03 disco 4.6 headgasket swap

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aroshan

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2006
51
0
orange county, CA
Last edited:
B

baddmojoii

Guest
I don't see anything out of the ordinary in your pictures. The lifters rarely fail on this engine. Some of the earlier year models had issues with the rocker arms that cause a tapping noise. Some people have also had knocking noises due to moving sleeves.
 
CandiMan

CandiMan

Well-known member
Apr 9, 2008
425
0
Charlotte, NC
www.cardomain.com
aroshan said:
Hey members, I?m in the middle of doing my head gasket swap and I?ve always been trying to figure out that weird ticking the 03's tend to get. So I think I found it and I?m just looking for advice.

This is the driver?s side. If you notice the indents I think it's either my rockers need to be taken care of or my lifters are sticking. Please advice

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket022.jpg
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket023.jpg
Click to expand...

Hard to tell from the pics, what indents are you referring to?
 
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osiristheclown

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2009
337
0
Are you talking about the sort of triangular marks in the casting? Those are from boring the lifter bores, nothing wrong there.
 
jeffro0502

jeffro0502

Well-known member
Aug 22, 2006
718
0
Navarre FL
Mine had that tap/tick at 54K used Marvel Mystery Oil and it went away. Have not had it return yet. I've got 109K on it now, I do also use a small bottle of MMO every other oil change. I believe mine was a lifter that was clogged or slightly clogged.
 
A

aroshan

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2006
51
0
orange county, CA
hey guys, here is a picture of the passanger side.

headgasket025.jpg

headgasket026.jpg


So what I?m tiring to describe are those triangular marks in the casting. The passenger side does not have then, since I?m thinking about it now I guess the lifters even at full extent could not rub the wall like that nor could the push rods pop out of place and pop back in to create those marks. But those marks not look like they are normal.

The noise is similar to what other people have posted about just a ticking noise it comes and goes. But I did notice that from 50-75k miles it was one item ticking and maybe since 100k miles it's been a few items ticking but again it will go away and the engine will run silent. this is why I took pictures of the inside of the block because you can see in my first post that one triangle is much bigger than the others, which made me think this has been my noise and maybe a bad rocker or just issues with the head has done this.

Those marks are from the driver?s side when the noise was from about the third cylinder towards the back.
 
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osiristheclown

Well-known member
Aug 16, 2009
337
0
Once again, that is simply where metal was milled away when the lifter bores were machined and has nothing to do with the ticking noise. I would be more worried about the varnish fouling the lifters. What are you using for oil? It looks like the stuff out of the deep fryer at the drive in.

Try youtube for a video of engine block machining, perhaps you'll understand how those triangles got there and why.
 
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aroshan

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2006
51
0
orange county, CA
Thanks osiristheclown
That took a lot off my mind I understand now what that is.

The varnish you see if from an engine flush with ATF fluid I saw on another forum that was about 10k miles ago but here is a picture of the varnish after I ran a fingernail across it. It just baked on there and my oil pan is sludgy.
[/SIZE][/FONT][URL="http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket008-3.jpg%5b/IMG"][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#0000ff]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket008-3.jpg[/IMG[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/URL][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=white]Also the front timing cover must have had a leak because i could not find the rest of the gasket untill i looked in the oil pickup line.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][IMG][/SIZE][/FONT][URL="http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket006-2.jpg%5b/IMG"][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#0000ff]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket006-2.jpg[/IMG[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/URL][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][IMG][/SIZE][/FONT][URL="http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket005-3.jpg%5b/IMG"][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#0000ff]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket005-3.jpg[/IMG[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/URL][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][IMG][/SIZE][/FONT][URL="http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket007-4.jpg%5b/IMG"][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#0000ff]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket007-4.jpg[/IMG[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT][/URL][FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3]][/SIZE][/FONT]

[COLOR=white]So i spoke with someone who explained how to tell if there is ware on the lifter and also on the cam shaft so i'm gonna keep tareing away. [/COLOR]
[COLOR=#ffffff][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#ffffff]Does anyone know of a type of sludge remover that i could use to clean out the inside of the block and parts? also any product recomendations for cleaning the outside of the block and parts?[/COLOR]
[COLOR=#ffffff][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#ffffff]thanks[/COLOR]

[/COLOR]
 
chemtool

chemtool

Well-known member
Jan 24, 2010
185
0
An ATF flush is useless as ATF has less detergents than motor oil. It just looks impressive coming out as it is a thinner oil and will flush out the darkened oil that coats the inside of the engine. As far as a flush that works look for the Berryman's B12 Chemtool that says specifically it can be used in the oil (carquest carries it), but be warned it is some strong stuff. Seafoam is good also in the oil but takes longer. A quart of Marvel Mystery Oil can be added for an entire OCI or for the last 500 miles and is a slower safer cleaner.
 
CandiMan

CandiMan

Well-known member
Apr 9, 2008
425
0
Charlotte, NC
www.cardomain.com
chemtool said:
An ATF flush is useless as ATF has less detergents than motor oil. It just looks impressive coming out as it is a thinner oil and will flush out the darkened oil that coats the inside of the engine. As far as a flush that works look for the Berryman's B12 Chemtool that says specifically it can be used in the oil (carquest carries it), but be warned it is some strong stuff. Seafoam is good also in the oil but takes longer. A quart of Marvel Mystery Oil can be added for an entire OCI or for the last 500 miles and is a slower safer cleaner.
Click to expand...

I agree with 90% of what you're saying. There is no wonder chemical that can safely clean a engine in one application. If such chemical existed, I would think twice before putting into engine. As you stated, there are chemicals out there if used regularly during OCI will effective clean your engine over time.

The other 10% that we disagree on is when you state ATF has less detergent than motor oil. When was the last time you saw a transmission internal with varnish or sludge?
 
listerdiesel

listerdiesel

Well-known member
Feb 16, 2010
1,113
1
Rushden, Northants
www.stationary-engine.co.uk
We used a diesel fully synthetic 10W-40 oil for the first 8000miles after our rebuild, safely took out the remnants of the sludge that was in the rockers etc. Was still clear enough to see through to the dipstick face when we changed it during the camshaft gear replacement.

Worked so well we carried on using it!

Shell Helix 10W-40.

We 'happen' to have two Renault Trafic (yes, it 'is' spelt like that in France) turbo-diesel vans that use that oil, so it is around the factory most of the time and saves the boys picking up the wrong oil for their vans when they need some.

Other makers sell that spec as well as Shell.

Peter
 
ptschram

ptschram

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2004
21,955
49
In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
www.ptschram.com
Personally, I think anyone who puts anything other than the correct engine oil in an engine is asking for trouble. It's a good way to break a crankshaft-ask me how I know!

Badmojo-you are wrong! These engines eat camshafts like no other engine I've worked on in the past 40 years-bar none! When the cams start wearing, the lifters go away as well.

Aro-you need a dial indicator to accurately measure the camshaft-search under my user name for a lengthy discussion with pics of how to do it, and what it looks like. I have found it to be the rule, not the exception that the camshafts need to be replaced on these trucks, I measure each and every one if I pull the intake for any reason. I've seen them so badly worn that the lifter was wearing on the unground portion of the cam.
 
A

aroshan

Well-known member
Nov 10, 2006
51
0
orange county, CA
thanks ptschram, since i dont have a dial indicator and i see the ware on my cam shaft and lifters i was just going to buy a cam shaft, full set of lifters, and a thrust plate?
To tell you the truth i dont even know what a trust plate is or where it goes, nor do i know what OCI means? can someone fill me in?

question
i've noticed small marks on my camshaft under where my lifter was and the lifter did not a circular marks on it, more like a square mark telling me that that lifter is not moving freely. is this correct?

does the cam shaft come out from behind the flywheel?
what do i have to know when removing the cam shaft?

thank you
 
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