I was just saying if his is good, why spend a bunch of money on a different unit versus just a few dollars to reseal it. It’s just an oil leak.$500 might be a little optimistic for a rebuild.
I agree as long as it doesn’t show obvious wear on inspection, which may not be obvious until removal. If it does, it’s super helpful and economical to have one ready to go to swap in. I recently purchased one (90,000 miles) from a well know seller of used parts here for about $300 including shipping with a lifetime replacement warranty. I put some new seals in it before I brought the D1 into the shop, brought it in the shop, pulled the old one, swapped the new / used one in. Bing, bam, boom, back on the road in less than 3 hours.I was just saying if his is good, why spend a bunch of money on a different unit versus just a few dollars to reseal it. It’s just an oil leak.
I recently purchased one from a well know seller of used parts here for about $300 including shipping with a lifetime replacement warranty. I put some new seals in it before I brought the D1 into the shop, brought it in the shop, pulled the old one, swapped the new / used one in. Bing, bam, boom, back on the road in less than 3 hours.
I can’t really estimate the time it took for the first R&R on a D1. It was definitely more than 3 hours. Second time, experience being a great teacher, it was 3 hours. And, I have a lift and transmission jack. I have only done it twice. I’m sure someone more experienced and skilled than I am could do it much faster than that.Pray tell your tricks for such a swift R&R.
Probably one of the most important tips I can give you is to make note of each mounting bolt location. There are two different sizes and if you put a longer bolt where a short one belongs, you can destroy the gears.Pray tell your tricks for such a swift R&R
Don't know what the kit covers, my guess would be the yoke seals and maybe the side cover.I bought the full reseal kit from AB, did the reseal myself, and it still leaks all over.
Interesting, on the OPs first question, this vendor does offer a rebuilt transfer case. $699 on saleSo I don't want to hijack this thread but.. Looking around I came upon this. Don't believe I've seen anything like it. Anyone have any experience with them. I would wonder if they are reliable.
I think most times if oil is coming out between the t case and the trans its the o ring on the counter shaft. That and the front seal getting all jacked up because the output shaft extension was left on the trans. On the Disco 2 it was really easy to reseal both of those cause the shift cables give you some room to move the t case back and set it on that crossmember.I bought the full reseal kit from AB, did the reseal myself, and it still leaks all over. Thinking of switching from Mobile1 to non-synthetic just to see if that helps, but the biggest thing is to try to not worry about it too much. "If it's leaking, you know it's not dry!"
I would love to have an underdrive, but the prices for any of them are always outrageous. Even the Maxi-Drive gear is stupid money for what it is.So I don't want to hijack this thread but.. Looking around I came upon this. Don't believe I've seen anything like it. Anyone have any experience with them. I would wonder if they are reliable.
IDK, if you look solely at the initial purchase price, yeah seems steep. But to me, things like this need to be averaged out. Keep your rig for 10 years and you're at $300 a year. Is that worth it? If I wheeled a lot then yes, well worth it. If I go wheeling twice a year maybe not so much. Or, if I sell the rig two years later maybe a questionable buy.I would love to have an underdrive, but the prices for any of them are always outrageous. Even the Maxi-Drive gear is stupid money for what it is.