96 D1 Front Driver's Door Power Lock Not Locking w/ Remote

[colddude]

Slightly off topic...I think my 98 D1 is heading the same way. Currently all the door locks (lock or unlock) are working but very, very sluggish.

It has about 110kmiles. At first I thought maybe it's the vaccum system dying (my cruise control does not stay engaged consistently), but after searching the forum I am thinking it's got to be the actuators.

Before I order the actuators, can someone let me know if there is anything I should check first?

I presume the wiring and everything else is ok since the locks still work. albeit very slowly.

 

[KevLar]

I don't know about you, but I'm enjoying this thread. A lot of thorough info on how a actuator operates and functions. So far what are the cliff notes (add as you wish)

• If a actuator stops working, first check for proper linkage adjustment or a broken wire in the door harness
• If both the above have been confirmed good, then it's likely to be a bad actuator.
• Bench test actuator to confirm it's not working and double check for proper voltage at the actuator harness.
• You can repair the actuator for as little as $12 for five eBay motors or $5 for one Parts Express actuator. Both with its pros/cons.
• Replacing a motor will involve disassembing the actuator and minor internal work to swap the motor and gear. But everything will re-install in its original location and OEM harness.
• Installing a Parts Express actuator will involve minor fabrication to mount the actuator and splicing of wires. But no internal work needed.
• Six of one, half dozen of the other.

Kev, if you pay for postal, I'm more than willing to send you a motor for free. My way of making it up to you for originally telling you to crack open the actuator. Even though it looks like I may have been correct from the beginning

Thanks CM, that is a very kind and generous offer, and please don't worry about the fact that I took my actuator apart ! There's no harm done and I learned a lot in the process

As I said, I am still working on the problem which might in fact be related to bad linkage alignment, so let me finish my fiddling to confirm that, and I will get back to you about the outcome. I am a little busy at the moment repairing a set of ABS sensors for another DiscoWeb member. I want to get that finished in the next few days, and once I have those off to him by mail, I'll be able to get back to the actuator...

Your summary of the troubleshooting process is nice and succinct, so hopefully people will find it first when they run into problem with their locking system ! It's sort of amazing how much time and human energy has gone into such a simple and non-essential system which is only a minute part of a larger complex system ! It reminds me of my early school days in engineering design... As the professor said, "When you arrive here, you think you can design a car. When you leave, you are not sure you can design a door handle."

Thanks again !

Kev

 

[KevLar]

Slightly off topic...I think my 98 D1 is heading the same way. Currently all the door locks (lock or unlock) are working but very, very sluggish.

It has about 110kmiles. At first I thought maybe it's the vaccum system dying (my cruise control does not stay engaged consistently), but after searching the forum I am thinking it's got to be the actuators.

Before I order the actuators, can someone let me know if there is anything I should check first?

I presume the wiring and everything else is ok since the locks still work. albeit very slowly.

The '98 is a D1, so presumably it has the same locking system as the '96 which has been the focus of this thread.

However, your particular problem does not sound even remotely similar to the typical problems people have had with their locking system... Most of the reports I'm aware of relate to a specific door not locking. That can then be traced back to either a problem with the actuator (motor fried or corroded), a problem with the wiring (usually inside the door where the up/down window cycling wears through the wire insulation), or a problem with the locking linkage (out of alignment and no longer able to engage the lock).

In your case, you describe a sluggish behavior... Based on what I've discovered by ripping the master (driver's door) door lock actuator apart, here's what might be happening.

The master actuator motor might be on its way to dying due to corrosion, heat damage or wear. Since the other doors are controlled by the movement of this actuator's shaft which triggers an internal switch that sets off the actuators in the other doors, then a "slow" motor in the main door would mean that the other door locks would be engaged after a slightly longer delay. However, if we assume that the master actuator in the only one that has a deteriorated motor, then what should happen is that the driver's door would be sluggish, but when the actuator shaft finally triggers the switch for the other doors, then they should open normally (e.g.: fairly quickly).

An ailing motor is one explanation, but it's possible that something else is responsible for the sluggishness... Perhaps the plastic gears inside the actuator are worn and the shaft is slipping while it extends and retracts, leading to a longer cycle time ? Perhaps the power to the motor is reduced (low amps in the battery ?) and consequently it is not turning as quickly ? Perhaps the linkage is binding or some component(s) need lubrication, leading to a slower cycle time ?

It seems that there might be a number of causes for your problem, and they don't necessarily point to a motor issue. So it would be helpful to know more before you decide to replace the actuators, which are VERY expensive !

First, confirm whether the locking is sluggish when you unlock the vehicle from cold compared to how the locking behaves when the vehicle has been driven and the battery is presumably up to full charge... There might be a relationship between the sluggish door locks and the cruise control, which has something to do with insufficient electrical power ?

I would listen very closely to the driver's door and the other doors when you unlock the truck with the remote, to see if the other doors unlock quickly compared to the driver's door. You should also use the key on the driver's door to see if the locking mechanism is difficult to turn. Together, this might give you some clues which help focus in on the problem without tearing anything apart. Hopefully something above will help to confirm whether the problem is limited to a single actuator (likely the master in the driver's door), or affects all the actuators. This information will also provide more clues as to the cause since it's unlikely that all 5 motors are "sick", therefore 5 sluggish actuators would probably indicate an electrical power problem.

If the above does not help narrow down the cause, then I would remove the panel on the driver's door and inspect the actuator and linkage. If you want to observe the operation of the door locks while testing, make sure that you push in the door light switch on the front door post, or the alarm will go off when you lock the doors !

By observing the actuator while it is being cycled, you should be able to determine if it is working correctly or not. If it seems OK, then grab one of the rods of the door lock linkage and move it up & down (or in & out) to see if it's relatively free to move or if there's a lot of resistance. Resistance would indicate wear or lack of lubrication somewhere in the linkage or inside the lock. Also, make sure to disconnect the linkage from the actuator shaft so that what you feel is only the resistance of the linkage and not the resistance of the actuator. While you have the actuator shaft disconnected from the rest of the linkage, cycle the actuator again and see if it behaves much differently without a load. This will help confirm whether resistance in the linkage is the problem.

If nothing comes from all that, then the next step would be to remove the actuator and do some more in depth testing, for example, looking at the voltage and current being supplied to the actuator, listening closely to the actuator in a quiet place to see if it is operating smoothly, etc.

Start with the above, and get back to us !

Kev

 

[CandiMan]

Slightly off topic...I think my 98 D1 is heading the same way. Currently all the door locks (lock or unlock) are working but very, very sluggish.

It has about 110kmiles. At first I thought maybe it's the vaccum system dying (my cruise control does not stay engaged consistently), but after searching the forum I am thinking it's got to be the actuators.

Before I order the actuators, can someone let me know if there is anything I should check first?

I presume the wiring and everything else is ok since the locks still work. albeit very slowly.

When you say sluggish, are you saying there's a significant delay between when you hit the lock/unlock button on the remote to when the doors locks actually mover up/down? Or are you saying when you hit the lock/unlock button on the remote the doors locks moves right away but very slow (sluggish) up or down?

If it's the second scenerio, I would say it's a voltage supply problem. The input voltage to the Central Locking System is either low (there's some volts, but not the proper amount) or the input voltage to the CLS is within spec but the output voltage to the actuators are below spec. What I would be looking for is loose connections on both the positive and negative side of the entire locking system circuit.

I can't give any more advise than that because I'm still learning the system myself.

 

[Roverjoe]

If your actuators are making noise, then it's most likely broken lock springs.

Once again, before even considering actuators make sure the linkage is working accurately. I'm telling you guys if you add up the moving parts in the actuator vs. the moving parts in the lock linkage, the lock linkage is going to lose every time.

 

[colddude]

Thanks KevLar/CandiMan for the detail response, you make me rethink what's going on...so I am observing/learning as I go...

- my original "sluggish" comment was referring to the dock lock plungers moving up or down slowly/weakly after I hit the key fob (lock or unlock). They are not snappy at all. It would appear the motors are not powerful enough to move the locking mechanisms

- I do notice further after reading KevLar's post that it is worst in the morning (unlocking), but better during the day. I parked outside with overnight temperatures in mid/low-30's. After I drive the car some as in this weekend, the locks would work better. I will take note again tomorrow morning

- I noticed that when I unlock the car (key fob), the yellow blinkers don't work (it should but hasn't in quite a # of months). When I lock the car (key fob), the blinkers do work to provide the expected feedback...

Having observed all that, I am starting to think there may be a voltage problem as KavLar and Candiman pointed out (worst in the morning, better during the day after some use). And the lack of blinker action during unlocking seems to suggest some other problem.

 

[KevLar]

Thanks KevLar/CandiMan for the detail response, you make me rethink what's going on...so I am observing/learning as I go...

...SNIP...

Having observed all that, I am starting to think there may be a voltage problem as KevLar and Candiman pointed out (worst in the morning, better during the day after some use). And the lack of blinker action during unlocking seems to suggest some other problem.

Keep at it, and we can try to provide feedback as you find out more

Another point: I know for sure that my turn signal lights flash 3 times when I lock the truck with the fob (and also with the key I think), but I can't remember if the lights flash at all when I unlock the truck... My truck is at home so I can't check, but it would be nice for someone to confirm this since it might be a non-issue.

Kev

 

[CandiMan]

I can confirm, my lights flashes 3x only when the system is armed (with FOB or key in door) It does not flash when dis-armed.

 

[KevLar]

I can confirm, my lights flashes 3x only when the system is armed (with FOB or key in door) It does not flash when dis-armed.

Thanks for confirming this CM So it would now seem that colddude's problem is related to something to do with insufficient current to the actuator, although I think it's possible that it might be a temperature problem also. In other words, the linkage, and locking mechanism, and maybe the actuator itself are sluggish when the metal contracts in the cold, and perhaps grease is not as viscous as when it's warm.

There is also a chance that the spring has something to do with this (?). I have no idea where this spring is located, or exactly what it does, but if I understand correctly it assists in opening the door lock somehow. I can't say I've had a spring problem, but apparently it's common.

Ke

 

[CandiMan]

The spring in question is part of the door latch assembly. The problem I had with a broken door latch spring was after unlocking the doors with the remote of key, everytime time I pull on the inside or outside door handle, the lock will go back down and I was unable to open the door. I had to manually keep pulling up on the door lock while opening the door. The spring keeps tension on the latch.

From what I can tell, a broken door latch spring and a non-functioning actuator are two seperate issues that are not related and require different solutions to fix.

 

[KevLar]

The spring in question is part of the door latch assembly. The problem I had with a broken door latch spring was after unlocking the doors with the remote of key, everytime time I pull on the inside or outside door handle, the lock will go back down and I was unable to open the door. I had to manually keep pulling up on the door lock while opening the door. The spring keeps tension on the latch.

From what I can tell, a broken door latch spring and a non-functioning actuator are two seperate issues that are not related and require different solutions to fix.

Roger that, thanks !

 

[CandiMan]

I can confirm, my lights flashes 3x only when the system is armed (with FOB or key in door) It does not flash when dis-armed.

I stand partially corrected, upon further investigating my lights do flash once when I dis-arm with the key in the door. It still doesn't flash when I dis-arm with the remote.

 

[colddude]

I stand partially corrected, upon further investigating my lights do flash once when I dis-arm with the key in the door. It still doesn't flash when I dis-arm with the remote.

I just read the Owner's Manual concerning the blinkers during lock/unlock operation...here is the explanation on what I am seeing with my D1, it is related to the keyfob battery:

HANDSET BATTERY​

The handset battery should last for
approximately three years, dependent upon
use. When the battery needs replacing, it will
be apparent from the following symptoms:
​

?​

The handset will only work every other operation.​

?​

The hazard warning lights will not flash on when the alarm is disarmed.

My keyfob still has original battery, which has lasted 10 yrs! I know it needs replacing, but it seems to work as long as I push the button once or twice...now I know why the blinkers don't flash when unlocking (and I thought I had some electrical wiring issues)....one mystery solved.

Back to the sluggish door lock - I can't reproduce it in the past couple of days. Weather has been warmer, and I had a long drive Sunday out to the mountain getting our Xmas tree...maybe the battery got charged up good...will report back after further observations.​

​

​

​

​

 

[colddude]

BTW, Kev, my wife, kid and I visited Canada this past summer with a stop in Ottawa. We toured the Parliament Building, among few other sights...beautiful city. On this trip, we visited Niagara Falls/Toronto/Ottawa/Quebec City/Montreal, then flew out to Nova Scotia (Halifax) to explore the surrounding areas, also spent a day at PEI.

We live in the Seattle area...It was a fun trip for my 9-yr old, and we had to go to PEI just so we can cross the Confederation Bridge...it was a long trip with lots of driving but I figure my boy can experience our good northern neighbor first-hand, and he now believes he knows how large our continent is having been to the 4 corners

 

[KevLar]

I just read the Owner's Manual concerning the blinkers during lock/unlock operation...here is the explanation on what I am seeing with my D1, it is related to the keyfob battery:

HANDSET BATTERY​

The handset battery should last for
approximately three years, dependent upon
use. When the battery needs replacing, it will
be apparent from the following symptoms:
​

?​

The handset will only work every other operation.​

?​

The hazard warning lights will not flash on when the alarm is disarmed.

My keyfob still has original battery, which has lasted 10 yrs! I know it needs replacing, but it seems to work as long as I push the button once or twice...now I know why the blinkers don't flash when unlocking (and I thought I had some electrical wiring issues)....one mystery solved.

Back to the sluggish door lock - I can't reproduce it in the past couple of days. Weather has been warmer, and I had a long drive Sunday out to the mountain getting our Xmas tree...maybe the battery got charged up good...will report back after further observations.​

​

​

​

​

Hmmmmmmm, well I replaced the battery in my fob a few years back (maybe 3) because the damned thing never seemed to work properly unless I clicked it right against the driver's window... I thought a new battery might help, but it really made no difference. What's the point of having a remote if you pretty much have to be INSIDE the fucking vehicle for it to work?!
For the longest time, I can never get the fob to unlock the doors on the first click. I usually move it around against the driver's window and keep clicking until it unlocks, but maybe it's the battery again. I'll make a point of checking if my lights flash when I disarm the system and confirm the battery issue.
Thanks for digging up this info. I remember reading about some weird "semaphore-like" flashing code to tell you about the status of the fob, but I had forgotten the details.
I hope the simple battery change will cure your problem, but you might still be dealing with a battery/cold temperature issue. For the past couple of years my truck had a slow electrical discharge which would kill the battery if left for a couple of weeks without driving. It seems to have cured itself recently, and the only thing that I've done is remove the driver's door actuator which was not "actuating". When I fiddled with the actuator on my test bench last week, I noticed a wisp of smoke from the motor At first I thought I had fried the motor, but it seems to be running fine, so I wonder if there was some dirt or something else that was causing an electrical short inside the motor which was slowly discharging the battery...
Kev

 

[KevLar]

BTW, Kev, my wife, kid and I visited Canada this past summer with a stop in Ottawa. We toured the Parliament Building, among few other sights...beautiful city. On this trip, we visited Niagara Falls/Toronto/Ottawa/Quebec City/Montreal, then flew out to Nova Scotia (Halifax) to explore the surrounding areas, also spent a day at PEI.

We live in the Seattle area...It was a fun trip for my 9-yr old, and we had to go to PEI just so we can cross the Confederation Bridge...it was a long trip with lots of driving but I figure my boy can experience our good northern neighbor first-hand, and he now believes he knows how large our continent is having been to the 4 corners

Ah, that's cool ! You must have seen the Rideau Canal that runs through the city then (the Canal locks empty into the Ottawa River on the right side of the Parliament Bldg). Well if you had come to Ottawa in the winter, the Canal is turned into a 5 mile long skating rink I'm glad you had a chance to do a decent visit, and it sure sounds like you are not a typical tourist since you went to a number of far flung places, including the East Coast There aren't too many Americans who can claim to have visited the country, let alone seen the diverse areas you have, and I assume you've been to Vancouver AKA Hongcouver ? If not, it's only a short drive north of Seattle as you know. Actually, since you're from Seattle, you have pretty much the same mountain/ocean view as Van, but it is an exceptional city, as is Victoria, which has maintained much of its British heritage, just as Qu?bec City still shows many signs of its French ancestry.
Due to the fact that I'm military, I have traveled and lived all over this country, as well as the US and Europe. I'm hoping to get another posting to the US (maybe DC) since we shut down our bases in Germany several years ago. My previous posting before Defence HQ here in Ottawa was to Illinois where I did a Master's.
Kev

 

[CandiMan]

I just read the Owner's Manual concerning the blinkers during lock/unlock operation...here is the explanation on what I am seeing with my D1, it is related to the keyfob battery:

HANDSET BATTERY​

The handset battery should last for

approximately three years, dependent upon
use. When the battery needs replacing, it will
be apparent from the following symptoms:​

?​

The handset will only work every other operation.​

?​

The hazard warning lights will not flash on when the alarm is disarmed.​

My keyfob still has original battery, which has lasted 10 yrs! I know it needs replacing, but it seems to work as long as I push the button once or twice...now I know why the blinkers don't flash when unlocking (and I thought I had some electrical wiring issues)....one mystery solved.​

Back to the sluggish door lock - I can't reproduce it in the past couple of days. Weather has been warmer, and I had a long drive Sunday out to the mountain getting our Xmas tree...maybe the battery got charged up good...will report back after further observations.​

Thanks to this info, today I changed the battery in my remote. Man, what a difference when using the remote. Lights flash 3x when armed and once when disarmed. Before I had to wait a few seconds in between arming and disarming the system. Now I can armed the system and before the lights are done flashing 3 times, I can immediately disarm, which gives me one light.

Thanks

 

[KevLar]

I checked my remote today, and I am getting 3 flashes on locking, and a single flash on unlocking.

An interesting note, this is all happening WITH THE ACTUATOR REMOVED in the driver's door... So as far as I can tell, the vehicle's entry security relies completely on the state of the courtesy light switch on the front door pillar.

I'm not sure if other cars work this way, but I recall reading posts about people whose courtesy lights would not go on, and the problem turned out to be a corroded or broken wire at the door light switch. I thought about this and I guess what this means is that if your door light switch craps out for whatever reason, someone could jimmy the door lock and not set off the alarm when the door is opened.