry, BTDT - All great advice. Thanks. And here's a new twist. I tried it that evening, cranked - nothing. Took out a plug, had the wife crank while I checked spark. Spark good. Then, on second spark check, it fired right up with the plug OUT. Shut it off. Put plug back in, fired up and ran just fine. Started this morning fine too. And BTDT, I remember, it had rained a bit that night, but only very lightly. Seems like I have read that some Discos don't like rain. Wires, plugs, cap and rotor will go in this weekend, for good measure. Should I go Bosch, or OEM only? Lastly, with this new twist, does it still seem like the fuel route, or are wet electrics more likely? I'll perform a fuel pressure test for peace of mind. Thanks again. |
bryan
| | Posted on Thursday, June 06, 2002 - 10:34 am: |
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Go with Beck Arnley cap/rotor, lifetime warranty, and much cheaper than OEM. Just my opinion, but I've been running BA cap/rotor for about 6 months, no problems and like the guy at the auto parts store said, "If they show ANY signs of wear, bring them in and I'll replace them." I told him to expect me about once a year ;-) |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 09:05 pm: |
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just one quick comment...Land Rovers are not a she they are a HE...they are a masculine automobile.... |
Anonymous
| | Posted on Thursday, June 13, 2002 - 09:08 pm: |
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Wrong again if you have owned one for a while its a POS and your infected with its diseases |
Drakosfire
| | Posted on Monday, June 17, 2002 - 05:58 pm: |
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'96 Disco
Wiring loom from fuel pump end. This is the second wiring loom Ive found with a burnt out wire. Always the same one too. Has anybody ever had this problem and how to remedy. The last time it happened I replaced the pup / sender unit and the loom. Lasted less than six months. HELP PLEASE!!
Also does anyone out there have a HiClone fitted to their vehicle? WHere did you place the unit? |
marshall grant
| | Posted on Tuesday, June 25, 2002 - 12:01 am: |
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what happend to my message? |
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