So you're saying the ball joints aren't too big of a deal at least?
I just beat them into submission with that 4lb hammer - no special tools needed.
So you're saying the ball joints aren't too big of a deal at least?
The trick is the just go straight for the sawzall. Those new angle grinder material blades go through the whole arm, bolt and all, in a couple minutes.The nuts and bolts are huge and grade 10.9, so your muscles and equipment are less effective in overpowering them if they become seized. There isn't a lot of room to get big brute force tools in either. The rear nuts in particular are right next to the cats. Also, the bolts run through bushings that make a perfect rust trap with little way to get penetrant or heat inside.
Just my .02, those issues you refer to seem pretty minor. A solid weekend could knock all those out may be aside from the parking brake issue. Consider taking care of those little things and you’ll have a solid, paid off very comfortable and capable truck that’s hard to compete with. I have friends that have 400k on theirs. Mine has 180k and prior to our trip across the country, I dropped about $1k into little stuff like yours above like cowling etc. It towed our 32ft camper (5200lbs dry) across the country no issues. It’s also done 3 x cross country trips and 2x seaboard west and east. I think you’d be hard pressed to find something as reliable with performance for the money.
Here in the rust belt this is what we use for control arm bolts.The nuts and bolts are huge and grade 10.9, so your muscles and equipment are less effective in overpowering them if they become seized. There isn't a lot of room to get big brute force tools in either. The rear nuts in particular are right next to the cats. Also, the bolts run through bushings that make a perfect rust trap with little way to get penetrant or heat inside.
Since the first time I replaced it I never put this bolt back. Compressor and bracket have been solidly in place for 5+ years now. Can change compressor in about 15 minutes nowYet another job that sucks - removing the air compressor. his could be a nightmare on a rusty truck.
View attachment 64482
That top bolt is a pain in the dick to get to, and when you finally do you’re fervently ratcheting a pathetic 10 degrees a turn. Who designs this shit?
For that top bolt I use a long 1/4 “ extension and a swivel 10mm socket. When you’re putting in the AMK compressor that setup doesn’t get on the bolt. Then I just get on it with a ratcheting box end wrench.Since the first time I replaced it I never put this bolt back. Compressor and bracket have been solidly in place for 5+ years now. Can change compressor in about 15 minutes now
Now if you want to talk about shit jobs. First is putting a transmission in a LR3 / LR4 / or any Sport from that platform. That is by far the worst job I’ve ever experienced.
A close second is the park brake actuator. That job sucks a little dick too
For that top bolt I use a long 1/4 “ extension and a swivel 10mm socket. When you’re putting in the AMK compressor that setup doesn’t get on the bolt. Then I just get on it with a ratcheting box end wrench.
I start that bolt first and let the compressor hang from it, then I just rotate it up into position. It’s a good job and we charge 2.5 hours with diag and software. Control arms are juice too. We charge 4.5 or 5 hours plus the alignment. I can usually get those big bolts pushed out with my air hammer. I just lean in to it and first a cloud of rust comes out of it and then it flys out of there.
Both jobs are considered juice
You keep calling it a reverse light but the picture you posted is a 3rd stop lamp. Those suck so bad I call it body work and send it to a body shop.On my Hitachi I don't see how you'd get anything other than a spanner on it. The pump is less than an inch away from the head and it's tucked way up there. If it were rusted, I don't see how you'd get at it without cutting the whole bracket/pump off with a Sawzall.
Have you done a reverse light? Did I miss some pro trick?
As I recall its glued down or something like that. When I did one I think I heated the thinig up with a heat gun and pry it up off the glue. But to be really honest I probably did one around '06 and that was my last one. Anything thats gotta get dug out of the roof like that is body work.On my Hitachi I don't see how you'd get anything other than a spanner on it. The pump is less than an inch away from the head and it's tucked way up there. If it were rusted, I don't see how you'd get at it without cutting the whole bracket/pump off with a Sawzall.
Have you done a 3rd stop light? Did I miss some pro trick?
As I recall its glued down or something like that. When I did one I think I heated the thinig up with a heat gun and pry it up off the glue. But to be really honest I probably did one around '06 and that was my last one. Anything thats gotta get dug out of the roof like that is body work.
I think you’re talking about the vent. It has a silencer on the end of it.What is that large open black tube that terminates into the compressor housing?
I think a good plan for getting it off the roof would be a cable like glass guys use to cut that same sealant holding windshields in.Yes, a very strong RTV, and liberal use of it.