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  #26  
Old 04-21-2008, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atholmotorcar
FTR, you can get a cylinder for under $200 without the interlock feature.
Maybe cheaper from Will T.
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  #27  
Old 04-24-2008, 01:40 PM
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JCooper,
did you use that E-bay setup from MotorSports?
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  #28  
Old 04-24-2008, 07:57 PM
amschnellsten amschnellsten is offline
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just fixed mine. I pulled it apart and removed the steering lock, push in feature and rekeyed it to my door key which was different. thanks for the chisel trick. works great!!
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  #29  
Old 05-21-2008, 02:35 PM
jammin jammin is offline
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I did this a while back. I used 3 toggles and a momentary switch.

According to the wiring diagram, there are 4 circuits, to go with the 3 "on" positions in the ignition (I = acc, II = power, III = start).

--The accessory circuit (green/white wire, for radio/etc) works in positions I and II.
--One power circuit (yellow, for... well, lots of stuff) works in positions II and III.
--The other power circuit (white wire, for windows/wipers/mirrors /etc) only works in position II.
--The starting circuit (white/red wire) only works in position III.

So for mine, I just put a separate switch in for each of those circuits:
Switch 1 = Accessories (radio, mostly)
Switch 2 = Starting power
Switch 3 = Other stuff, like windows and wipers
Button = start

Since the ignition cuts out both the accessory circuit and one of the power circuits in position III (starting), I usually just flip switch 2 then hit the button to start. I could probably leave the other two off if I felt like it, but usually turn them all on after starting. (Though once or twice my wife has been puzzled as to why the windows aren't working... turns out I forgot to turn switch 3 on.)

If I want to run the radio and nothing else (like at the drive-in), it's switch 1. And so on...

For the wiring, I put a large 5 position molex connector on the wires after cutting them away from the lock cylinder. Like this:

http://www.molex.com/cmc_upload/0/00...5C-Rec_ISO.gif

Then I wired my switches into a matching connector, as if they were some sort of "module". I ended up binding the switches together into a block with electrical tape to make them easier to work with, and ended up leaving them that way. (I consider it temporary, but it holds together surprisingly well.)

For now, the "switch module" is sitting right on top of the steering column, and works great. I haven't decided where exactly to put them permanently yet. (Somewhere else for sure... they are pretty conspicuous there.) All I'll have to do is fab up an extension cable with the right molex connectors, route it, and then unplug/plugin the module in the new location.

Now, it'd probably be overkill to go out and get molex pins/housing/crimper/etc just for this, but I find them handy for lots of things, so I happened to have them already.



Looking at Chapman's 2-switch design to see which circuit he has on which switch, it looks like one switch has the ACC stuff, and both power circuits on the other switch. (Which is nice... my 3 switch version might duplicate the cylinder switch more closely, but is perhaps silly when you think about what it is doing and how it gets used.)

But I do think he has the description mixed up a bit...

If the first switch has the white & yellow wires, it would be ignition power, not ACC.
If the second switch has the green wire, it would be ACC power, not ignition.

Of course it doesn't really matter, it all works the same. But if you wanted to mount your switches in a particular order, it might save you 2 minutes worth of switching them back around.




I still need to fix the cylinder, though. It's starting to stick pretty bad. (I originally bypassed it because of an electrical issue, where power would remain on even with the key off and removed. Weird.)

On one of my other cars, it was possible to remove the cylinder itself from the casing (without any bashing or chiseling), pop all of the pins out of the lock, and put it back in. After that it was smooth as silk, with no sticking. Is something like that possible with this one, or would that even address the sticking? (I guess that'd depend on where the jamming in mechanism takes place.)
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  #30  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammin
On one of my other cars, it was possible to remove the cylinder itself from the casing (without any bashing or chiseling), pop all of the pins out of the lock, and put it back in. After that it was smooth as silk, with no sticking. Is something like that possible with this one, or would that even address the sticking? (I guess that'd depend on where the jamming in mechanism takes place.)
Yes, I did this. See http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showp...5&postcount=14, since my Internet connection is down at home, the server is not available (send me a private email if you want to see the pictures).
It does require a little bit of chiseling (from memory: to remove the ball that holds the cylinder in the housing ????), but nothing you can not do with only a flat screwdriver. Takes probably one hour to undo the entire mechanism, take it apart, grind whatever does not look good and re-install it.
Obviously.... you could just remove all the pins and never have it stick ever again (but then, any key/screw driver would start it. Not worst than the switch setup! ;-) ).
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  #31  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptschram
It is much less brutal to use a sharp chisel and gently drive the shear bolts to the point where they can be spun out by hand.
Ditto to that, takes no time and is clean. At first, I started drilling one of the bolt to provide a place to put the chisel, but did not do it on the second bolt and it worked great.
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  #32  
Old 06-29-2009, 10:36 AM
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Alabama Rover Alabama Rover is offline
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I know this is old, Just wanted to thank Dan for his great write-up. Followed his directions and everything worked great.
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  #33  
Old 12-21-2009, 06:59 PM
WalterKurtz WalterKurtz is offline
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this mod worked well and went together with no issues. Im currently running the switches/button to a box via a wire harness which is temporally Velcro-ed to the dash. Do any of you guys have pics of your setup mounted nicely in the vehicle?
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  #34  
Old 12-22-2009, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalterKurtz
this mod worked well and went together with no issues. Im currently running the switches/button to a box via a wire harness which is temporally Velcro-ed to the dash. Do any of you guys have pics of your setup mounted nicely in the vehicle?
or pictures of the entire process would be good
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  #35  
Old 08-02-2010, 04:48 PM
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DiscoKids DiscoKids is offline
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how do you stick the key in if you pry the entire cylinder lock off? anyone find out the wires to work with too unlock the steering wheel? after you do the wiring for the switches?
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  #36  
Old 11-30-2010, 02:32 AM
Spudisco7
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great write up, I had my one and only key break in my ignition. So i wired two 30 amp toggles and a 60 amp momentary switch. Works great and only cost about $30 instead of $600 for a new ignition. I ended up taking my broke key to a locksmith 3 keys that work in my door great for $11.
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  #37  
Old 05-25-2018, 10:17 PM
cdmbrennan cdmbrennan is offline
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Man, I love Discoweb. I followed this procedure 12 years ago, and then was able to find this post again when I needed to rewire my ignition today. Have to admit- my wiring back then was janky...don't know how it lasted as long as it did.

Thanks D Chapman for the awesome write-up in 2007!
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