LR3 Fatigue

MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,223
161
LI, NY
The nuts and bolts are huge and grade 10.9, so your muscles and equipment are less effective in overpowering them if they become seized. There isn't a lot of room to get big brute force tools in either. The rear nuts in particular are right next to the cats. Also, the bolts run through bushings that make a perfect rust trap with little way to get penetrant or heat inside.
The trick is the just go straight for the sawzall. Those new angle grinder material blades go through the whole arm, bolt and all, in a couple minutes.

My truck is from Colorado, and the bolts in mine came out super easy. I dumped about 1lb of anti seize on the new ones.
 
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StangGT5

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Feb 4, 2019
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Atlanta, GA
Just my .02, those issues you refer to seem pretty minor. A solid weekend could knock all those out may be aside from the parking brake issue. Consider taking care of those little things and you’ll have a solid, paid off very comfortable and capable truck that’s hard to compete with. I have friends that have 400k on theirs. Mine has 180k and prior to our trip across the country, I dropped about $1k into little stuff like yours above like cowling etc. It towed our 32ft camper (5200lbs dry) across the country no issues. It’s also done 3 x cross country trips and 2x seaboard west and east. I think you’d be hard pressed to find something as reliable with performance for the money.

I have to remind myself of this very thing when I consider selling my LR4. At 85K miles, I feel it has a long life left in it (knock on wood). It took over daily-driver duty for a 04 D2 with 170K on it. I hope it would last as long as the D2. I have taken the LR4 on long trips without issue and it just does everything you could want better than any other SUV I have driven. I recently picked up a V8 Raptor and assumed I'd want the LR4 gone to clear a parking spot. I had to fly out to get the Raptor to avoid the crazy mark ups, which meant leaving the LR4 at the airport and picking up the LR4 when I got back. In the drive between the airport and my house I changed my mind. Every time I think "Man I need to clear up some space by selling the LR4" I just drive it. Maybe things will eventually get too cramped, but I know I'd regret selling it. Even if it didn't have the HD package it'd still be an awesome Swiss army knife.

OP,

If you like the LR3 but are getting burnt out, check out a lower mileage LR4. I had a couple LR3s and thought they were great. I just never fell in love with the platform until I got a LR4. I have had two now (the first was totalled by an idiot) and the added power, refinement and driving experience is fantastic. They can have their own issues, but I think its an overall wash against the LR3 (trans in the LR3 vs tensions in the LR4, etc.).
 
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ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
3,919
458
Darien Gap
Another job that sucks - rear top brake light replacement. Mine was cracked, leaking water inside, and generally looked shit.

29CDD91E-A2F3-4101-B1DD-14D5C9FEE09F.jpeg

The only way to remove it is by smashing it into pieces with a hammer and then sliding a razor knife under the perimeter seam. The factory RTV is some alien adhesive technology that does not give up easily. You will not simply pry the light off the body. Of course you’ll do this in full sun on a black car and on the first day temperatures reach near 100.

5C7A8CEF-12B3-4BB0-BF2F-7F3FF236B6D7.jpeg
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,919
458
Darien Gap
Yet another job that sucks - removing the air compressor. Would be a nightmare on a rusty truck.

0318F803-7079-46C8-AC45-58801E8D1D63.jpeg
That top bolt is a pain in the dick to get to, and when you finally do you’re fervently ratcheting a pathetic 10 degrees a turn. Who designs this shit?
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,733
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Northern Illinois
The nuts and bolts are huge and grade 10.9, so your muscles and equipment are less effective in overpowering them if they become seized. There isn't a lot of room to get big brute force tools in either. The rear nuts in particular are right next to the cats. Also, the bolts run through bushings that make a perfect rust trap with little way to get penetrant or heat inside.
Here in the rust belt this is what we use for control arm bolts.sawzall.jpg
 
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Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,493
211
Alabama
Yet another job that sucks - removing the air compressor. his could be a nightmare on a rusty truck.

View attachment 64482
That top bolt is a pain in the dick to get to, and when you finally do you’re fervently ratcheting a pathetic 10 degrees a turn. Who designs this shit?
Since the first time I replaced it I never put this bolt back. Compressor and bracket have been solidly in place for 5+ years now. Can change compressor in about 15 minutes now
 
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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Since the first time I replaced it I never put this bolt back. Compressor and bracket have been solidly in place for 5+ years now. Can change compressor in about 15 minutes now
For that top bolt I use a long 1/4 “ extension and a swivel 10mm socket. When you’re putting in the AMK compressor that setup doesn’t get on the bolt. Then I just get on it with a ratcheting box end wrench.
I start that bolt first and let the compressor hang from it, then I just rotate it up into position. It’s a good job and we charge 2.5 hours with diag and software. Control arms are juice too. We charge 4.5 or 5 hours plus the alignment. I can usually get those big bolts pushed out with my air hammer. I just lean in to it and first a cloud of rust comes out of it and then it flys out of there.
Both jobs are considered juice
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
7,733
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Northern Illinois
Now if you want to talk about shit jobs. First is putting a transmission in a LR3 / LR4 / or any Sport from that platform. That is by far the worst job I’ve ever experienced.
A close second is the park brake actuator. That job sucks a little dick too
 

ERover82

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Nov 26, 2011
3,919
458
Darien Gap
Now if you want to talk about shit jobs. First is putting a transmission in a LR3 / LR4 / or any Sport from that platform. That is by far the worst job I’ve ever experienced.
A close second is the park brake actuator. That job sucks a little dick too

Yeah, that's one of those jobs that sours me on modern LRs and lack of owner maintainability.
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,919
458
Darien Gap
For that top bolt I use a long 1/4 “ extension and a swivel 10mm socket. When you’re putting in the AMK compressor that setup doesn’t get on the bolt. Then I just get on it with a ratcheting box end wrench.
I start that bolt first and let the compressor hang from it, then I just rotate it up into position. It’s a good job and we charge 2.5 hours with diag and software. Control arms are juice too. We charge 4.5 or 5 hours plus the alignment. I can usually get those big bolts pushed out with my air hammer. I just lean in to it and first a cloud of rust comes out of it and then it flys out of there.
Both jobs are considered juice

On my Hitachi I don't see how you'd get anything other than a spanner on it. The pump is less than an inch away from the head and it's tucked way up there. If it were rusted, I don't see how you'd get at it without cutting the whole bracket/pump off with a Sawzall.

Have you done a 3rd stop light? Did I miss some pro trick?
 
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discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
7,733
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Northern Illinois
On my Hitachi I don't see how you'd get anything other than a spanner on it. The pump is less than an inch away from the head and it's tucked way up there. If it were rusted, I don't see how you'd get at it without cutting the whole bracket/pump off with a Sawzall.

Have you done a reverse light? Did I miss some pro trick?
You keep calling it a reverse light but the picture you posted is a 3rd stop lamp. Those suck so bad I call it body work and send it to a body shop.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,733
1,024
Northern Illinois
On my Hitachi I don't see how you'd get anything other than a spanner on it. The pump is less than an inch away from the head and it's tucked way up there. If it were rusted, I don't see how you'd get at it without cutting the whole bracket/pump off with a Sawzall.

Have you done a 3rd stop light? Did I miss some pro trick?
As I recall its glued down or something like that. When I did one I think I heated the thinig up with a heat gun and pry it up off the glue. But to be really honest I probably did one around '06 and that was my last one. Anything thats gotta get dug out of the roof like that is body work.
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,919
458
Darien Gap
As I recall its glued down or something like that. When I did one I think I heated the thinig up with a heat gun and pry it up off the glue. But to be really honest I probably did one around '06 and that was my last one. Anything thats gotta get dug out of the roof like that is body work.

Yes, a very strong RTV, and liberal use of it.
 

Howski

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2009
1,493
211
Alabama
Back for my semi annual griping on the LR3. Still a good vehicle for the most part. Put some new Toyos on early this year and replaced tie rods. Drives great. Still, some nagging issues have arisen, chasing an intermittent coolant weep from the radiator along with some other CELs. With newborn at home (and it being my DD) it’s become a little more inconvenient. The easy answer is to part with it and get a D5. It really meets all my 4x4/camping/dog hauling vehicle needs (besides the recurring small issues). I’m really trying to justify keeping it and getting a sedan/wagon to DD, plus better mpg and lower car payment. We have an XC90 that is our road trip car with extended factory warranty so I don’t see the need for two new large SUV’s. Thoughts?
 

MM3846

Well-known member
Feb 18, 2014
1,223
161
LI, NY
I’m just about to roll 80k. It’s my DD, 7 month old and 2.5 year old at home.

IMG_3197.jpeg
My son (the 2.5 yo) and I camped out by ourselves over father day weekend, he loves the truck and the tent. Headed upstate to my buddy’s property for more camping this weekend.

I’m interested to see what the new Prado/LC is gonna be when it’s revealed, but I don’t see getting rid of the LR4 anytime soon. I have to have the coolant crossovers replaced in the next few months for piece of mind. I’d like to send this thing to 200k.

I do see a cheap ass used Prius in my future for a commuter.