weld on vs. bolt on diff gaurds
- Thread starter nickb857
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K
Kyle
Guest
LOL , what a bastard !!!!! The diff guard was all I had the night before departure so that bitch got nailed on. The shock . I dont care about that catching water thing , I like the look of it on that way..... That Diff guard actually fell off the rear of Findlays truck lol
I also use the Mantec diff guards and another plus is the 6mm (1/4") thickness which is a little more than most.
John is correct on the rears not fitting as well unless drain hole opened up. I half-assed the rear by mounting at angle to clear the drain. Rear has popped off a couple times and front never due to panhard. You will definitely hear it.
LOL-I remember when rear guard popped off on John Bull and Paul VKD came up to me holding it stating (genteel British accent) "I believe this is yours".
John is correct on the rears not fitting as well unless drain hole opened up. I half-assed the rear by mounting at angle to clear the drain. Rear has popped off a couple times and front never due to panhard. You will definitely hear it.
LOL-I remember when rear guard popped off on John Bull and Paul VKD came up to me holding it stating (genteel British accent) "I believe this is yours".
"If you want to go Uptown, you can get some stainless wire rope and make up a super nice tether. I don't think it's necessary though."
Hey!
That tether might be the nicest thing on my whole truck.
Sleeved stainless with aluminum ferrules baby.
Hey!
That tether might be the nicest thing on my whole truck.
Sleeved stainless with aluminum ferrules baby.
Just wondering but, the QTs look like they only protect the area infront of the ring gear. Anyone get a rock on the diff face on either side of the guard yet? Just wondering since it looks like you could still mess up part of the diff face with those things on..
D
D Chapman
Guest
I think ya'll are making a good case that bolt-on's are better than weld-on's to the effect of creating a hole in the diff....But to say that a bolt-on is more common than a weld-on is just not right. Yea, maybe on a Rover, maybe, but look at the many other types of trucks. Many diff housings are paper thin....And more Stealth?LOL...
My vote is for bolt on
For all of the reasons mentioned above (Cracked welds, torn housing, rust, inability to easily remove them)
For all of the reasons mentioned above (Cracked welds, torn housing, rust, inability to easily remove them)
I opted for the bolt on Southdowns as well, and yeah, they look like yellow underwear. I wasn't comfy with the idea of some muffler shop hack burning thru my diffs and having the dealer say to me later that the install was the culprit. And my welding skills would be best described as "for emergency use only"!
I don't see me welding anything onto the truck for at least the length of the original waranty period.
I don't see me welding anything onto the truck for at least the length of the original waranty period.
D Chapman said:
Yes, stealth. I've seen pics of your truck and I can tell that you're into having your mods show. Most people are like this, so you're in the majority. However, I prefer to hide my mods as much as I can. The Mantec diff guard matches the shape of the diff pan more closely than any other diff guard that I have seen. That's one of the reasons I like it so much.
i had these mammer jammers on my old disco and painted em black. i thought they looked pretty stealth.
http://www.roverparts.com/ProductLi...=D1&PerPage=1&ListType=DETAIL&PartNumber=9580
Fit well too.
Somehow i remember them costing way less than that, like $80 each. but that was some time ago.
I'll poblably go with those again.
Rob
http://www.roverparts.com/ProductLi...=D1&PerPage=1&ListType=DETAIL&PartNumber=9580
Fit well too.
Somehow i remember them costing way less than that, like $80 each. but that was some time ago.
I'll poblably go with those again.
Rob
D
D Chapman
Guest
johnlee said:
Yea, I caught rumor that you ran HD axles and stock drive flanges because it was more "stealth". Form of function huh....
D
D Chapman
Guest
"What would you rather have?"
You still have not answered my question Dan, why do you opine the oem flanges should not be used with HD axles? just because item a is visibly more substantial than item b does not mean item a is unsuitable - case in point; why would you need a 12" I beam to sustain the load that a 6" beam can carry?
To answer your question, I am using the HD flange - etch primered and painted black.
Bruno.
You still have not answered my question Dan, why do you opine the oem flanges should not be used with HD axles? just because item a is visibly more substantial than item b does not mean item a is unsuitable - case in point; why would you need a 12" I beam to sustain the load that a 6" beam can carry?
To answer your question, I am using the HD flange - etch primered and painted black.
Bruno.
D
D Chapman
Guest
Bruno said:
Your right, but why risk it? I'm sure it's not a matter of money with John. To use a part just because it's more "stealth" seems silly to me. Would you rather have overbuilt axles, or good enough to get by axles?
As far as painting the HD flanges black, I don't blame you, they are a little too "bling bling".
K
Kyle
Guest
Actually , it is a bad idea to run the factory flange with the HD axles. The Axle will eat the flange worse then they eat the MD flanges... Thats much worse then running your Dampner backwards.. Unless ofcourse you are running wet hubs.. The the spline gets sufficient lube to prevent them from being eaten..
Unless ofcourse you are running wet hubs.. The the spline gets sufficient lube to prevent them from being eaten..I must disagree. I've seen lots of peened Maxi-Drive flanges but not factory flanges. My drive flanges are still as good as new and all of the peening is on the halfshaft splines. I'm convinced the Maxi-Drive flanges are much softer than the factory flanges are.
The Maxi-Drive flanges are a press fit onto the halfshafts, but this quickly disappears. In fact, Ho's old Maxi-Drive flanges had more backlash in them than my set-up (Maxi-Drive rears with factory drive flanges).
The Maxi-Drive flanges are a press fit onto the halfshafts, but this quickly disappears. In fact, Ho's old Maxi-Drive flanges had more backlash in them than my set-up (Maxi-Drive rears with factory drive flanges).
K
Kyle
Guest
Yes , this may be true , but when you get the MD flange and use the proper loctite and then press it all together the muching should stop completely... THis may not be true but it is the rumor. Thos stockers are getting munched , you know they are... And who the hell hides mods anyway ? That aint right...