4.6 / 4.0 swap

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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you sure thats not "4.0" marked on the piston?


Don't think so. I'm pretty sure they read "0.40"...






Been working the 4.0 on the stand. Pulled the 4.0 front cover off and the 4.6 front cover seems to fit, however, also need to swap over the 4.6 oil pan to the 4.0 due to the elongated bolt pattern of the 4.6 front cover.


To limit upfront expenses on this experiment, I'm going to leave the 4.0 heads on for now just to see if this will work, which means I have to swap over the head covers from the 4.6 to the 4.0, which seem to fit okay. I'll have to deal with the SAI system errors temporarily.


If it works, I'll go ahead and buy a set of head gaskets, etc... and finish swapping the heads over too.


In the process of swapping over the 4.6 intake manifold and ignition system. Fun!


Thanks for the info guys. It is a great help.
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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I have everything swapped over to the 4.0 block. Most everything lined up pretty good.


However, I see what you all were talking about with the crank position mount issue...


Best way to change that out looks to be to cut the welds holding the back side of the mount to the block, replace with a 4.6 mount and reweld...


Anybody know an easier way? I don't have a spare 4.6 mount at the moment. It's still in the 4.6 block that's up at the shop to see if it can be saved.
 

jafir

Well-known member
May 4, 2011
1,628
0
Northwest Arkansas
I believe Peter used a gems block in a Bosch vehicle and just redrilled the mount. But he's in the UK and has a 5 speed and I think the sensors might be different.
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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There is even a part number for it.

Bosch: EIQ100020
Gems: ERR3693
Roll pin: ERR4157


You know, re-reading through posts is a good idea.


Dang that is useful info, thanks!


Guess I didn't really know what you guys were talking about until I really got into the project.


Out of stock at Atlantic British, but will keep looking.
 

jymmiejamz

Well-known member
Dec 5, 2004
6,010
362
35
Los Angeles, Ca
Best way to change that out looks to be to cut the welds holding the back side of the mount to the block, replace with a 4.6 mount and reweld...

Yes, that is the best way. You can also epoxy it in place, but I wouldn't recommend it considering the amount of work to fix it if the epoxy fails.
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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I finally acquired the 4.6 crank position sensor mount and should have it installed in the 4.0 block by sometime next week.


I will be finishing bolting on the front cover and oil pan before hand and am wondering if it would be a good idea to take the oil pump assembly apart prior to that and pack it with Vaseline. It was working just fine on the 4.6 prior to taking the front cover off that block.


Don't want to disassemble something that was working previously, if I don't have to.
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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You did change the cam gears too?



No, thank you for reminding about that.


I did some reading on that topic and seems like it will run without changing the gear, but the engine will not quite feel right...


Can I basically just swap out the cam gear and timing chain assembly from my 4.6 to the 4.0 block?
 

rovercanus

Well-known member
Apr 24, 2004
9,651
246
No, thank you for reminding about that.


I did some reading on that topic and seems like it will run without changing the gear, but the engine will not quite feel right...


Can I basically just swap out the cam gear and timing chain assembly from my 4.6 to the 4.0 block?

It's cheap, why not get a new set?
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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GA
You convinced me. I'll swap that over too.




What about the oil pump? just attach the 4.6 timing cover to the 4.0 block, reinstall engine, fill with oil and go?


Or disassemble oil pump, pack with Vaseline, then go?
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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The 4.0 motor is finally in the Rover... Just have to hook up all the attachments.


One problem I ran into was that it appears my welding job on the Crank Position Sensor mount wasn't perfect.


The mount went in and lined up on the pin just fine, so I thought I was good to go, but the heat shield won't fit correctly.


At this point, I'm hoping the crank position sensor, being in the ball park of where it supposed to be, will accurately sense the flywheel.


I also discovered that the knock sensors are different. Having to source the sensor mount studs (part #LYR100740).


Everything else has matched up pretty good.
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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Fired it up today and it started up and idled just like I'd hoped it would.


Took much longer than I had planned and there are still some coolant issues to resolve,,,,


but the 4.0 transplant worked!
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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You will almost certainly find a small crack behind the liner. There are no cooling ports on cylinder five, so a head gasket leak would not cause that. Its possible that the head is cracked, but highly unlikely. FWIW I have had two different machine shops tell me that you can just put a new liner in without actually fixing the crack, but I've never tried that. You can have the crack welded and then have a new liner put or just go with another block.


That is exactly what we found. The cylinder wall behind the sleeve on number 5 has a very large crack.


Got a quote for around $1,000 to resleeve all eight cylinders, plus cost to rebuild...


I'm going to go with the 4.0 that seems to be working for now. Just have to iron out the cooling system issue.
 

SMLE

Well-known member
Aug 21, 2014
107
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GA
An update for anybody searching engine swaps in the future.

After about 3,000 miles, the swap seems to have been a success. Had an apparent vacuum leak, causing it to run lean, but that problem eventually went away by itself...