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truck is gone, bumper remains...

well, I don't know how susceptible the old 3.9s are to liner dropping, but if it's gone 15 years and 275K without dropping one, don't know why it would now... no clouds of white smoke out the tailpipe, just smells like exhaust.

It is rust-free. Has 275K miles. exhaust is getting into the coolant. head gaskets are original; last time I did a compression check (6 months ago) it was 150s and 160s. Engine fires up fine and truck is drivable, but the exhaust pushes the coolant out the expansion tank within a few miles...

you've got a PM

BTW, look at all the "i'm parting out a D1, let me know what you want" posts that have no prices, but people are asked to "PM for the price".

TJM Bumper: $300 + shipping. Weight is a bit over 75 lbs; will be over 75 with packaging. The mounting hardware could be shipped separately to drop the weight under 70 lbs; not sure if there is a weight limit per-box for some shippers, but I think UPS and USPS was 75 lbs? Anyhow, size is...

I'm going ask $500 for the whole truck. probably overpriced, but I saw someone bought a wrecked '96 on ebay for $1200 (front end was destroyed and looked pretty picked-over in the for-sale ad). There's a big yard sale event this weekend, so if I can't get $500 over the weekend the asking price...

pictures can be seen here. I'll have to remove it and package it up to get a shipping quote. shipping from 89128. rest of the truck is also for sale :(

I thought it was going to be some long involved joke linking breeder reactors, meltdowns in japan and a DII overheating.

here's a picture of the "cavity probing" finger that is on the rear diff http://macklow.com/peg.jpg

if you've got a '94 or '95, they run fine on whatever you put in them. I've put hundreds of thousands of miles on my '95, and have tried all the fuel options from "top tier" premium (93 in canada) to 85 octane from no-name vendors in Utah/Colorado. My '95 seems to run best on the lowest octane...

try pulling the driveshafts one at a time, put on your diff lock, drive around at 72mph and see what happens.

didn't michelin stop making the xpc back in 2004 or so? aren't the ones for sale now "new old stock" and are 5+ years old already?

the guy that did your tail-lights also did soldering of your window ecu and cruise control board. be prepared for more involuntary expressions of admiration!

maybe you thought you disabled it, but at the exact moment you "disabled" it, it disabled itself by frying the abs computer, melted a wiring in a harness somewhere, broken wires at all four sensors... with WABCO the possibilities were never limited by the engineers!

my '95 won't clear the CEL unless I disconnect the battery. maybe yours has the same feature.

my owner's manual says use dexron II D. I think that means if it says "dexron" on the label somewhere it meets the standard. not sure what "GM specs" you refer to and what color has to do with it?

try borrowing or buying an inductive timing light... hook it up to each of the plug wires and see if one of them is consistently missing or not firing at all. You might want to pony up for a new (genuine) cap and rotor, and see if that fixes your problem. Even if it doesn't you'll need a cap...

take a look at this page: http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm Scroll down 'til you see: Fuel Injection Fault Display Follow the procedure. auto parts stores will be worse than useless if you take it there to get your codes read. my check engine light won't clear with the...