You shouldn't need it if you're using a good quality & proper weight oil….. which you are right?
Have you checked it with a pressure gauge yet?
You could also overhaul your oil pump.
3.9 V8 oil pump.
- Thread starter gabriellaconi
- Start date
You shouldn't need it if you're using a good quality & proper weight oil….. which you are right?
Have you checked it with a pressure gauge yet?
You could also overhaul your oil pump.
So I ran the rangie for some time today and as im parking home, oil light comes back on!!! Once again, reving the engine a little gets rid of it. Should I star looking at over hauling the pump, and if so, what all is involved in this undertaking? I replaced the pressure switch and cleaned the pick up...
I usually open the pump and look at the gears. There is a check to ensure proper clearance between the gears and wall of the pump. Also look for scoring of the cover, they can be flattened with some light sandpaper and a good flat surface. Also, replace the contents of the pressure relief valve as a matter of course. Did you check the bearing clearances while you had the oil pan off?
Really, you need to stop doing anything until you get a mechanical pressure gauge on there.
Really, you need to stop doing anything until you get a mechanical pressure gauge on there.
If it has had an LT230 swapped in, then yes, 90wt. But if it still has the Borg Warner it takes ATF.
What kind of gauge its recommended, and where does it plug in? Does it take this space of the pressure switch? Our does it screw on that plug next to the switch? Any old oil pressure gauge from autozone? I was thinking of installing a pressure gauge in the cabin...as far as T-Case, im running the original borg, so I guess ATF...
You would remove the oil pressure sending unit and install a fitting in its' place to hook the gauge to. However, that requires a little creativity. Most gauge adapters are 1/8 NPT which is a tapered pipe thread which is self-sealing (NPT=National Pipe Thread.) The sending unit is a straight thread, (I believe it's metric) and seals with a copper washer, so you can't just screw in a gauge adapter, it won't seal very well and will likely bugger the threads. I wanted to check pressure on one of my Rovers once and made a temporary adapter out of an old sending unit, but it required a little fabrication. I just used a cheap gauge from O'Reilly's or something. If you want to install a gauge permanently inside the truck, you might want to install a tee so that you can still use the idiot light too. Take the sending unit out and take it down to the auto parts store, you want a real store, not a chain store like O'Reillys or VatoZone that hires kids who don't have a clue what they're doing if it's more complicated than looking it up on the computer screen, you need a real parts man who will take some time to find you the appropriate fittings.
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My 3.9 runs at 28psi at highway speeds and around 15psi at idle. This is fully warmed up and I am using Amsoil 10w-30 Z-rod oil.
What is your gauge showing?
What is your gauge showing?
just below 10 PSI at warm idle, maybe 8-9...15 PSI at 2,000 RPM. 12-15 PSI at cold idle.
I'm running Rottela Oil and a Fram filter. I will replace the filter with a Mahle and add a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer.
I'm running Rottela Oil and a Fram filter. I will replace the filter with a Mahle and add a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer.
Oil is not your problem. I'd look at the pump or deeper. Maybe you'll be lucky & find the relief valve stuck open.
Here's a couple good links to inspect the oil pump…
http://www.roversd1.info/3500/oilpump.html
http://www.richer-engineering.com/RRC/rrcoilpressure.php
I resurfaced the cover face with some wet/dry super fine paper (don't remember the grit 800 maybe higher) on a piece of glass with some oil. Hot idle is 15ish. Highway 35+.
Not to hijack…. but what is considered too high and at what pressure does the relief valve kick in?
Here's a couple good links to inspect the oil pump…
http://www.roversd1.info/3500/oilpump.html
http://www.richer-engineering.com/RRC/rrcoilpressure.php
I resurfaced the cover face with some wet/dry super fine paper (don't remember the grit 800 maybe higher) on a piece of glass with some oil. Hot idle is 15ish. Highway 35+.
Not to hijack…. but what is considered too high and at what pressure does the relief valve kick in?
I pulled out the gear housing, but managed to brake one of the screws...Does any body know what size these screws are? are they metric?
ptschram
Well-known member
Those pressures are not that bad.
I'd get rid of the Fram filter first, then check the pressure.
Yes, they really do cause low pressure.
I'd get rid of the Fram filter first, then check the pressure.
Yes, they really do cause low pressure.
I finished putting everything back together. Resurfaced the gear housing, replaced the filter replaced the pump gears and primed the pump (used the oil cooler fill method) after I felt a good prime with the drill I started the engine and got just over 25psi at cold idle. Once warm it was still at 20 psi at 2000 rpm it is 30 psi. Im happy with the results. I set the base idle and timmed the engine to 6* btdc. It is running good for now... still need to address the over correction of the front axle, I think I will put the stock radius arms back for now...
Some pictures of the procedure...
Old oil pump gear housing cover (note the score marks...)
Old oil pump gears (not a lot of noticeble wear, but i didnt measure them...)
Old oil pump gear housing cover (note the score marks...)
Old oil pump gears (not a lot of noticeble wear, but i didnt measure them...)