Thanks for the suggestions every one. I have looked at the QT ones but the price of the safari gard ones with that sale is very appealing to me. I will look at the QT ones some more and see what else is out there, but either way it looks like weld on is the way to go. Thanks
weld on vs. bolt on diff gaurds
- Thread starter nickb857
- Start date
D
D Chapman
Guest
Here is a pic of the Rovertym diff guard. I think he makes a D2 guard, or may be the D1 guard fits both, I'm not real sure........ http://www.funtigo.com/virginia4x4?g=740603
My solution for the bolt on diff guards on my D1 was to clean the diff housing good and spraypaint it black. then put the diff guard on while the paint was still tacky. It's not welded on but have you ever tried to open a window that was painted shut? My new RRover has weld-on diff guards just because it was easier to make them.
S
Snwbord24
Guest
I know the rear QT is a direct bolt on but for the front you have to weld a tab on the diff housing so you can bolt it on. I really like these but I'm waiting for Rob Stansell to get his front one on so I can check it out before I get them.
My vote goes to bolt-on. I've seen several different trucks with welded diff guards that took a hit and caused the axle housing to crack at the weld. Given that there are so few welded diff guards out there, I think this is a serious problem.
The bolted diff guards can come loose, that's true. A hard hit can shock loose the diff guard from the axle. But I don't think this is a serious problem. The front diff guard may come loose, but it's held onto the vehicle with by the panhard rod. If the front diff guard does pop loose, you'll hear it clanging and you won't actually lose it.
The rear diff guard can pop loose and become lost. To avoid this, simply attach a tether between the diff guard and the axle. Even a zip tie would work. If you want to go Uptown, you can get some stainless wire rope and make up a super nice tether. I don't think it's necessary though.
If you hear a clanging after a hard hit, just stop and reattach the diff guard. This beats trying to fix a cracked axle housing, at least for me.
The tether is also less intrusive to the vehicle than tack welding. That has never made sense to me either. I would like to be able readily to remove the diff guards for maintenance if I wanted. Lots of junk gets stuck in the diff guard that doesn't come out with a hard stream of water or a shot of compressed air shot between the diff guard and the axle pan.
The bolted diff guards can come loose, that's true. A hard hit can shock loose the diff guard from the axle. But I don't think this is a serious problem. The front diff guard may come loose, but it's held onto the vehicle with by the panhard rod. If the front diff guard does pop loose, you'll hear it clanging and you won't actually lose it.
The rear diff guard can pop loose and become lost. To avoid this, simply attach a tether between the diff guard and the axle. Even a zip tie would work. If you want to go Uptown, you can get some stainless wire rope and make up a super nice tether. I don't think it's necessary though.
If you hear a clanging after a hard hit, just stop and reattach the diff guard. This beats trying to fix a cracked axle housing, at least for me.
The tether is also less intrusive to the vehicle than tack welding. That has never made sense to me either. I would like to be able readily to remove the diff guards for maintenance if I wanted. Lots of junk gets stuck in the diff guard that doesn't come out with a hard stream of water or a shot of compressed air shot between the diff guard and the axle pan.
K
Kyle
Guest
I concur , I was one of the leakers. Ironically enough that was the first run with any diff guard at all. Ihad no issues prior..
Z
zeeto
Guest
weld it on. take your time and weld a small part and let it sit, and over and over.
it's definately going to be more stout than a bolt on...the first time i saw bolt on's so widely used was when i bought my disco. seems like everyone uses those instead of welding...
it's definately going to be more stout than a bolt on...the first time i saw bolt on's so widely used was when i bought my disco. seems like everyone uses those instead of welding...
K
Kyle
Guest
Um yeah,,,,,,, Then take your time later and weld it up again... That damn housing is like a sheet of paper... The only reason I welded mine to begin with is that I was used to 9" housings and they arent made out of paper..
A word of caution on the QT guards too. I had the rear one for a while, until I sheared one of the bolts off where it bolts to the bottom of the diff housing. Must have happened when the truck shifted to one side on rocks and the force on the guard was too much. also, the design allows for stick and limbs to get caught between the guard and the diff.
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Snwbord24
Guest
For Disco1, I'm digging the Mantec diff guard:
The Mantec diff guard matches the profile of the diff pan almost perfectly. You can hardly tell it's even there. No thongs on the axle. No Elephant Man action. No nothing. It's just super clean. It's pure stealth:
I also think the bell-shaped curves of the Mantec diff guard make it very strong.
The only problem with the Mantec is that there is no front/rear distinction. The Mantec fits only the front. The rear axle's fill plug is considerably lower than the front axle's fill plug, so if you want to fit a Mantec to your rear axle, you must be willing to deepen the half-moon cutout for the fill plug. I don't think this is a big deal but just be aware of it.
Also, don't confuse front and rear diff guards. There is a certain someone here who has a welded diff guard (eeeeek!) and he mounted a rear diff guard on his front axle:
Of course the names will be withheld to protect the guilty.
The Mantec diff guard matches the profile of the diff pan almost perfectly. You can hardly tell it's even there. No thongs on the axle. No Elephant Man action. No nothing. It's just super clean. It's pure stealth:
I also think the bell-shaped curves of the Mantec diff guard make it very strong.
The only problem with the Mantec is that there is no front/rear distinction. The Mantec fits only the front. The rear axle's fill plug is considerably lower than the front axle's fill plug, so if you want to fit a Mantec to your rear axle, you must be willing to deepen the half-moon cutout for the fill plug. I don't think this is a big deal but just be aware of it.
Also, don't confuse front and rear diff guards. There is a certain someone here who has a welded diff guard (eeeeek!) and he mounted a rear diff guard on his front axle:
Of course the names will be withheld to protect the guilty.
This certain unnamed person also mounted his SD11 steering damper backward, so that water would pool inside the dust sleeve:
Drip. Pool. Drip. Pool.
I'm digging the tires though. Gotta love the tires.
Drip. Pool. Drip. Pool.
I'm digging the tires though. Gotta love the tires.
I'm not into thongs either. Doesn't that thong get covered with shit and skid marks? Not attractive at all. I prefer regular panties.