2001 hard to start,.....and low on power

bcolins

Well-known member
Aug 26, 2008
111
0
Austin/Cedar Park
Recently did the Will Tillery head gasket kit and new Kingsborne 8mm wires. All seems good in terms of no coolant or oil leaks and no more ignition misses.

for the first week after the refresh, it started instantly, and ran smoothly, but would not accept much throttle..............if I added more than about 2" of throttle pedal movement, the truck would bog down. Sitting still in park, I could rev it to 4500 with very light throttle application, but if I floored it, it would go to about 3000 RPM and hang there with a lot of moaning (for lack of a better term) emitting from the intake and some occasional light intake backfiring, but no backfires out the exhaust as would be typical of low fuel pressure). With careful throttle use, I could (slowly) accelerate to really any speed (and drive comfortably there on flat to rolling terrain.

Forward to 4 days ago,.....in an effort to diagnose the truck's not wanting to accept anything more than light throttle application, and on the recommendation of some fellow LR owners, I pulled the MAF connection off while it was running.......it died immediately,...which apparently indicated that The MAF it was working...............at least at some level.

Next it was suggested that I pull off the Throttle position sensor and see what happened,.....did that with the engine off (because I had to remove the air intake hose and crankcase/valve cover vent hose) ,...unplugged the TPS and started it (with MAF/intake hose reconnected)...............and it idled OK, but would NOT accept ANY throttle......again with backfiring in the intake..........(.but not out the exhaust as would be typical for low fuel pressure). I plugged the TPS back in and drove the truck and no change.

A friend dropped by to see what I was up to and suggested spraying starting ether in to the air intake while attempting to accelerate,....and see if it accelerated more strongly,...(possibly suggesting low fue pressure?),...Lots of pinging with a quck shot of ether,......not a good thing!. Drove the truck, it ran the same......no change. came home, shut it off. done for the day.

Forward to 3 days ago. On Cold start, the truck did not want to start at all. Actually, it would start, but only run for a second or 2 then die. After a dozen or so attempts to start,...I gave up.

2 days ago.......Tried to start it,...again noticed that it would start and run on all 8 cylinders for only a few seconds. Did many google and Land rover forum searches and came across a suggestion to try resetting the inertia switch.....which I thn recalled my friend had pushed while asking " What's this?"....thinking that perhaps it had not reset properly I pressed it again, no change,.. I thought I would disconnect the inertia switch completely, and now it wont start at all,....reconnected it and now all my flashers are flashing...............closed the hood, closed and locked the truck locked and unlocked it several times but was unable to get the flashers to stop flashing......figured I had tripped the imobilizer circuit by unplugging the inertia switch,...so....pulled the battery negative terminal,..left it off for a few minutes and the re-connected and now the flashers were off. Tried to start it,....same start and die,....repeatedly. I enventually notiice that with a lot of gas pedal pumping.....more like gently tapping it,....I could keep it running but it was running raggedly,....every time I tapped the gas pedal it ould immediately start to die, but then would recover for a second or two,....then start to die again until I bumped the gas pedal again..............eventually, after running like this for a few minutes, it would idle on its own,..............then I could drive it,............BUT it now accepts almost NO throttle..................still running on all 8 cylinders....but takes about 45 seconds to get to 45 mph.

So, the last 3 things that were done prior to the condition getting worse was

1)disconnect TPS
2)press inertia switch
3)spray ether into intake / MAF while attempting to bump throttle

Wondering if the TPS switch or wiring was damage by the last unplug and re-plug or if the ether sprayed into the MAF toasted the MAF??

Checked to see if any new codes last night: only 1590 which is ABS related I believe
Had some previous mis-fire DTCs after washing the engine at the car wash.....those have cleared up.

Any suggestions?

PS: If all you have is criticism for poor procedure, double posting in an effort to get this fixed or lack or LR knowledge, please keep your thoughts to yourself (you know who you are)

BC
 
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d1driver

Well-known member
Oct 19, 2005
3,153
1
Pittsburgh, PA
Check to ensure plug wires are on correctly. Mine ran with two wires crossed, but not well. Hard starting, would choke up when you hit the throttle, etc.
 

saint

Member
Oct 21, 2007
21
0
Had all that going on for 3 months in and out of the shop. I too have a d2 2001. Rover dealer(largest in the mid west) 1st said coil packs, NO , then o2 sensors, NO, then knock sensor, NO, then cam sensor, NO, then fried ecm then I had the wrong plugs amd wires all genuine! After 3 months of driving a lr2 loaner it ended up being nothing more than a cracked neg. bat. ter. wire clipping on and off killing the ecm and frying cable 8 for an on and off misfire and burning out pass. side cat.

Runs like a bat out of hell now.
And for the record this all started with a check engine light I couldn't figure out myself. Best part of this time in hell is with alot of talk/bitching I only paid for half.
 

saint

Member
Oct 21, 2007
21
0
Posting again because I for got that I changed the mass air flow during this 3 month ride. Also all the codes they came up with matched my friends MATCO obd scanner. As for my codes about 10 during this but I do have the bible for this truck if you need a code reference.