you know I have a similar problem, the same smell and everything that started last night but the fan runs and I get a huge vibration through the glove box when it's running and just in general. Any ideas?
'00 Disco II blower motor fail
- Thread starter Jon K
- Start date
ptschram
Well-known member
Jon K said:
Try cutting the wires in the connector and connecting them directly together. You may be pleasantly surprised and if not, no harm was done.
ptschram said:
The main connetor that you suspect or the fan connect? I assume main else the fan won't come out very easily.
Can I bypass all this resistor shit and just wire it up to one of those relays? I will try your idea now (as soon as I put my battery back in... tried fixing my ground terminal screw and dropped it beneath the battery box... sigh)
Also Ptschram- fan should run in high position even if the resistor pack is out right? I measure 12v at that point so I assume it should run?
Landcrawler said:
I had the vibration once don't recall a smell, but can't remember if it was on the GC or the DII. Anyhow, it turned out to be a chunk of foam that covers the air inlet, along the bottom of the window, a piece broke off and got sucked down into the blower.
ptschram
Well-known member
It is not a resistor, it is a power transistor and removing it will likely blow up your ATC.
The connector I circled in red is your most likely culprit. Cut it out and solder the wires together without the connector, wrap them in tape and give it a shot, you have little to lose.
The most common cause I have found for vibration is leaves, acorns and dog food in the ducts.
The connector I circled in red is your most likely culprit. Cut it out and solder the wires together without the connector, wrap them in tape and give it a shot, you have little to lose.
The most common cause I have found for vibration is leaves, acorns and dog food in the ducts.
PTschram - just cut and soldered. No luck. Voltage reads 12.2v when I prove the connection. Hook up the fan, that same junction reads millivolts or 0v.
Fan works tapped to battery directly. Where else can I look here - running out of time need this stupid truck back on the road for work tomorrow but its going to snow like a bear on tuesday and need a blower
Fan works tapped to battery directly. Where else can I look here - running out of time need this stupid truck back on the road for work tomorrow but its going to snow like a bear on tuesday and need a blower
ptschram
Well-known member
OK, run a wire from the lighter to the blower-at least you'll have a blower to stay warm.
Where are you in Pennsylvania? Ever wanted to see northern Indiana? I need another frustrating project!
Where are you in Pennsylvania? Ever wanted to see northern Indiana? I need another frustrating project!
Haha - as enticing as that is, I think I'll hang out in SE PA. I am down by Philadelphia/NJ. About 5 mins from Trenton, NJ over the bridge.
I copped out - I had a nice weatherpak sealed inline fuse holder w/ 10 or 12 gauge pig tails, and I found a piece of 10 or 12 gauge (matching the diameter of the stock wiring) wire about 4" longer than needed lol. Its even red! Sometimes in a pinch like this I end up finding a black or other color piece and painting lines or marking it hot so at least its obvious this is +12v.
Plugged it onto the battery through the firewall and used a crimp connect to the +12v side of the connector you were suspect of. Plugged all the crap back in and let her rip. It moves! It spins! It makes glorious glorious blowing noises! It even has fan speed control - impressive! I am going to leave the glovebox and footwell apart and make sure all is well on the commute to work tomorrow before I button it up and close this chapter.
Its got to be wherever that +12v wire for that connector is sourcing from. I smelled the kind of electrical sheathing burning smell and it seemed closer than the glovebox side, in fact I would leave over and couldn't smell it - so I guess its somewhere closer to the driver. Oh well.
Next up - want to help diagnose why my passenger side of my windshield clears (heated windshield) but the drivers side is only clearing in spots???
Thanks for your help! If you ever figure out where that +12v goes exactly I'd love to replace it. How hard is it to pull the fuse box out?
I copped out - I had a nice weatherpak sealed inline fuse holder w/ 10 or 12 gauge pig tails, and I found a piece of 10 or 12 gauge (matching the diameter of the stock wiring) wire about 4" longer than needed lol. Its even red! Sometimes in a pinch like this I end up finding a black or other color piece and painting lines or marking it hot so at least its obvious this is +12v.
Plugged it onto the battery through the firewall and used a crimp connect to the +12v side of the connector you were suspect of. Plugged all the crap back in and let her rip. It moves! It spins! It makes glorious glorious blowing noises! It even has fan speed control - impressive! I am going to leave the glovebox and footwell apart and make sure all is well on the commute to work tomorrow before I button it up and close this chapter.
Its got to be wherever that +12v wire for that connector is sourcing from. I smelled the kind of electrical sheathing burning smell and it seemed closer than the glovebox side, in fact I would leave over and couldn't smell it - so I guess its somewhere closer to the driver. Oh well.
Next up - want to help diagnose why my passenger side of my windshield clears (heated windshield) but the drivers side is only clearing in spots???
Thanks for your help! If you ever figure out where that +12v goes exactly I'd love to replace it. How hard is it to pull the fuse box out?
Its pretty easy. Look under the glovebox panel theres 4 screws holding it in. Drop the box out. Pop the black panel that is help on by push-screws. Then the blower is held on with 3 torx/hex screws and a wiring connector. It drops right out. if you have a vibration its likely the bearings are screwed. The smell is probably it generating too much heat.
thanks, that helps.
Can you replace just the bearings or is it nessecery to replace the entire motor?
Can you replace just the bearings or is it nessecery to replace the entire motor?
ptschram
Well-known member
Landcrawler said:
I wouldn't even bother trying to fix the motor, just replace it with a used one. I might even have one available.
I thought so too but the connectors look good (oh boy) lol.wheelen disco said:
I'll check the voltage with the heaters connected and see what I get.
Pulled the motor and there was a piece of the molding from my windshield in it. Just had the windsheild replaced hours earlier so I guess when they cut the molding, it feel down into the dash. About a foot of it. Put the motor back in and it's all good now.
Jon K said:Next up - want to help diagnose why my passenger side of my windshield clears (heated windshield) but the drivers side is only clearing in spots???
Thanks for your help! If you ever figure out where that +12v goes exactly I'd love to replace it. How hard is it to pull the fuse box out?
If some of the drivers side is working it probably isn't the connection. I bet some of the wires in the glass have broken somehow.
I believe the power is fed from fusible link 4 (100 A) of the engine bay fuse box to fuses 6 and 7 (25 and 30 A) in the passenger compartment fuse box. Those 2 fuses feed the rear and front blowers respectively.
Drivers side of the windshield works the least compared to the passenger side... which figures lol
ptschram said:
What does a used blower motor run ($)?
Mine has been squealing like a pig at any speed but high...