| Author |
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Joe Still
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 08:05 am: | 
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Sunday- temp 95, highway cruise, AC full blast, AC seems to stop suddenly. AC compressor I wonder? Oh well, have it checked tomorrow.
Wait! What if the drive belt broke? That would stop the AC compressor (and ther water pump)! Better check the temp gage-S___! Max indication! Hit Neutral, full hot on AC to supplement radiator, engine off with ignition on to run fans.
Now, what is prognosis of engine damage. Disco 1 95 model with 110k. Never gave any indication of power loss. Wasn't the belt- the expansion tank had blown. Added water and it ran fine- took a while to get enough water in it as it was trying to boil off.
OK- when is hot "OVERHEATED"? |
pjkbrit
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 08:57 am: |
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I guess you will have to drive it and see...you may have been lucky, or you may end up with warped heads and blowing head gaskets which will be fairly obvious. My 94 has been hot a couple of times over the years I had it...was OK
Pete |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 10:55 am: |
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Probably should have left the engine on to continue to circulate coolant without the extreme load of the A/C. Otherwise, you are relying upon thermal syphoning to move the liquid into the heat exchanger. Much more efficient with the pump running if you didn't blow all of the coolant out, which you may well have done in this case.
As to damage, the A/C likely shut down due to overtemp conditions and your observant nature probably saved you from further damage. My Disco (148K miles) has been VERY hot on a few occasions until I learned to not use the A/C. If you caught it soon enough, you probably did no damage. Re-reading your post, mine did it for the same reason. New tanks are cheap and easy to install, although you may need to slightly modify the mountings as mine didn't line up just right-typical Rover tolerances!
How's it run now? |
Joe Still
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 08:22 pm: |
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Thanks for the quick posts! Too soon to tell long term. Ordered the new tank and hoses but won't deliver til Thurs.( I'll suffer driving my 39k miles orig owner RX7 til then- loads of hp keep me from frowning when I drive my Disco uphill). I drove Disco up the driveway after the wrecker unloaded and it started normally but didn't run it over 60 secs. s Will repost Monday 8/12.
Joe |
Joe Still
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 08:31 pm: |
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Paul: As to leaving it running I really wanted to! It was a struggle but I was afraid I had boiled out most of the coolant. Obviously there must have been some fluid to indicate hot- but how much?
Generally I find your posts helpful and well thought out. Several of you on Discoweb like that. Then there are a few that spout prattle they "overheard" from a different problem.
Not that you should worry what others think on the anonymous "net"
Joe |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 06, 2002 - 09:46 pm: |
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Since it ran well off the tow truck you've probably got it made!
Given the circumstances, you were right to have shut it down. The temperature may have risen to the point where the sensor was reading the temperature of the block, or at least to some extent. The temp sensor is pretty high up on the block, on the intake maifold, consequently, it may have been dry.
As for your compliment/comments, thanx, but on the other hand, I sometimes blow it!
Peace,
Paul |
\Mike... (Mpeters)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2002 - 12:02 am: |
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geez- how about trying to avoid running pond water through a system with a split expansion tank and a water pump with aging seals. And also, try not to do that for three or four days straight as you are miles from civilization and only equipped with some jbweld-type efforts to remedy the splitting expansion tank. if you have to do this, do try to stop repeatedly and add more larvae-infested pond water before it completely boils dry every forty minutes and raises the block temp to 210+ degrees, again repeatedly.
ok - not a text-book recommended action, but it CAN happen, and the engine can survive. most likely a fifteen-minute overheat job will not have dramatic affects. do a thorough check of your coolant system, looking for faulty water pump seals, et al, but you are probably far from devastating engine issues.
a single overheating, at least for only a few minutes, will most likely not warp the heads and blow gaskets.
/mike |
Joe Still
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 07, 2002 - 07:42 pm: |
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Thanks Mike! |
Joe Still
| | Posted on Monday, August 12, 2002 - 01:01 pm: |
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Ok. Got the tank in and ran 60 miles with no adverse effects. Seems like bullet was dodged. Had to check level in the tank after cooling to make sure I didn't need to bleed system and sheared the POS plug that's so popular in other posts. Compared with the possibilty of engine damage tho I can smile at the plug.
Anybody know how sensitive or little vehicles are to air bubbles in the cooling system? |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 13, 2002 - 12:41 pm: |
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Joe:
The thermostats on our trucks have a "Jiggle Pin" that allows air to escape while filling, consequently, this isn't the problem it is on some vehicles. Fill slowly, squeeze the upper radiator hose and see if the tank doesn't fill. I haven't had much problem with this, in spite of replacing with a GM thermostat with a tiny hole drilled in it.
Glad you came out OK. With any luck, I'll have a new radiator someday... |
cartner
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 03:01 pm: |
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Pond water is OK as long as you run it through a sock or some t shirt material. but rainwater is better. No minerals. |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 04:16 pm: |
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No minerals in rainwater? What about acid rain?
Rainwater often has far more bad stuff than tap water depending upon the locale. If you're in an area with a lot of particulate matter in the air, this material is picked up by the rainwater and precipitated to the ground.
When it rains around coal-fired power plants, the rainwater is either black or grey.
Tap water would likely be better than anything other than deionized, distilled, or reverse osmosis treated water.
Paul |
Leslie N. Bright (Leslie)
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 14, 2002 - 04:25 pm: |
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lol....
tap water here is hard water, and I mean HARD water.... will kill a water heater element in a year....
-L |
Paul T. Schram (Paulschram)
| | Posted on Thursday, August 15, 2002 - 12:26 pm: |
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Well Leslie, there are exceptions to everything. Is this municipal water, or a private well? Most municipalities by virtue of the Safe Drinking Water act are held to relatively low hardness levels. Surface water is usually better than well water, but surface water varies far more seasonally than well waters.
Softening, puts a bunch of sodium into the water. Deionzing allows formation of bacteria, Reverse osmosis is expensive and sensitive to variations in feedwater, Distillation is energy intensive.
No easy answers or cheap solutions.
Isn't Bluegill a hydrogeologist?
Personally, I try to avoid water (remember what WC Fields said about drinking water!)-I drink beer instead!
Peace,
Paul |
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