96 Discovery Cruise Control and VSS Voltage Issue

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
Once a speed is set the module supplies ground to the pump and the vent . Closing the normally open vent . And running the pump with the battery voltage it put on the pump when it's turned on .
 
Once a speed is set the module supplies ground to the pump and the vent . Closing the normally open vent . And running the pump with the battery voltage it put on the pump when it's turned on .

All that tests is the pump, not the control circuitry.

The controls engineer is on it as I understand AFIRover has been directing this project.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
Really ? I'm surprised to hear that . I really can't remember the last time I saw a good module . But I really haven't worked on much of this old stuff for about 10 yrs now . Just my own .
 
The fault was two fold.

The ECU had a dead component that was found by Module Master in ID. Fault 2 was a broken tab on the switch that is located on the break pedal bracket. A rebuilt ECU and a new switch and it's golden. Of course I replaced the vacuum hoses as well.
 
Well friends, my CC died again. I found that the actuator had a pin hole and thus could not hold the vacuum. I purchased a new actuator from Atlantic British and installed it. However, the CC is still a 'no-go'. Logical thinking would tell us that if the CC was working then stopped working because of a vacuum leak, if I replace the faulty part causing that leak the system should, once again, be functioning properly. But it is not.
I've done all the tests that I did when I originally fixed the CC and each part of the system is working. And yet, as a whole it just doesn't work.
The system needs 15 inches Hg vacuum to fully collapse the actuator. I know that because of my MityVac tool. My original Hella pump is pulling 20 inches Hg vacuum. I have brand new hoses and the MityVac verifies there are no leaks. The actuator is brand new and does not leak. The break pedal switch is brand new and tests correctly. The switches on the steering wheel send signal to the ECU. The ECU was rebuilt by Module Masters. They even sent me another rebuilt ECU to try but it made no difference. I tried replacing the clock spring behind the steering wheel but it made no difference. The main CC fuse is also good.
Can ANYONE think of ANYTHING I am missing?
I keep hoping that I'll have an 'a-ha' moment like I did three months ago but so far it hasn't happened.
Please! Somebody jump in here and throw me some suggestions. It's maddening to have repaired it once then have it fail again and REFUSE to cooperate again.