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  #1  
Old 04-03-2015, 08:53 AM
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I have been wanting some extra light out back for a while, esp since my back windows are tinted, and while I had seen pictures of some installs I liked, I hadn't seen much detail on the forums about them. Easiest place for these is usually a roof rack, but I don't have a roof rack, so I had to come up with something else. I went with the Rigid SR-M backup light kit. Lifetime warranty, excellent wiring harness and install kit, and I found them for a good price on Amazon. I won't be covering the installation of the wiring, because it's so damn easy to do.

Initially, I mounted them underneath the rear bumper, using some existing holes on either side of the hitch. They were probably tucked high enough away that they would have avoided trail damage, but the spread of light wasn't what I was looking for. They needed to come up higher. At first I thought of just mounting them to my bumper, but it's plastic and not long for this world, and the access underneath for affixing the nut to the light's bolt was tight. Some people have mounted a light on the rear door handle, but I had a pair, and their wiring harness is rather thick. This left me with the D-pillars.

I have seen some smaller lights installed right below the factory taillight housings, but the SR-Ms are much larger, and getting the cable to run under the tail lamp housing would have required trimming both the light and the lower portion of the opening. Plus, looked pretty stupid (see first picture, idk how to get the pictures to post within my text here). The nice thing about these D-pillars though is that they have an ABSURD amount of room inside them. I figured out I was able to reach my arm all the way to the bottom of the inside, meaning I could easily put the nut on the back of the bolt for the light. I popped the small bumper corner cap off (remove the single phillips head screw on the side and then just pull straight back) and found even more room back there. Bingo.

I checked clearances, theorized how I would run the wires, measured where to center the hole, and started mutilating my bodywork. Hole was drilled an inch above the corner cap, centered widthwise on the panel. I recommend starting with a 5/32" bit, then moving to a 1/4", and the final diameter needed is 5/16". I bolted the light up using a 13mm wrench and the supplied hardware (bolt through the light fitting, washer on either side of the mounting surface, lock washer+nut on the back end), plus an O-ring just as extra insulation. I cut a small divot in the bumper cap to accommodate for the light's wire. It had to be off center, as the center of the cap has a boxed in portion where the plastic tabs mount. From underneath, I pushed the harness connectors through the very conveniently located hole right at the corner, and there was plenty of room to tuck the large connector out of the way. After that, just slap the cap back on, zip tie the excess wire length underneath, and you're all done.

The Rigid lights are very bright and give a good spread from this position. One more advantage of moving them up from underneath is that I could use them as work lights in a pinch, although really a higher mount (roof rack) would be more ideal for that purpose. Best feature of the Rigids is their high quality wiring harness, IMHO. Came with a relay, three position switch (On/Off/On in Reverse), and a VERY long wiring loom already jacketed in flexible plastic. Only challenge I had was finding a switch location I could live with (ended up putting them on the left side of the center console.)
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Under taillamp mounting.jpg (180.7 KB, 114 views)
File Type: jpg FInal mounting position.jpg (187.2 KB, 101 views)
File Type: jpg Bumper cap removal.jpg (189.9 KB, 106 views)

Last edited by Maximumwarp; 04-03-2015 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 04-03-2015, 09:45 AM
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Second batch of photos
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File Type: jpg Wiring channel cut into cap.jpg (192.3 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg Space behind bumper cap.jpg (198.1 KB, 63 views)
File Type: jpg Connector tucked underneath cap on pass side.jpg (182.2 KB, 79 views)

Last edited by Maximumwarp; 04-03-2015 at 10:55 AM.
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  #3  
Old 04-03-2015, 11:00 AM
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And last few. Final pic shows where I installed the switch, on the left side of the center console. The second switch is for the front lights.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Install complete.jpg (190.3 KB, 73 views)
File Type: jpg Finished product.jpg (191.0 KB, 95 views)
File Type: jpg Switches installed on console.jpg (176.0 KB, 104 views)
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:43 PM
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Nice write up. I recently installed these same lights but rack mounted them. I also found a nice spot for the switch between the mirror controls and steering wheel.
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File Type: jpg aux rear switch.jpg (56.6 KB, 83 views)
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Old 04-03-2015, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by STLGrrover View Post
Nice write up. I recently installed these same lights but rack mounted them. I also found a nice spot for the switch between the mirror controls and steering wheel.
That's a great spot, nice and out of the way. The PO had put a switch there for the janky old Hellas he installed, and he boogered that area up pretty good, so i needed a new spot. Plus, I brought my wires through the firewall on the passenger side, and I didn't have quite enough cable to get to the other side of the steering wheel.
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Old 01-02-2017, 01:08 PM
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That's a great spot for the light. I put this one before LED's were popular.
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File Type: jpg 15219601_10157787769670564_3630265471678229385_n.jpg (92.4 KB, 29 views)
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maximumwarp View Post
That's a great spot, nice and out of the way. The PO had put a switch there for the janky old Hellas he installed, and he boogered that area up pretty good, so i needed a new spot. Plus, I brought my wires through the firewall on the passenger side, and I didn't have quite enough cable to get to the other side of the steering wheel.

I had my light bar and rock lights wired to similar round switches. I mounted them to the change drawer below the clock and door locks. You can fit 3 across and it still slides out and lets you access the wiring if needed.

Im in the process of upgrading all my lights and accessories to a stand alone fuse block, so I figured I would upgrade to some Carling switches while I was at it. It took some time with the dremel, but I think its going to work just fine. I know someone here was selling a direct fit bezel for the same thing I did, but it was $50. Im into this for $15 and few hours of time.
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Old 01-02-2017, 10:14 PM
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I have my CB setup exactly like yours except its hanging on the drivers side ashtray! lol
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K-rover View Post
I have my CB setup exactly like yours except its hanging on the drivers side ashtray! lol
I have mine on to the driver's side when I'm using it. All you have to do switch the trays.
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HOLY SHIT!!!! You guys are crazy!!!! What's next? Salt malts served through a meat straw?????
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:24 PM
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http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1854748

You can download it and print it out of whatever, it just works a whole lot better when made out of fused nylon that the forsale one is
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Old 01-03-2017, 08:33 PM
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Robert, that is ingenious.
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf View Post
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1854748

You can download it and print it out of whatever, it just works a whole lot better when made out of fused nylon that the forsale one is
I really thought about getting this! But Im cheap and I like to tinker... maybe I need to invest in a 3d printer???
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Old 01-03-2017, 10:26 PM
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its designed to snap in, and printed abs doesn't have a very high fatigue strength compared to the nylon. It'll snap in once or twice, then possible crack on the tabs. Kind of a bummer after 8 hours of printing
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