hmmmm.... I called up Tom Woods and told them I needed a new shaft for my rover. Told them what lift I had, the distance from flange to flange, and that's what they built me. I just thought it would be better to upgrade to a stronger shaft too.
4.11 gears
- Thread starter DiscoveryXD
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MUSKYMAN said:
i was thinking his shaft was a standard u-joint shaft.
and yes Thom is right, you need to go higher .
on the throttle, the rear will rotate down, with your present setting,
it will make the angle worse on throttle.
needs to come up with the DC or lose the DC and go down.
as thom knows i'm not a fan of the DC in the rear.
i run a standard u-joint shaft and it works without rotating the spring perches...
Yes Marc and I differ on that point for sure, single cardan is way simpler but the pinion and rear ujoint are down in harms way....DC the pinion is much higher but the DC joint is much more dynamic and needs a higher level of maintainence.
where I wheel there are lots of rocks that roll around so having a higher pinion is a plus.
the rear pinion actually goes up under load the front pinion moves down...but none the less to run that style of shaft the pinion needs to be raised.
the way I would do it for sure would be to move the bushing back infront of the frame ears as they come from the factory and then use what ever spacer makes the angle zero degrees between the third member center line and the shaft.
under load the pinion will move less then the 3* margin that spicer reccomends.
where I wheel there are lots of rocks that roll around so having a higher pinion is a plus.
the rear pinion actually goes up under load the front pinion moves down...but none the less to run that style of shaft the pinion needs to be raised.
the way I would do it for sure would be to move the bushing back infront of the frame ears as they come from the factory and then use what ever spacer makes the angle zero degrees between the third member center line and the shaft.
under load the pinion will move less then the 3* margin that spicer reccomends.
I also did not know you were running a rear DC shaft.
Agreed-again, check your pinion angle. As Thom said, your pinion bearings may still be thrashed at this point.
However, I'd be a little concerned the right pinion angle to shaft may cause the pinion bearings to run dry. Not sure overfilling the diff is the right move either. I'd make sure your running some larger breathers with that ARB.
I'd be tempted to go back to your stock driveshaft with decent U-joints and put the pinion angle back to stock with appropriate spacers. Might be less probs in the long run with a pinion/Ujoint guard. Just lube and check U-joint condition frequently and carry extra U-joints on the trail-that's what I do.
Agreed-again, check your pinion angle. As Thom said, your pinion bearings may still be thrashed at this point.
However, I'd be a little concerned the right pinion angle to shaft may cause the pinion bearings to run dry. Not sure overfilling the diff is the right move either. I'd make sure your running some larger breathers with that ARB.
I'd be tempted to go back to your stock driveshaft with decent U-joints and put the pinion angle back to stock with appropriate spacers. Might be less probs in the long run with a pinion/Ujoint guard. Just lube and check U-joint condition frequently and carry extra U-joints on the trail-that's what I do.
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well I don't like the idea of just not using my $400 new driveshaft.... I guess I could sell it...
Thom, have you experienced any problems with the pinion bearing since your angle is so high?
I guess all I can do is raise the angle and hope everything is ok... I may just send the driveshaft back to tom woods just in case i ruined the u joints.
Thom, have you experienced any problems with the pinion bearing since your angle is so high?
I guess all I can do is raise the angle and hope everything is ok... I may just send the driveshaft back to tom woods just in case i ruined the u joints.
the u-joints will be fine those gold seal joints he sells are the best made.
also I have been running a double cardan rear shaft for 5 years now. I am currently on a 5" lift and my pinion bearings are just fine. and trust me my pinion is pointed way up there on that lift.
move your bushing, select the coreect spacer and see what happens...
also I have been running a double cardan rear shaft for 5 years now. I am currently on a 5" lift and my pinion bearings are just fine. and trust me my pinion is pointed way up there on that lift.
move your bushing, select the coreect spacer and see what happens...
oh...one more thing...I had a clanging going on at one point and it turned out to be the dust sheild on the pinion that had popped loose...check that as well.
ok, thanks guys. I put in some lucas (50/50) and the truck isn't moving an inch until i check the angle and get it set right. I've got all day saturday to play with this thing if I have to.
so the pinion measures out at 7 degrees above horizontal and the DS is at 11.
I'm gonna take the spacers out tonight after work and see where that puts me.
I'm gonna take the spacers out tonight after work and see where that puts me.
yes pinion needs to come up 4* to be perfect
because your bushing is behind the frame ear moving it back infront will act the same as removing a spacer.
because your bushing is behind the frame ear moving it back infront will act the same as removing a spacer.
well I removed the spacer since I couldn't put the bushing in front of the ear. I have my frame sliders there.... It looks to be about 1.5* off.
I test drove it and there's still a noise there when i'm at nuetral throttle, but I think it's the driveline. I grabbed it and tried to move it around and it did feel a tad bit loose. I'm gonna send it in to tom woods and have them replace the u joints, I think i just ruined it driving around like that with the old diff.
I test drove it and there's still a noise there when i'm at nuetral throttle, but I think it's the driveline. I grabbed it and tried to move it around and it did feel a tad bit loose. I'm gonna send it in to tom woods and have them replace the u joints, I think i just ruined it driving around like that with the old diff.
Drive it with the driveshaft off and see if the noise goes away. If it doesn't, it isn't your driveshaft.
flyfisher11 said:
I took the rear driveline off and things are quite. The lower single u joint on the shaft is bad. I can feel the play in it just by grabbing it and twisting it back and forth. I just finished packaging it up right now and it will be on its way to Tom Woods in the morning.
well, i talked to Tom himself and he said the joints were replaced and then it was triple balanced. I got the shaft yesterday and just put it on tonight. The pinion is at 9* and the drivshaft is at 10*. So that's within the 0-3 range. I drove the truck and there's still a bit of a small noticable whine around nuetral throttle. A noise that wasn't there at all when the driveshaft was away getting fixed. so what to do now, i dont know.....:sniff:
Matt,
If you jack up a rear wheel and turn it while laying under the truck, can you locate where the noise is coming from? Wheel bearings? Diff? Driveshaft?
Have you engaged and disengaged your locker a few times to insure that the gears are aligned. The RD128 has some monster gears in there. If the locker is locked, does the noise go away?
Is it from the rear axle for certain, or is there a possibility that it might be coming from the TC?
Craig
If you jack up a rear wheel and turn it while laying under the truck, can you locate where the noise is coming from? Wheel bearings? Diff? Driveshaft?
Have you engaged and disengaged your locker a few times to insure that the gears are aligned. The RD128 has some monster gears in there. If the locker is locked, does the noise go away?
Is it from the rear axle for certain, or is there a possibility that it might be coming from the TC?
Craig
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yeah....
If its the driveshaft, then I will be happy. It's the damn expensive diff I'm worried about. It's the 2nd one and I don't want to fuck this one up too.
If its the driveshaft, then I will be happy. It's the damn expensive diff I'm worried about. It's the 2nd one and I don't want to fuck this one up too.
craig said:
it's only at higher speeds. Around 35 and up that I hear the whining noise when I float the drivetrain.