95 D1 - Alarm ECU

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DenisMcG

Guest
I had been having problems with the remote locks on my D1, so I got a used ECU form Will Tillery a few months ago. It was working fine until yesterday when after I slammed the passanger door a little too hard. The hazard lights started blinking and will not go off. I switched the ECU to my old one, and the blinkers went out, but the door locks won't work. If I hol the old ECU on about a 45 degree angle, it works fine. As soon as it moves from that angle it won't work. The newer ECU keeps the hazard lights flashing. What I would really like to do, is disable the alarm function, but keep the remote locks. I have attached a pic of the ECU. Would someone be able to identify components A and B. I suspect that one is the alarm sensor.

Thanks,

Denis
 

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DenisMcG

Guest
I would like to keep the central door locks if able. Also, I believe it won't start if I just unplug the ecu.
 
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DenisMcG

Guest
It turns out that Part A is a Motion Sensor. Part B is a relay and may also be used to lock/unlock the doors. I may do some component swaps from one board to the next to see if my problem can be solved. I really just want the door locks to work.

Denis
 
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DenisMcG

Guest
I have made some progress, I've managed to get all of the alarm functions working, but not the door locks. I've checked the door lock fuse and also temporarily grounded the yk wire at the theft alarm unit. The fuse is good with 12V. Nothing happens when I ground the yk wire.

Denis


PS. The Disco will start if I disconnect the black 16 pin connector, but will not start if I remove the white 6 pin.
 
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DenisMcG

Guest
A quick update on my Locks/Alarm woes. As suggested, I totally removed the Theft Alarm ecu. However, the truck would not turn over. I studied the schematics on the Rave CD, and searched dweb carefully. It turns out that Pin 1 on the 6 Pin connector (C274) searches for a ground via the ecu and the neutral safety switch. I simply grounded the wire on pin 1 and the trucks starts. As for the locks, If I momentarily apply 12V to the orange wire and ground to the pink, the doors lock, reverse the polarity and the doors unlock. So, I will install an aftermarket keyless entry and a few relays and the problem should be solved. Or I might just get one of those systems off ebay that have the door lock actuators in the kit and replace everything.

Denis
 
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billericayboy

Guest
Hi, i see you have been having fun with your alarm / door lock controller - HOw did you get on ?

I need to remove my controller and fit a after market alarm with door lock control and wondered if you could give me any advice or assistance.

Many thanks

Rich.
 

Viggen

Well-known member
Jul 1, 2009
274
0
va
Okay, Im bringing this back from the dead. Im having the same sort of problem and would love to simplify things by just yanking that stupid ecu. I do, however, need to retain the horn for the safety inspection. Can I pull the ecu, ground the number one pin so that the truck functions as it should and then keep full functionality of the horn or do I need to wire up some sort of extra horn button? My central locking and alarm ONLY work when its wet outside. Would love to figure something out before the weekend so I can get it all taken care of.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,733
1,024
Northern Illinois
It may be as simple as the inertia switch on the right side of the bulkhead in the engine compartment. Slamming your pass. front door could have tripped stage one of the switch.
 

Viggen

Well-known member
Jul 1, 2009
274
0
va
Well, the truck runs and operates as it should but I guess Ill check the switch anyway. The symptoms sound like the ones in this thread but Im the opposite as I want to permanently disable the central locking/ alarm system. I dont necessarily want to remove all of the system, as that sounds too much like work but want the madness to end.

So, PT. If I unhook the alarm computer behind the glovebox completely and then ground the number 1 pin on the smaller white connector, I should have a fully operating truck with the exception of the horn? If thats the case, I will rig up an external horn button to meet the requirements of safety inspection.

Thanks.
 
Since I first posted in this thread, I learned that the truck I was working on had more problems and that was why it ran without the alarm ECU.

You can remove whatever parts of the circuit you wih as long as you preserve the neutral safety function-which is how I finally figured out what was wrong with the truck.

Ground the black yellow wire on pin one, this completes the circuit for the neutral safety switch.

Disconnect the purple-orange wire on pin three to remove the alarm from the horn circuit.
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
You know its a good day wheeling when you trip stage 1 of the inertia switch. :D :D
Finishing a rock climb with your hazards on is like a badge of honor. :cool:
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,733
1,024
Northern Illinois
fishEH said:
You know its a good day wheeling when you trip stage 1 of the inertia switch. :D :D
Finishing a rock climb with your hazards on is like a badge of honor. :cool:

Ya I like the way you think , so when that happens do you take out the alarm ecu and pour beer in it like I do ? If I'm out of beer I piss on it , If I dont have to piss I just rub the head of my pecker on it. If none of that fixes it I just press the inertia switch. But thats usually hours later .
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
discostew said:
Ya I like the way you think , so when that happens do you take out the alarm ecu and pour beer in it like I do ? If I'm out of beer I piss on it , If I dont have to piss I just rub the head of my pecker on it. If none of that fixes it I just press the inertia switch. But thats usually hours later .

Haha. Maybe its not the inertia switch. Usually shutting the truck off then restarting fixes it for me. ;)