Hi, new here. Quick intoduction for myself, I've been a long time Jeep guy...still have my Jeep and use it for hardcore rockcrawling but its time to start fixing up the landrover sence its a few years old now. First things first I want a center diff lock (I think thats what you guys are calling a CDL?) My T-case does not have the little nub poping out of the top to conect a linkage, so I will be pulling it out and swaping in a diff lock t-case.....however, from there on I am lost. What do I need to do/buy and install to get the diff lock to work(linkages ect...). I saw Safari Guard has an electric motor deal but they want over $400 for that stupid thing....talk about a rip off.
03 Disco. diff lock conversion
- Thread starter 03DISCOII
- Start date
Got the same issue already gathered some info...
Cost is about 1000 for parts and 1000 - 1200 labor... Gets you all stock parts and you get to keep your factory warranty or extend it.
I'll get more info from my parts source, yet I'm still waiting on exact T-case components to accomplish this.
Recommend doing a search on this forum on CDL 2003, t-case, diff lock or some combination thereof to find most comprehensive forum discussions.
Cost is about 1000 for parts and 1000 - 1200 labor... Gets you all stock parts and you get to keep your factory warranty or extend it.
I'll get more info from my parts source, yet I'm still waiting on exact T-case components to accomplish this.
Recommend doing a search on this forum on CDL 2003, t-case, diff lock or some combination thereof to find most comprehensive forum discussions.
Forgot to mention re: that DII2003 CDL conversion
Adrian Strata, www.4x4ag.com can source parts through Ashcroft...
Very helpful and even provided some pics to help visualize the components...
Adrian Strata, www.4x4ag.com can source parts through Ashcroft...
Very helpful and even provided some pics to help visualize the components...
Does anybody know where I can find the electric CDL that Great Basin rovers sales? I've checked thier site over and over and cant find it....all I really need is a price.
The $30 price from the one above interest me......but thats kinda getto.
The $30 price from the one above interest me......but thats kinda getto.
Well, actully the getto part dosent bother me too much just the fact that I know that these T-case are hard to shift and if that T-case even gets into a bind and I need to shift out of the diff lock....its going to be real hard trying to twist that knob. After some thought though, I could probably do a very similar set up however have it come out the side the center console and have it be more of a "lever" than a knob.
I'll keep you guys up dated if I decide to go that route, maybe I'll just fab up a shift linkage. I know for sure the shift linkage off a NP231 t-case (Jeep T-case) will fit the CDL nub, I'll just have to fab up the rest.
I'll keep you guys up dated if I decide to go that route, maybe I'll just fab up a shift linkage. I know for sure the shift linkage off a NP231 t-case (Jeep T-case) will fit the CDL nub, I'll just have to fab up the rest.
You are in Corona...Call Gordon at Inland Rovers in Riverside....he can help you with everything you need....he put the locking parts in my 02 non-CDL t-case when LRNA had to reseal the tcase under extended warranty. I only paid for parts. Sweet! He is also installing my 04 linkage this weekend. He can at least help you with what you might need to get started yourself.
03DISCOII said:
GBR mechanical lock is not much different in price from SG's from what I remember....I checked into that too
just to throw my worthless opinion in the ring...
alot of people like the electric version...I feel alot more comfortable with actual linkage...I have heard of some shorting issues from the electric mechanism, but they write up on this site shows how to waterproof and idiotproof it pretty well. I think over all I am just too anal and couldnt figure out a way to make a inside switch for it look right, and I am lost as to how to decently label the factory blank switches. Factory is fashionable....just ask Ho!
Keep in mind that SG is now a SCLR sponsor (Join SCLR if you havent already...they are a great bunch of people who are a blast to wheel with) and SG will give you 10% off with your membership if you decide to go that route.
Bryant,
Do you know how much Inland Rover would normally charge for installing the CDL shifter. I have all the parts from a D1 that I ordered from Roverlandparts.com. I just don't have the time nor the tools to install it myself. Plus I want to have it done properly, so it doesn't have to be done more than once. Thanks in advance.
Do you know how much Inland Rover would normally charge for installing the CDL shifter. I have all the parts from a D1 that I ordered from Roverlandparts.com. I just don't have the time nor the tools to install it myself. Plus I want to have it done properly, so it doesn't have to be done more than once. Thanks in advance.
bruinlad said:
I am not sure and I hate to put words in their mouth...I do know the D1 linkage is a bit more of a bugger to get right than the 04 D2 stuff. I have seen someone elses D1 linkage install over there need quite a bit of finessing to get right...Something totally out of my league mechanically!
I just know that when I get stuff done there (which basically my whole truck was built by IR, and very soon we are going to be doing some sweet suspension stuff on my truck after the first of the year
), he always seems to be more than fair...plus, I know it is right. I try to shy away from shameless endorsements, but I am very happy with the work they do over there...give them a call!
Ted et al,
Do you know what T-Case parts and gearing were necessary for the t-case conversion?
That's the piece I'm missing detail on.... from the nipple on up, I've found several options from external levers to the LR 04 shifter assembly....
$1000 total is half of what I've been getting in response to my inquiries into parts and labor. My dealer has no issue with genuine LR parts and warranty. So, if I can detail out the t-case parts, source them + the shifter assembly, and work with my dealer for install, I'm good to go. Alas, we do not have any import or domestic 4x4 mechanic shops around here to consult or service with.
Do you know what T-Case parts and gearing were necessary for the t-case conversion?
That's the piece I'm missing detail on.... from the nipple on up, I've found several options from external levers to the LR 04 shifter assembly....
$1000 total is half of what I've been getting in response to my inquiries into parts and labor. My dealer has no issue with genuine LR parts and warranty. So, if I can detail out the t-case parts, source them + the shifter assembly, and work with my dealer for install, I'm good to go. Alas, we do not have any import or domestic 4x4 mechanic shops around here to consult or service with.
B
bshinn
Guest
Just did a DI shifter conversion on a DII. HIGHLY recommend it!!
The only remotely difficult part was getting the dogleg on the Hi/LO linkage right. If I had access to a proper vise instead of my friggin workmate it would have taken 20 min tops.
Whole job took ~ 5hrs & I could shave that to 3 if I had to do it again.
Total cost about $230.00 ($180.00 for shifter, & $50.00 for replacement seals/gaskets/gaters)! I took the time to dissassemble it, clean & regrease all the shafts & pivots.
I can't tell any difference in the noise level from the shiter, only clue that its not stock is the shifter leaning toward the pass side. I've stated before that I think LR going to the cable shifter was cost savings. Compare the two & there's a hell of a lot more machine work in the DI setup conpared to the DII cable setup.
The writeup on EE tech board pretty much nails it, but Morris leaves the DII cable, brackets, ect installed. I chose to remove all that & that consumed another hour or so.
Also the hole in the shifter mount plate needs to be a lot larger that appears in the photos.
Other than that it's pug & play.
Bob
The only remotely difficult part was getting the dogleg on the Hi/LO linkage right. If I had access to a proper vise instead of my friggin workmate
it would have taken 20 min tops.Whole job took ~ 5hrs & I could shave that to 3 if I had to do it again.
Total cost about $230.00 ($180.00 for shifter, & $50.00 for replacement seals/gaskets/gaters)! I took the time to dissassemble it, clean & regrease all the shafts & pivots.
I can't tell any difference in the noise level from the shiter, only clue that its not stock is the shifter leaning toward the pass side. I've stated before that I think LR going to the cable shifter was cost savings. Compare the two & there's a hell of a lot more machine work in the DI setup conpared to the DII cable setup.
The writeup on EE tech board pretty much nails it, but Morris leaves the DII cable, brackets, ect installed. I chose to remove all that & that consumed another hour or so.
Also the hole in the shifter mount plate needs to be a lot larger that appears in the photos.
Other than that it's pug & play.
Bob
I think the one that I saw having issues going in was a salvaged one, so it may have been bent a little or had other carnage. Either way, you have to be handy to put that junk in!
Bob,
So when you installed yours what other materials and/or parts did you need to order. Whether it be adhesive, sealant or parts you had to replace from the one originally installed that were not mentioned by the EE writeup. Or were all the materials mentioned there were adequate and you got to use most of the old parts. I know the CDL shifter I ordered has everything except for the nut and washer that secures the cdl linkage to the nipple. Thanks.
So when you installed yours what other materials and/or parts did you need to order. Whether it be adhesive, sealant or parts you had to replace from the one originally installed that were not mentioned by the EE writeup. Or were all the materials mentioned there were adequate and you got to use most of the old parts. I know the CDL shifter I ordered has everything except for the nut and washer that secures the cdl linkage to the nipple. Thanks.
B
bshinn
Guest
I could have installed the shifter as it came, but knowing of the problems these things have freezing up I decided to rebuild it. I replaced the gaskets/bushings/ & gater. Reused all the o-rings internally because they were in fine shape. I also added a bushing on the pivot point for the CDL, the exploded drawing dosen't show them but the ones for either end of the dogleg rod fit fine, & I think that did wonders keeping it quiet. Before it was steel on steel.
Other than that EE's article was what I went by.
Bought all the gaskets, ect form Rovers North. Some of the stuff was special order out of the UK so it took a few weeks. Here's the exploded drawing:
http://www.roversnorth.com/RRD04/RRD04_37_40/RRD04_page37.htm
Mine did not include P/N's 32,42,41 or the plate that seals the rubber boot to the shifter housing itself. With all that sealed up I don't see how it could freeze up again.
Other than that EE's article was what I went by.
Bought all the gaskets, ect form Rovers North. Some of the stuff was special order out of the UK so it took a few weeks. Here's the exploded drawing:
http://www.roversnorth.com/RRD04/RRD04_37_40/RRD04_page37.htm
Mine did not include P/N's 32,42,41 or the plate that seals the rubber boot to the shifter housing itself. With all that sealed up I don't see how it could freeze up again.
I'm getting ready to do this conversion, but I can't decide whether or not to go with the D1 linkage or the 04 D2 linkage. Roverland advertises that they have both (salvage) but I haven't called to confirm. The 04 is $325 vs $150 for the D1 linkage. Is there a big difference between the two, or is the extra cost for the 04 linkage not justified? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
$325?!?!?! I just paid $75 for the shifter and an other $75 for the cable at my dealer (well, that price was dealer cost...Im not sure what the consumer price is)
BTW, I just picked up my t-case...came out of an '04. Perfect shape, it was mis-diagnosed at the dealer and they needed to get rid of it. Needless to say I got a really good deal......free. woooooohoooooo!
BTW, I just picked up my t-case...came out of an '04. Perfect shape, it was mis-diagnosed at the dealer and they needed to get rid of it. Needless to say I got a really good deal......free. woooooohoooooo!