03 disco 4.6 headgasket swap

[CandiMan]

OCI = oil change interval

 

[eliaschristeas]

Personally, I think anyone who puts anything other than the correct engine oil in an engine is asking for trouble. It's a good way to break a crankshaft-ask me how I know!

Badmojo-you are wrong! These engines eat camshafts like no other engine I've worked on in the past 40 years-bar none! When the cams start wearing, the lifters go away as well.

Aro-you need a dial indicator to accurately measure the camshaft-search under my user name for a lengthy discussion with pics of how to do it, and what it looks like. I have found it to be the rule, not the exception that the camshafts need to be replaced on these trucks, I measure each and every one if I pull the intake for any reason. I've seen them so badly worn that the lifter was wearing on the unground portion of the cam.

crap. i use crisco instead of assembly lube.....:banghead:

 

[aroshan]

Hey guys, so today i was tring to finish up so i could buy my parts and start the rebuild. my goal was to remove the cam shaft.

I was able to unbolt the flywheel and remove that for a bearing that goes behind there somewhere.

Now i set my timeing chain to top dead center and remove.

i remove the thrust plate and the cam shaft should slide out right?
i cant get it to slide out any help?

 

[ihscouts]

.....what about the lifters, did you remove them?

 

[aroshan]

yes everything is out of the truck. it's a bare block, just a cam shaft and crank shaft. i just need to know how to remove the cam? it wont slide out but will slide inwared about i quater inch till it hits that big metal plug on the back of the engine. if sliding out the back is the way to go how do you remove that plug i will post a picture of the plug tomorrow.

 

[CandiMan]

yes everything is out of the truck. it's a bare block, just a cam shaft and crank shaft. i just need to know how to remove the cam? it wont slide out but will slide inwared about i quater inch till it hits that big metal plug on the back of the engine. if sliding out the back is the way to go how do you remove that plug i will post a picture of the plug tomorrow.

The camshaft slides out the front of the engine. Due to the different size camshaft journals, it will not physically slide out the rear. The camshaft is probably hung up on a bearing. Try using a screwdriver and pry against a camshaft lobe.

Since you mentioned the rear camshaft plug, this might be a good time to remove and reseal that plug (after the cam is removed) Here's a pic of my plug. My plug was previously sealed by someone, but eventually it leaked.
http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/2010/1721/30023360430_large.jpg

 

[aroshan]

hey guys so i've taken some time off of the truck because i buying up parts to replace my clutch in my car. in the meen time i've been doing some cleaning. i'm rewraping all my wireing and cleaning down my engine bay.

i wanted to clean my transmission bell houseing because i shop i use to go to left off all the access plugs and it got pretty muddy in there. so what i did was remove my torque converter.

nice and clean

i also got the cam out of my block and started to clean tha up a bit

so i am stuck on one thing, i cant get my torque converter back in aligned. any help?

 

[aroshan]

does anyone know how to reinstall a torque converter. i cannot get it lined up correctly.

 

[CandiMan]

does anyone know how to reinstall a torque converter. i cannot get it lined up correctly.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e325/funrunner91/headgasket008-5.jpg

How have you been trying to re-install the TC? What's the electrical tape and piece of stick for? I've never installed a TC on a LR but I can only assume it's like most other TC's out there. Which is, line up the TC hub with the pump hub. Keeping turning the TC until you hear and fell the hub and pump engage.

 

[aroshan]

hey guys here is my update. i'm still stuck on the torque converter bye the way.

So I?m now putting my truck back together. And I could sure use some help. First here are some of the parts being replaced.
Here is the head that was rebuilt $125

The new camshaft $150

New lifters $100

Head gasket kit $100

I even had both upper and lower plenum hot bathed $15 for both

New oil pump $100
Timing chain and sprockets $80
Push rods $110
Cam and bearings ($140 bearings)
Head bolts and con rod bolts (head) $70 (Con rod) $70
Drop my whole engine and parts off at the engine rebuilder. about $850 on the high end for the rebuild and block hot bath

So the rebuilder tore everything apart, block and head are in great shape.
Asked for me to order the main bearings and con rod bearings as well as the piston rings. I made this order last week and the parts got there yesterday minus the piston rings. The shop calls me today and said they put in the cam bearings but the camshaft won?t fit. I do my research and the cam bearings are unfinished, the need to be installed into the block and then they need to be bored out to fit the cam. I?ve been calling around but have no real luck. Everyone who sells rover parts only sell unfinished cam bearings.
so I did talk an old timer who has a small machine shop, he does not have the machine to bore them out but he said the block is a Buick 215 and the same bearings could be used are duramaster or something like that b11 is the size.
Anyone advise please!
Thanks

 

[kennith]

It is indeed based on the Buick 215, and very similar in many ways; and in some ways, not changed. That being the case, I'm not sure about interchangeable bearings. I wouldn't screw with it until you hear from someone who has seen them before, or knows the specifications for both parts.

Cams are something that do tend to change as engines evolve over time. Sometimes, it's just the lobes, but these engines have been in far too many different cars to take a shot in the dark.

Cheers,

Kennith