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Rollers were fine. This was strictly an alignment issue. There’s enough play in the mount holes for the motor/mechanism to cause a headache.

After typing the above I went back out to the truck and pulled the door panel again. Loosed the bolts holding the window to the lift track and it traveled fine up and down. Lowered and raised the window with the glass just riding the actuator and I noticed a slight shift front to back...

Trying to figure out what could be the issue with my passenger side front window. Goes down fast and smooth. No hesitation, etc. Goes up smoothly until halfway and then it bogs down and sometimes even stop. With some encouragement pulling on the glass, it will clear the halfway point...

OME MD springs and shocks 20+ years ago. Running 215/85/R16 pizza cutters. Same springs and my second set of shocks. Photo taken this past week. Running mellower tires lately.

I hear you. I believe the actual tank/cap/etc are in good shape. After draining the fluid, I tested the pump and bleeder seals on the reservoir at 15PSI and it held no issue. Only had the leak when started trying to push fluid through it. It was good at past 10PSI and I noticed the drop just...

It looks like the sub $50 kits are the non-abs kits. Trying to figure out if the parts I need carry over to the much more expensive ABS kit.

Went to bleed the system yesterday and was getting a leak at the reservoir grommet just as I was getting above 12 or so PSI on the pump. I have not been able to find the grommets anywhere. Truck is a 1997 with ABS (ABS disconnected and DOA for a while). The non-ABS reservoir kit is...

I don’t think it’s supposed to work that way…

1997 D1. Average about 11~12mpg here is LA which means lots of traffic. Will get 15~16mpg on long highway runs. OME medium lift and slightly larger tires.

I should have done a better job photo documenting things. Before I jacked it up, I tried to all the 3 bolts first to see what could be done. When I realized the castle nut was going to be a bear, I moved to the cross bolts which the impact wrench quickly sorted. Once they were loose but still...

1997 D1. Surprisingly, this wasn't that big of a deal. Thankful it's a South West truck. 2 hours start to finish including my fumbling around. I'm having shoulder surgery in 2 weeks so I'm scrambling to complete PM's before I'm a one armed bandit for a while. The two cross bolts were a...

That was the ticket. Whack with the large rubber mallet has something rattling in there. :(

with a stethoscope, it really seems isolated to the drivers side cat and the down pipe section just above it. Not from the exhaust manifold. No noise from the sump, bell housing, etc. The nuts on the down pipe weren't loose, but I gave them a little extra something which seems to have...

going to play with a stethoscope, the exhaust nuts and bolts, and give the cats a tap when it cools down.

New noise I'm trying to sort out. Right from start up. Knock at bottom end. 1997 D1 with a 4.0. Cylinder heads done under 10k miles ago. Definitely bottom end noise. Last year, someone tried to steal the cats which is the welds you see where they patched the cuts. Doesn't get louder on...

Ran 215/85 for about 35k miles. Could get squirrely at highway speeds. Ran 235/85 for about 40k miles after that. Now running 245/75. I had to cut a little off the rear wheel sheet metal with 235/85's. Running OME MD springs.

Truck was made in December '96. Original pump is WFX101020, with AEL. Replaced in 2014 with WFX101020K.

We're not sure. We were showing continuity along the harness, but with everything plugged in we were getting under 1volt at the tps. The original TPS and the cleaned up original ICV are back in. Once we found the parts were functional, I put them back in rather than the aftermarket...

Issue is currently resolved. I say currently because I'm not sure what I did. Removed and cleaned the dash switch and connections. No change. Removed and cleaned the connection at the wiper motor. No change. Gave the rear of the motor a hard knock with the screw driver handle in...

No alarm issues and dome light works normally too. Trying to understand why wiper would work normally with the electrical system on, but not work when the truck is started. Obviously power is getting to it so the switch works. What would send a signal to stop it from working? Today I got in...