-95 DI hesitates at low revs and idle.
- Thread starter 1784
- Start date
Just received a re-built distributor I found on eBay (~$325). The guy who was to swap it out for me said it had the same play that the old one had (the shaft moves in and out). He thought that was not right.
Also, the weights, springs, etc were in the box but not installed. Thought I got a bad deal and it would have been cheper to just order a rebuild kit from the local Land Rover dealer.
Should there be any up/down (or in/out) play in the shaft?
thanx
DanDan
Also, the weights, springs, etc were in the box but not installed. Thought I got a bad deal and it would have been cheper to just order a rebuild kit from the local Land Rover dealer.
Should there be any up/down (or in/out) play in the shaft?
thanx
DanDan
Did some more tests today:
1. Started up from cold (about 25 degF) no problems, but started to cut-out as usual soon after start-up. If left at idle the cutting out is enough for the engine to stall, but if some revs applied it keeps going.
2. Had fuel pressure gauge connected and there is no drop in fuel pressure when the engine cut's out.
3. Removed MAF plug and restarted, still cuts out in same fashion.
4. Put jumpwire with ground to coil/amp bracket, still same cutting out.
5. Removed temp sensor plug, seemed to improve, but by then it had warmed up enough to stop cut out anyway.
6. Drove a small distance, no issues.
My conclusions:
- Fuel pump, pipes, filter and power to pump is OK.
- MAF is not culprit since cutting out is happening without it connected.
- Coil, amp and their ground is OK
- Still suspects are temp. sensor, ECU and distributor???
I don't seem to be able to locate a "non-ferrous" gauge for the air gap, all shops here just seems to have the normal metal ones.
I will buy a ign. stroboscope tomorrow to connect and see what happens to that when cutting out starts, should be interesting to know if it's a spark problem or injectors either not opening or opening too much.
As far as fuel pressure drop I think I wrote before that it drops to about 20 psi after 30 min. That seems to be within LR spec but of course one or several injectors could still be out of spec.
Thanks!
1. Started up from cold (about 25 degF) no problems, but started to cut-out as usual soon after start-up. If left at idle the cutting out is enough for the engine to stall, but if some revs applied it keeps going.
2. Had fuel pressure gauge connected and there is no drop in fuel pressure when the engine cut's out.
3. Removed MAF plug and restarted, still cuts out in same fashion.
4. Put jumpwire with ground to coil/amp bracket, still same cutting out.
5. Removed temp sensor plug, seemed to improve, but by then it had warmed up enough to stop cut out anyway.
6. Drove a small distance, no issues.
My conclusions:
- Fuel pump, pipes, filter and power to pump is OK.
- MAF is not culprit since cutting out is happening without it connected.
- Coil, amp and their ground is OK
- Still suspects are temp. sensor, ECU and distributor???
I don't seem to be able to locate a "non-ferrous" gauge for the air gap, all shops here just seems to have the normal metal ones.
I will buy a ign. stroboscope tomorrow to connect and see what happens to that when cutting out starts, should be interesting to know if it's a spark problem or injectors either not opening or opening too much.
As far as fuel pressure drop I think I wrote before that it drops to about 20 psi after 30 min. That seems to be within LR spec but of course one or several injectors could still be out of spec.
Thanks!
Hooked up a ign. timing light on main HT lead from coil and one of those small lights that goes between spark plug and wire on no.1 plug.
First try did not give any results, engine started fine and no cutting out both lights were flashing as expected. But when I went out today, it would not start. No flashing on any light. Measured voltages on coil according to manual and they were as expected. Measured pick up resistance and got inconsistant results but mostly infinite resistance (makes you think you have not managed to make good contact with the probes). Reconnected wires and suddenly it fired up like nothing but every time it cut out for half a second the timing light went out as well.
Measured pick up coil again and this time 3 kohms as expected.
What could it else be than pick-up? Coil and ign amp are new.
I'll try to warm pick-up a bit with a hot air gun when it does not start next time, to see if it's temp related. Seems so...
I'm quite sure it's ign related now, because there is no indication of running rich once it fires.
Greatful for any thoughts.
First try did not give any results, engine started fine and no cutting out both lights were flashing as expected. But when I went out today, it would not start. No flashing on any light. Measured voltages on coil according to manual and they were as expected. Measured pick up resistance and got inconsistant results but mostly infinite resistance (makes you think you have not managed to make good contact with the probes). Reconnected wires and suddenly it fired up like nothing but every time it cut out for half a second the timing light went out as well.
Measured pick up coil again and this time 3 kohms as expected.
What could it else be than pick-up? Coil and ign amp are new.
I'll try to warm pick-up a bit with a hot air gun when it does not start next time, to see if it's temp related. Seems so...
I'm quite sure it's ign related now, because there is no indication of running rich once it fires.
Greatful for any thoughts.
Wow what a lot of work! Hopefully I wont jinx my 95 by reading this thread. It has been dropping its idle speed recently and stalled out at idle.....
I'm with you on electrical. I'll discount a worn ignition switch for now. Has the alternator been checked? Wierd voltages can cause strange things to happen with a car. No codes I presume?
I'm with you on electrical. I'll discount a worn ignition switch for now. Has the alternator been checked? Wierd voltages can cause strange things to happen with a car. No codes I presume?
Chris Browne said:
Have you checked the most obvious idle air control valve? It's known to stick or at least not move as it should and need cleaning or replacement.
When mine starts to cut out I can hear the valve open up more and more to compensate and it revs up a bit when it catches again.
Ignition switch seems to be OK, have the electrical part of it in my hand and it seems to have no effect if it's moved about. So it seems to check out.
Not checked alt except that it charges as normal (about 14v) but of course it could be sending out some "ripple" which causes the ignition to fail.
Maybe I'm jinxed.
Drove the truck briefly today. Stopped. Out of truck for an hour get in turn key, all the lights come on then Everything EVERYTHING went out not an oz of power. I suspected a battery cell failure.
Three hours later EVERYTHINGS fine.
No recent work on truck.
Wierd. Suggestions?
Drove the truck briefly today. Stopped. Out of truck for an hour get in turn key, all the lights come on then Everything EVERYTHING went out not an oz of power. I suspected a battery cell failure.
Three hours later EVERYTHINGS fine.
No recent work on truck.
Wierd. Suggestions?
The story continues...
Tried to warm pick-up in dist. with hot air gun on to see if it cured cut out after cold start, it did not. Still spark dissapears at half second intervals. Then i pointed the hot air towards the new ign amp and this seemed to have effect. Swapped back to old ign amp and hey, it starts fine and no cut outs
. Drove OK as well.
Could it have been the coil that I changed first that was the culprit but by the time I changed it, the engine was too flooded and it was not until the new ign amp went in that I was more persistant in getting it started...
Well, now to the final test, tomorrow I'll put wife in it and see how it goes :smash:
BTW, mostly updating this thread as some sort of meditation, to get frozen fingers to start moving again and as some trouble shooting log, not really expecting anyone to be able to follow all events (not even I can...) and give input.
Thanks!
Tried to warm pick-up in dist. with hot air gun on to see if it cured cut out after cold start, it did not. Still spark dissapears at half second intervals. Then i pointed the hot air towards the new ign amp and this seemed to have effect. Swapped back to old ign amp and hey, it starts fine and no cut outs
. Drove OK as well. Could it have been the coil that I changed first that was the culprit but by the time I changed it, the engine was too flooded and it was not until the new ign amp went in that I was more persistant in getting it started...
Well, now to the final test, tomorrow I'll put wife in it and see how it goes :smash:
BTW, mostly updating this thread as some sort of meditation, to get frozen fingers to start moving again and as some trouble shooting log, not really expecting anyone to be able to follow all events (not even I can...) and give input.
Thanks!
OK, wife has now driven the Disco for a couple of days, no issues at all (except the ign lock still broken, starter switch is hanging out from panel and being turned by a small screwdriver)
Conclusion for future ref:
1. Problems were ignition related all the time.
2. Most probably it was the coil that caused initial hesitation problems when running and then a faulty new ign module caused starting problems and cutting out when cold. Alternatively a bad electrical connection somewhere which I managed to correct while messing around.
Great, now it's just to fix that leaking exhaust, broken ign. lock, front brakes, vibrating U-joints and get that winch bumper mounted... Then we are ready for new problems...
Thanks!
Conclusion for future ref:
1. Problems were ignition related all the time.
2. Most probably it was the coil that caused initial hesitation problems when running and then a faulty new ign module caused starting problems and cutting out when cold. Alternatively a bad electrical connection somewhere which I managed to correct while messing around.
Great, now it's just to fix that leaking exhaust, broken ign. lock, front brakes, vibrating U-joints and get that winch bumper mounted... Then we are ready for new problems...
Thanks!