3x hella 4000's wiring diagram

[rovercanus]

I'm glad you added this line, you were worrying me

I'm an electrical technician. I actually do know what I'm talking about.

James, welding is a type of large gauge cable that is used for welders. It has thick insulation, is very flexible and stands up to abuse pretty well.

Musky, I like the negative switching idea as the Rovers (at least the D2) use this anyway.

 

[antichrist]

I'm an electrical technician. I actually do know what I'm talking about.

I was pretty sure you did. But people love taking things out of context. Would hate for someone to torch their car because of something they read here. "Hey, he said I could use 16 gauge, he never mentioned it depended on how long the distance was! I thought I just needed a bigger fuse. Now my car is toast."

welding is a type of large gauge cable that is used for welders. It has thick insulation, is very flexible and stands up to abuse pretty well.

Are you familar with Carol Vu-Tron welding cable? That's what I use, in vechicle wiring anyway. It has a higher temp rated insulation, is more resistant to oil, grease and other things under the bonnet, and has more conductor/strands. #4 has 1045/32 vs 374/30 for your typical welding cable.

 

[rovercanus]

I was pretty sure you did. But people love taking things out of context. Would hate for someone to torch their car because of something they read here. "Hey, he said I could use 16 gauge, he never mentioned it depended on how long the distance was! I thought I just needed a bigger fuse. Now my car is toast."


Are you familar with Carol Vu-Tron welding cable? That's what I use, in vechicle wiring anyway. It has a higher temp rated insulation, is more resistant to oil, grease and other things under the bonnet, and has more conductor/strands. #4 has 1045/32 vs 374/30 for your typical welding cable.

I've never used it. One day I plan on mounting an inverter in the rear and I'll look into this as a supply wire. Thanks.

 

[James Long]

Probably because he wanted advice but gave exactly zero amount of required information, claimed he knew the answer before he even posted (even though he says in this thread he's unfamilar with wiring), and got offended when he was given some facts that didn't jive with what he "knew". So now he needs a new thread because the other one didn't go right.

I actually did not think about it. and the other thread did go very well, because if it was not for it I would be splicing an inadequate relay. Thanks cor consistently being a d-bag.

 

[antichrist]

Thanks cor consistently being a d-bag.

:rofl: No problem. Good to see you continuing to name call when you're presented with facts you don't like.

 

[James Long]

what facts have you presented in this thread? none.

 

[antichrist]

what facts have you presented in this thread? none.

Really?

he wanted advice but gave exactly zero amount of required information,claimed he knew the answer before he even posted (even though he says in this thread he's unfamilar with wiring), and got offended when he was given some facts that didn't jive with what he "knew".

One by one:
1. "he wanted advice but gave exactly zero amount of required information"
You didn't provide the wattage requirements, wire size or length, even when asked, which are all required to say if a particular harness will suffice.

2. "claimed he knew the answer before he even posted"
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost.php?p=491207&postcount=7

3. "even though he says in this thread he's unfamilar with wiring"
Post #10 in this thread.

4. 'and got offended when he was given some facts that didn't jive with what he "knew" '
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showpost.php?p=491284&postcount=10
(Actually I guess I should have said "offensive", so I'll give you a 1/2 point for that one)

 

[gmookher]

well if the guy is looking to run 300 to 500watts on a single relay something like this will do it: that is if he wants overkill

http://www.fourthgen.net/relayscart70A5P.shtml


I dont see why a 40amp relay cant handle a 25 amp load from 300wats(divide by 12) ya gets 25 amps continous current

 

[James Long]

Thanks for all your help, I think I have got it, and a special thanks to you antichrist for being such a gaping asshole!

 

[MUSKYMAN]

well if the guy is looking to run 300 to 500watts on a single relay something like this will do it: that is if he wants overkill

http://www.fourthgen.net/relayscart70A5P.shtml


I dont see why a 40amp relay cant handle a 25 amp load from 300wats(divide by 12) ya gets 25 amps continous current

I'm sure you can...but the one I am running looks like this...you tell me the one that is more likely to melt and cause a fire

the plastic cased ones can heat up melt and fuse internally and go up in smoke...I have seen it first hand so having a buncha lights running off one in adverse conditions like bumping down crappy bumpy roads in the middle of no where I think over kill is the way to go.

but thats just me

 

[antichrist]

Thanks for all your help, I think I have got it, and a special thanks to you antichrist for being such a gaping asshole!

:rofl: No problem. Good to see you continuing to name call when you're presented with facts you don't like.

This is too easy.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

LOL...Tom Rowe your such a bad guy:rofl:

 

[antichrist]

I'm sure you can...but the one I am running looks like this...you tell me the one that is more likely to melt and cause a fire

Actually, if you're using a solenoid type relay as pictured, I see no reason to use three. Well, unless you want some redunancy so at least one or two lights work if your solenoid dies. But that's what the spares box is for, hey?
A Cole-Hersee makes a number of continuous duty marine solenoids that would do nicely, for pretty much any number of lights you would reasonably have. I use 4 of their 200amp continuous duty solenoids for my RE10000.

 

[antichrist]

LOL...Tom Rowe your such a bad guy:rofl:

Well..it's going to take me years to be at Dan's level, but everyone has to start somewhere.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

Actually, if you're using a solenoid type relay as pictured, I see no reason to use three. Well, unless you want some redunancy so at least one or two lights work if your solenoid dies. But that's what the spares box is for, hey?
A Cole-Hersee makes a number of continuous duty marine solenoids that would do nicely, for pretty much any number of lights you would reasonably have. I use 4 of their 200amp continuous duty solenoids for my RE10000.

being the simplistic guy I am...I am only using one for my three front lights and I wouldent be afraid to add 4 more on the roof rack to the same unit.

pretty sure in the golf cart application they are rated for 400peak amps...7 hella 4000's aint goint to hurt it.

 

[SGaynor]

I'm sure you can...but the one I am running looks like this...you tell me the one that is more likely to melt and cause a fire

the plastic cased ones can heat up melt and fuse internally and go up in smoke...I have seen it first hand so having a buncha lights running off one in adverse conditions like bumping down crappy bumpy roads in the middle of no where I think over kill is the way to go.

but thats just me

Clarification quesions from the wiring neophyte:

1) To wire the lights, you run say an 8ga wire to the solenoid, then 14ga wires from the solenoid to each light (in parallel)?

2) for the switch, you run the hot leg to the solenoid, then run the ground leg freom the solenoid through the firewall to the switch, then to a ground point? As opposed to running the hot wire from the battery to the switch to the solenoid?

Do I have that correct?

 

[gmookher]

yeppers

 

[antichrist]

Clarification quesions from the wiring neophyte:

1) To wire the lights, you run say an 8ga wire to the solenoid, then 14ga wires from the solenoid to each light (in parallel)?

That, or you can run another 8ga (or whatever size you need) to the first light, then from there to the second, and so on. Depends on how much wire you want to run and if you have easy access to 3-way connectors of the right size.

2) for the switch, you run the hot leg to the solenoid, then run the ground leg from the solenoid through the firewall to the switch, then to a ground point? As opposed to running the hot wire from the battery to the switch to the solenoid?

This only works if you have a solenoid that isn't grounded through the body of the solenoid. Some are, some aren't, but they will say, and the good ones will have a schematic available. See below.

 

[antichrist]

being the simplistic guy I am...I am only using one for my three front lights and I wouldent be afraid to add 4 more on the roof rack to the same unit.

I missed that. I really shouldn't try to post while I'm in a meeting. :rofl:

 

[SGaynor]

Cool...Thanks. :victory: