i'm running an RTE 3" lift and have been for about 4 years now. I'll check the pinion, but it just seems weird for it to all of a sudden change.
4.11 gears
- Thread starter DiscoveryXD
- Start date
yup, i used the spacers that came from RTE to set the pinion when i put the lift on.
i'll go check the oil level right now, but i did fill it on level ground.
i'll go check the oil level right now, but i did fill it on level ground.
oil level is good.
Nope, isn't pegged either.... I remember reading about that a while ago, seems like a smart idea!
Nope, isn't pegged either.... I remember reading about that a while ago, seems like a smart idea!
nope....
I've swapped out the stock and new DS and I still have the clanking noise when I float the gas pedal and coast the truck.
I've swapped out the stock and new DS and I still have the clanking noise when I float the gas pedal and coast the truck.
...and the new DS has new U-joints as well, right?
Sounds like pinion bearings but it's hard to imagine having 2 different diffs installed with bad bearings. Unless your killing them with inadequate lube.
I'd still check/tighten all trailing arm nuts/bolts and upper suspension link/ball joint.
Sounds like pinion bearings but it's hard to imagine having 2 different diffs installed with bad bearings. Unless your killing them with inadequate lube.
I'd still check/tighten all trailing arm nuts/bolts and upper suspension link/ball joint.
yup, I called up Tom Woods and gave them the measurement to build me a brand new shaft.
I used 75 w90 mobil 1 in my stock diffs with no problem... can't imagine the new 4.11's having this much of a problem with that oil.
I used 75 w90 mobil 1 in my stock diffs with no problem... can't imagine the new 4.11's having this much of a problem with that oil.
I'm gonna talk to a local shop in the morning about tearing the diff apart so they can see what it is.
I'm just pissed off that I'm going through all this bullshit after paying $5k in parts and I haven't even been able to really use the truck.
thanks for the help guys.
I'm just pissed off that I'm going through all this bullshit after paying $5k in parts and I haven't even been able to really use the truck.
thanks for the help guys.
DiscoveryXD said:
The first locker was an RD56 the second one was the new RD128.
Remove the rear driveshaft and drive around. Still whine? Then it's not the driveshaft.
With the driveshaft off still:
Jack up the right rear wheel and spin it... hear any noise from the hub? diff?
Jack up the left rear wheel and spin it.. hear any noise from the hub? diff?
I have the same problem as you right now. Whine in the rear diff. When I rotate the wheel by hand, it is actually more of a ticking sound. It only whines when things get rotating faster. Put a new locker in the same carrier and have the same problem. Visually inspecting the pinion bearings showed no scoring or other signs of wear. Noise only happens when coasting, off the throttle, (or driveshaft removed). Not looking to hijack your thread, just feeling your frustration.
Hope you get it figured out.
flyfisher11 said:
OOO, i thought this was more along the lines of what he would be into:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pegging_(sexual_practice)
Not trying to beat a dead horse but is there syn. oil in t-case?? If yes, for the twenty minutes and $10 worth of oil it could fix the problem. The reason I say this is that a customer had his truck serviced some where, they put the syn oil in and it screamed like a bad bearing all I did was change the fluid and it fixed the truck. Customer thought rear diff was bad but the noise was traveling through the driveshaft down to rear diff. Just my two cents. Hope you figure it out. Clanking noise, dont they all do that ?
~Corey
~Corey
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some lucas oil stabilizer will quiet down both a TC and a diff for sure
but lets not loose focus here.
the fact that the sound it throttle specific points to diff bearings and pinion bearings at that.
the best thing to do to prevent a severe issue would be to pull the diff and inspect those bearings. If the pinion bearing is the culprit and they fry the pinion will get scored and I would not expect a vendor to warrenty that if it were mine.
pinion bearings go bad in these things, many people have pointed that out in this thread and in the days this thread has gone on now the diff could have been pulled and the issue resolved.
Now one more thing...the air tube to the air collar should not have to cross over ring gear. the collar on a RD56 is located on the oposite side as the ring gear and the best location for the housing fitting is above the center of the carrier so the tube runs next to and around the carrier no where near the ring gear.
when you pull the diff pop a pic of the set up and maybe even run a pattern with some GM gear paste so we can see the gear pattern.
Thom
but lets not loose focus here.
the fact that the sound it throttle specific points to diff bearings and pinion bearings at that.
the best thing to do to prevent a severe issue would be to pull the diff and inspect those bearings. If the pinion bearing is the culprit and they fry the pinion will get scored and I would not expect a vendor to warrenty that if it were mine.
pinion bearings go bad in these things, many people have pointed that out in this thread and in the days this thread has gone on now the diff could have been pulled and the issue resolved.
Now one more thing...the air tube to the air collar should not have to cross over ring gear. the collar on a RD56 is located on the oposite side as the ring gear and the best location for the housing fitting is above the center of the carrier so the tube runs next to and around the carrier no where near the ring gear.
when you pull the diff pop a pic of the set up and maybe even run a pattern with some GM gear paste so we can see the gear pattern.
Thom
Thom, the noise I had was also throttle specific that was why I took apart the diff. I completely agree that it fits the pinion bearing symtoms but found nothing wrong with the diff so went to next most logical place the t-case. Pulled drain plug and gear oil was not what came out, changed the fluid and all was well. Just seems odd to have two bad diffs back to back.
Corey
Corey
Castrol HYPOY C SAE 80w-90 APIGL5,MT-1 That is what the drum has labeled on it. It is also what I run in the t-case and diffs in my own truck with an ARB in the rear diff.
Corey
Corey