1996 No crank, click, replaced starter but still no crank

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Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
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EDIT: RESOLVED. PROBLEM: ME BEING A JACKASS.


1996 Disco,

Died on the wife. Got the Optima Battery recharged and its showing 12V. It wouldn't crank so since this one has the original starter I decided to put in a new one.

After spending a couple frustrating hours replacing the starter it still wont crank!

I have fuel pressure and I can hear the GM fuel pump priming each time. It does a single "click" and nothing else.

The battery light is also on but dim.

Any ideas? I'm leaving tomorrow AM and would very much like to figure this out as its my wifes daily driver.


Thanks! :victory:
 
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M

Macro1

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May 14, 2010
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mbrummal said:
check the battery cable for corrosion
Click to expand...

I did notice the negative cable wasn't pristine. Not sure about the positive. will check.
 
M

Macro1

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May 14, 2010
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cables appear to be "OK".

I cleaned off the terminals and they are fine. The terminal that I connected to the starter appear ok as well. No corrosion. The end of the ground from the battery is fine as well, just a little rust. The ground cable itself only has some oxidation but no corrosion.

There is only a click of a single(?) replay from the passenger side, not the multiple clicks that come on when the battery is dead.

Electrical power to the aux components to the car is fine. I locked and unlocked the truck several times just in case it was the security system.

I've also just checked all the fuses.

Could it be the park shifter sensor? If so, whats the best way to test it?
 
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M

Macro1

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May 14, 2010
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ptschram said:
If it's clicking, it's likely not the neutral switch, but try putting it in neutral and trying it again.

New starter or rebuild? You got the wires on right?
Click to expand...
Thanks PT,

New Starter. Wires are on correctly.

I've been searching the past hour and this seems to have been very similar: here
http://discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=67977&highlight=starter

History:
A couple months ago there was a "hesitation" when starting. The starter would engage after a few seconds. Then it went away and haven't had a problem for almost two months.

I was considering the parking switch as it has been finicky in the past.

I should also mention three days ago after jumping the Rover because of a dead battery, it idled for nearly 10 minutes then "just died" on the wife. Unfortunately I have been out of town and have been unable to deal with it.
Any thoughts?
 
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M

Macro1

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May 14, 2010
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PT,

Just to be clear, there is only a single click from the passenger side, not the rapid clicking.

I also tried starting it in neutral and still no go.
 
Roach

Roach

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Sep 5, 2007
383
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west of the city...
fwiw, try a KNOWN good battery. I know, I know, but based on my own experiences, this would be my next step. These trucks are so dang finicky about power. (actually, i would have tried this 1st after dying while idiling.)
 
pdxrovermech

pdxrovermech

Well-known member
Jul 3, 2009
1,807
57
Portland, OR
run power directly from the battery to the solenoid to see if it cranks. at least you'll be able to eliminate the starter than way. and good point with the good battery. old batteries sometimes just lose their reserve.
 
M

Macro1

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May 14, 2010
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I did the headlight test. NO- they do not turn off as you turn the key to start.

I just tried jumping it again as Ido not have another good battery. No difference.
 
Jake1996D1

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
sounds like a bad connection... Did you check the other end of the ground cable? Sometimes water can get inside the insulation and rot the cable from the inside out. try grounding your battery with a jumper and see if it stays running. Keep the gauge on it so you can see if the volts are changing. This is why I LOVE my scan gauge tool

how long does it run before it dies? I have had the single click happen to me but only when the battery was damn near dead... You also test the alternator?
 
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M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
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Jake1996D1 said:
sounds like a bad connection... Did you check the other end of the ground cable? Sometimes water can get inside the insulation and rot the cable from the inside out. try grounding your battery with a jumper and see if it stays running. Keep the gauge on it so you can see if the volts are changing. This is why I LOVE my scan gauge tool

how long does it run before it dies? I have had the single click happen to me but only when the battery was damn near dead... You also test the alternator?
Click to expand...

The problem is it doesn't turn over... at all. No crank. No engagement of the starter.

Im not sure how my single click from a really(s) in the passenger side compares to your single click issue as I have "full" power (12V) to all my accesses i.e.: lights, dash, radio, etc.

I could try metering the cable, but unfortunately it will have to wait.
 
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thequickervicar

thequickervicar

Well-known member
Aug 12, 2010
241
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Lancaster, PA
I went through the same thing with my '94 a few months ago. It was always kinda weird when it started: turn the key and wait a split second and then it would turn over relatively slowly. Sometimes it wouldn't turn over right away, but if you held the key it eventually would pull through.

Then one day....nothing. I got the click, but nothing else. Since mine is a manual, I knew it wasn't a neutral switch issue. Had to be the starter, so Randy hooked me up with a known good used one. I stuck it in and it fired right up. Awesome!! Took it for a short drive to get it warm and then shut it down in my driveway again. Started it up again for a confirmation of my sweet skills and....nothing. Just that click again.

That's when I remembered Randy's voice asking me a couple days before "You sure the leads are good?" Of course they're good! They look....well....okay. Pretty normal. Kinda. A little small, maybe.

I went to work and fabricated a hot lead and a ground out of welding ground 2/0 cable. She fires instantly and authoritatively now.

Replace your leads. At least you'll know, if nothing else.
 
M

Macro1

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May 14, 2010
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Battery is 12.3v.

Sorry PT, I wish the truck was in front of you! LOL.

I will definitely put a test light to the starter as soon as possible. BTW- is it worth just replacing the leads or should I meter the cables first?
 
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howler10b

howler10b

Member
Sep 3, 2010
23
0
san fernando valley, CA
Check to see if you get 12v at the little wire at the starter when you turn the key to crank. Have somebody inside twist the key and when they do you gotta see 12v at that little wire. if not i'd look into ignition switch or key tumbler cylinder.
 
M

Macro1

Well-known member
May 14, 2010
116
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Sorry for the delay.

Right now I'm out of town but will probably get my bro to go test it for me.

QUESTIONS:

IF there is NO voltage to the small wire leading the the starter, proceed to test what?

IF the voltage IS ≥12V, proceed to test what?
 
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