2010 LR4 timing chain, just installed have a question before bolt back up

jdsmith46

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Dec 23, 2005
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Yep. Just take it out of the package and put it on. I suppose if the sealant that’s kind of glued on to the cover looks ok just run it. I have no experience re using it.
So after careful examination the rubber seems a little hard for my liking. While it was not leaking before, I am right here and Murphy will have something to say about it for sure.
i did order the new seal to put into my plate. Plate was around 150 and I got the seal for $40 shipped with tax. I will make a tool to take it out tonight and get it ready. Again, thanks for all the little things that are big things.
There is waaaay to much oil in that area to take any chances as I drive a ton of road miles.
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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So after careful examination the rubber seems a little hard for my liking. While it was not leaking before, I am right here and Murphy will have something to say about it for sure.
i did order the new seal to put into my plate. Plate was around 150 and I got the seal for $40 shipped with tax. I will make a tool to take it out tonight and get it ready. Again, thanks for all the little things that are big things.
There is waaaay to much oil in that area to take any chances as I drive a ton of road miles.
Yeah I’ve just never chanced it. JLR has never questioned me replacing them.
 

pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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minnesota
Keep this thread going.
I was afraid the entire L319/320 generation will vanish into thin air without enough enthusiast attention.

You think?

Relatively speaking, they're pretty damn reliable.

They're also the last of the "boxy" generation, which I think will have an appreciation going forward since everyone and their mother pretty much only builds a curvy, aerodynamic SUV nowadays.
 
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jdsmith46

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Dec 23, 2005
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You think?

Relatively speaking, they're pretty damn reliable.

They're also the last of the "boxy" generation, which I think will have an appreciation going forward since everyone and their mother pretty much only builds a curvy, aerodynamic SUV nowadays.
I would rebuild this again and again. I am getting ready to crack 200,000 miles and it has been a great rig. All has been done under the truck to keep it perfect. I got this many miles on original tensioners and blades. Simply amazing!
 
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p m

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You think?

Relatively speaking, they're pretty damn reliable.

They're also the last of the "boxy" generation, which I think will have an appreciation going forward since everyone and their mother pretty much only builds a curvy, aerodynamic SUV nowadays.
Not for me.
 

Howski

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Oct 19, 2009
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I feel the LR3/4 has a strong following. I think there’s just less ingenuity with the platform and also fewer issues overall with them which maybe doesn’t incite as much interaction. Community seems to be more on Facebook than forums from what I see. It’s a compromise in driving experience of older Rovers for reliability and practicality. Don’t think those not exposed to earlier Rovers get this side of it. This platform is capable of going incredibly high mileage on the original drivetrain. Have seen several over 300k and 400k miles recently which makes it very appealing for a long term hold
 
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pinkytoe69

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Jan 14, 2012
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minnesota
Have seen several over 300k and 400k miles recently which makes it very appealing for a long term hold

How often do you have to replace timing chain stuff on the 4.4/4.2?

If rarely ever, it makes me wonder how and why they went from such a solid setup to the wear prone 5.0...
 
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discostew

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The 5.0 was the answer to the underpowered complaints and also if manufacturers kept the same engine for 2 decades all the engineers would be out of work.
 
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p m

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The 4.4 still feels like a rocket ship compared to the 4.0 RV8
Does it?
LR3: curb weight 5796 lbs, 296 hp, 313 lb*ft
RRC SWB: curb weight 4189 lbs, 175 hp, 236 lb*ft
RRC LWB: curb weight 4574 lbs, 200 hp, 251 lb*ft

For LR3 it translates into 19.6 lbs per horsepower, or 18.5 lbs per 1 lb*ft of torque (the latter is a good metric for acceleration).
Same numbers for SWB - 23.9 lbs/hp, 17.75 lbs/(lb*ft), and LWB - 22.9 lbs/hp, 18.21 lb/(lb*ft).

To me it suggests that unloaded Classics should accelerate better than an LR3. My short LR3 driving time kind of confirms that.

The D1 was halfway between the Classics in curb weight, so it is slower off the line than a short Classic.

LR4, on the other hand, will outrun any of the old ones without any caveats. Even loaded to the gills.
 

p m

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I think the 4.0 was to answer the complaints about us still using a pushrod engine when everyone else had overhead cams. That and engineers keeping jobs again.
Between 355 hp and 382 lb-ft from a pushrod Gen V LS 5.3, and 375 hp / 375 lb-fts from a Rube Goldberg AJ-133, I'd seriously consider a pushrod.
 

Howski

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I went straight from my D2 into an LR3 and it felt significantly peppier but that isn’t saying much. I guess the point is the more significant changes made in architecture between the 4.4 and 5.0 that didn’t pan out. Not to mention the noisy direct injection
 
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discostew

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Between 355 hp and 382 lb-ft from a pushrod Gen V LS 5.3, and 375 hp / 375 lb-fts from a Rube Goldberg AJ-133, I'd seriously consider a pushrod.
As shitty as that thing looks with 2 bathtub plugs in the last 2 cylinders, we have little trouble with it. At least not more trouble than the 5.0. I think the horsepower comparison is kind of eye opening about how underpowered the 4.4 was. But what you gain in a LR3 over the Disco is the transmission. The extra gears make the thing tow great.
 
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MM3846

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Feb 18, 2014
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Between 355 hp and 382 lb-ft from a pushrod Gen V LS 5.3, and 375 hp / 375 lb-fts from a Rube Goldberg AJ-133, I'd seriously consider a pushrod.

I've had a few LSXs and the 5.0 is way cooler. I guess that doesn't say anything about reliability, but with it being my only car it is cool to have a semi-exotic high revving V8. Its behaves a lot more like the Jaaaaaag it is than a truck.
 

jdsmith46

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Dec 23, 2005
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Anyone have all the torque specs for the parts in the timing chain job? Bolting it up tonight. Need torque for blades and tensioners screws. I have the torque for the variators
 

discostew

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Sep 14, 2010
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Northern Illinois
Anyone have all the torque specs for the parts in the timing chain job? Bolting it up tonight. Need torque for blades and tensioners screws. I have the torque for the variators
You already torqued those right? You took a torque wrench and loaded them to whatever spec they say, then while holding that you torque those actuators.
Then if you have the service instructions from JLR the spec for each bolt should be in there. Each step should have the spec for any bolts in that step.
 

jdsmith46

Well-known member
Dec 23, 2005
56
19
You already torqued those right? You took a torque wrench and loaded them to whatever spec they say, then while holding that you torque those actuators.
Then if you have the service instructions from JLR the spec for each bolt should be in there. Each step should have the spec for any bolts in that step.
Yes I took the half horseshoe tool and used torque wrench to the exhaust cam on the passenger side and intake cam on the drivers side.