2003 4.6 dowel removal

rmuller

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
4,452
1
Northern NJ
www.njlr.org
I'm rebuilding a 2003 4.6 to put into my 2001, it has 106k miles on it, and hasnt had any problems with oil pressure, but its in the affected VIN range... while I have the front cover off, I'm wondering if I should pull the dowels out for preventative measures... Has anyone successfully done this before? How many miles has it been since you've done it? Whats the best way to remove the dowels and is there anything else I should know about it?

Or do I just say F-It and hope that I've got a 'good' one since I have 106k miles on it already?
 

MUSKYMAN

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
8,277
0
OverBarrington IL
I would not remove them if it has lived 106000 with them.

at what point would you consider it a good one?...I would long since have if it were mine.
 

lforgue8

Well-known member
Jul 23, 2006
1,216
0
MA
i agree with musky....if it lasted thign long then it should be fine.......removing dowels was NOT part of any Land Rover fix....replacing the engine was.........

id saw go for it ive got an 03 engine in mine and its been fine for 4 years!

knock on wood:D
 

MontrealRR90

Well-known member
May 21, 2004
1,582
0
62
Montreal,Canada
rmuller said:
I'm rebuilding a 2003 4.6 to put into my 2001, it has 106k miles on it, and hasnt had any problems with oil pressure, but its in the affected VIN range... while I have the front cover off, I'm wondering if I should pull the dowels out for preventative measures... Has anyone successfully done this before? How many miles has it been since you've done it? Whats the best way to remove the dowels and is there anything else I should know about it?

Or do I just say F-It and hope that I've got a 'good' one since I have 106k miles on it already?

Why would you want to rebuild a 4.6 that is in the Vin range ? There is no fix for this and it can go anytime. This has been all over the board at some point ? The only good fix is a 4.6 from a bosh engine P38 which has had no problems that i know of. Also we are on our 4th 4.6 rebuild at our shop so why rebuild something that is going to fail ?
 
I've got an '03 in the shop now that was driven by a doctor's wife (to be honest, she's a rocket scientist). The truck was babied and serviced regularly.

It was brought in for an oil change and SES lite. When I pulled it around behind the shop, I heard gurgling behind the dash...

Failed the block test for combustion gas in coolant. We'll have the block out today or tomorrow and off to the machine shop. It might be going up to Mark @ D&D for top hats.

It has 135K on it! Ran PERFECTLY except for the gurgling.
 

rmuller

Well-known member
Apr 28, 2004
4,452
1
Northern NJ
www.njlr.org
Does anyone know what the block numbers stamped onto the block mean? I'm not sure of the history of this engine through the first owner, not sure if its original or replaced... It has a '28' stamped on the front by the front cover, and CR9.37:1 and 08D05052A stamped on the top of the block by the dip stick.

The reason I'm using a block in that vin range is because I had it, it was pulled from my gf's old disco which was unfortunately totaled, and my block slipped a liner, so I needed an engine.. this is the cheapest way for now.
 
rmuller said:
Does anyone know what the block numbers stamped onto the block mean? I'm not sure of the history of this engine through the first owner, not sure if its original or replaced... It has a '28' stamped on the front by the front cover, and CR9.37:1 and 08D05052A stamped on the top of the block by the dip stick.

The reason I'm using a block in that vin range is because I had it, it was pulled from my gf's old disco which was unfortunately totaled, and my block slipped a liner, so I needed an engine.. this is the cheapest way for now.

The paper catalogs used to have a page that decoded the block casting numbers. Ever since I started using MicroCat, I haven't been able to find the magic decoder ring.

Be sure to drink your ovaltine.
 

carlosz

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
581
0
Annandale,Va
CR9.37:1 and 08D05052A
CR= compression ratio of 9.37 to 1
08= year of casting (I may be wrong on this one)
D = high output
05052 = serial number or build sequence
A = the factory where it was casted (I dont know off hand what location gets what letter but there are some 3 or 4 locations)
anyone correct me if im wrong, all of this is off the top of my head I dont know where my paper work is buried....