'99 DII arrived today...broke down 45 minutes later...

[rovercanus]

No, I think the best course of action would be to call the place that sold/fixed it to see if they're gonna stand behind it.

If it is a reputable car lot (there are some) and a reputable shop (more than not, I believe) there is a good chance it will all be taken care of to the owner's satisfaction.

Bullshit. If it's something simple, just fucking fix it already, but since he hasn't even crawled under the truck that won't happen.
Let me add an edit (as if yo had a choice). If the dealer were in the next town over, maybe I would call and say it's spewing can you look at it. But it came from someone three hours away. Your advice is to sit on your hands and hope the seller makes it right? Are you Disco Paul now? Are you going to tell him to change the O2 sensors and throw a set of Magnicores and Plus 4's at now?

 

[sven]

Got advance auto parts, borrow the free coolnat pressure tester. You will find the leak within 5 minutes.

 

[ptschram]

Your advice is to sit on your hands and hope the seller makes it right?

No, my advice was to call and find out what support he might expect. A phone call.

If I bought a vehicle from a dealer and within the first 50 miles of operation, it had what could be a major problem, I'd be hot. If it is something major, the repairing shop might want it back before it's been monkeyed with and if monkeyed with, might use that for grounds to deny any sort of claims made to them.

 

[JohnB]

Fix it. Wow this is exactly what happened to me. Upper bleeder screw broke right off on my way home form buying it. Called the seller and got no love. I came close to maybe going to Jail but my better sense got ahold.

In Oregon once your handed the keys and the cash exchanges the car is yours at least thats what our attorney general stands behind.

 

[dcarr1971]

OK...to be clear, I called them right after this happened yesterday. They we non-committal on what kind of support I can expect. They asked me to check the hoses...

Now, I took a somewhat extended lunch and got both distilled water and antifreeze. (Green since that's what's already in the engine and I've always been told to NEVER mix the colors.) I filled the reservoir per the RAVE and with the bleeder valve open. Once everything was full and I mopped up the overflow, I found that I'm getting a constant slow drip from the underside of the water pump. (See picture...)

I'm not sure whether this is from the water pump itself or from the hose that runs into it from the thermostat...when I started the engine, the drip continued slightly faster, but it also dripped from the bottom lip of the hose itself. Given what I was seeing, I didn't run the engine up to operating temp since I didn't want to risk damage, before I posted this first. (Also, I had to get back to work...)

 

[RoverRideAlong]

With the leak narrowed down to a specifc area, did you check the hose feeding into the water pump?

 

[D Chapman]

If it's leaking while the truck is not running, I highly doubt that it's a head gasket or cracked block.

...then again, pressure could have built up and blown the hose off as a result of a blown head gasket or cracked block.

Narrow down the leak. Looks like it's either a loose or slit hose, or a poor seal on the water pump gasket.

Seal the leak, start the truck, let it reach operating temp, and see if the coolant hoses become hard.

 

[nolift911]

Seal the leak, start the truck, let it reach operating temp, and see if the coolant hoses become hard.

"That's what she said" - sorry a little levity here....

I would agree that at roughly 300 miles away - it's his problem right now to fix, and one helluva lot easier from an aggravation perspective. If this was a new car from a fancy dealership - sure, call raise hell, tell them you need a hotel, dinner etc. This aint - you are on your own.

Sounds like it is narrowed down to the water pump area - keep at it. Deal with the "dealer" after your truck is running again.

If you want to see any kind of compensation from the other dealer, keep receipts for parts etc. but don't let another mechanic (with a business) work on the car, do it all yourself. Once someone else touches it other than you, it?s all on you.

My guess - no cracked block, no bad HG install, prolly a bad connection - due to taking brittle as hell things apart for a full HG install on a 95k truck that is 11 years old.

Sux - but keep giving us info here and we can help.

 

[adriatic04]

shouldnt coolant hoses build some pressure? Not firm like a sidewall on a tire, but they tighten up a bit?

 

[KyleT]

its got 90k. replace the waterpump, thermostat (in housing or do the aluminum mod as in another thread) and the hoses up front, I* would also do the coolant reservoir and cap. they like to go at 80-100k miles from what I have seen.

I HIGHLY doubt that they were replaced during the HG job.

Drain the green stuff and flush with water and refill with red OAT coolant. I use havoline, it is LR factory.

Yes. there should be some pressure in the cooling system, but still a little squishy. if they are firm, then there is another issue. they should also not baloon up, if they do that, well gtfo and wait for it to cool off so it doesnt explode.

OP, preventative maintenance is key on these things.

 

[dcarr1971]

With the leak narrowed down to a specifc area, did you check the hose feeding into the water pump?

I could be confused, but from what I'm seeing in the RAVE, I think this is the hose feeding the water pump coming out of the t-stat.

If it's leaking while the truck is not running, I highly doubt that it's a head gasket or cracked block...
...Seal the leak, start the truck, let it reach operating temp, and see if the coolant hoses become hard.

That's what I was hoping to hear...

I don't know if this matters, but FWIW before I refilled the cooling system I did try to feel all the hoses and I could tell that there was at least some water in the hose that looks like it is leaking. Maybe the bad spot/seal/cut is around on the top...we'll see this evening when I start the truck and let it heat up. (I'm going to take this opportunity to move it forward and also put it up on ramps to give me a little more room to move around underneath it...)

 

[dcarr1971]

its got 90k. replace the waterpump, thermostat (in housing or do the aluminum mod as in another thread) and the hoses up front, I* would also do the coolant reservoir and cap. they like to go at 80-100k miles from what I have seen...

Sounds reasonable to do the reservoir and cap too, but the water pump was already replaced. (At least that's what the dealer claims...they even supplied original rec'ts for the pump and gasket with the truck.)

Maybe this is a dumb question, but have you tried changing the tank without bleeding the rest of the cooling system? I'm thinking it could be done, but might not be recommended. I just hate to put it together, decide it all works, and then have to drain it and refill it 2 days later...

Anyway, I'll be headed out to move the truck and let it get up to temp in about an hour. I'll take lots of pix of anything exciting and post back later this evening with results.

 

[dcarr1971]

Here's a thought...would I be pushing my luck if I decided to go ahead and do the fan clutch now too? If I'm going to the extent of replacing the hoses, t-stat, reservoir, cap, and probably then having the system rodded out, why not get this out of the way too? Or is this a case of 'if its not broke...'?

 

[Houston]

I just hate to put it together, decide it all works, and then have to drain it and refill it 2 days later...

Welcome to the world of doing it yourself. See you have to take it as a benefit- it will be done right, and you will know that it is sound.

This is a great experience for you to build a relationship with this truck and to understand what its true condition is. These things require knowledge and experience!

Take heart... you have some of the most knowledgable people on this forum invested in your success!

Work it through and don't rush it. You will be a Land Rover owner for a long time- and the fun and games has really yet to begin

Good luck!

 

[ptschram]

OK, now that we know there isn't gonna be any support, we can
go forth.

The hose that's in question is part of the hose that goes to the expansion tank and the heater as well. It's not unheard of for the "welded" hoses to fail prematurely and there is an improved part-improved but a pain to install in trucks with oil coolers, there isn't much access.

If it's the water pump, I think Will has them with a lifetime warranty (fucker!) for only $100.

Cheers,
PT

 

[Blue]

dcarr1971 has a great attitude and it's refreshing to see concise, well-written and informative posts. Welcome to dweb.

Now go fix your hoses and then go kick the salesman at roverclassic in the nutsack!

 

[Tugela]

Now go fix your hoses and then go kick the salesman at roverclassic in the nutsack!

Yeah, what Blue said. And be sure to take photos and post them here so we can all enjoy the payback.

 

[Blue]

From Roverclassics website (I'm assuming this is the truck you bought):

http://www.roverclassic.com/landroverpictures.asp?id=17

1999 Land Rover Discovery


Year : 1999 , Mileage : 95648, Price : $SOLD!!!

Details :

1999 LAND ROVER DISCOVERY *BOOKS* 2 SUNROOFS* !!! 19" WHEELS !!! *** VERY CLEAN IN AND OUT *** It rides smooth and solid. If you are looking at this car you already know what it is, and also know that it is impossible to find them like this! With 95, xxx original HIGHWAY miles and it is obvious that this car has been driven and maintained with great care. This car has been babied all its life and it really shows. This Rover drives and runs just perfect. For additional information feel free to call Mike at: 321-CLASSIC (252-7742) OR 718-419-9700

If I were you I'd email them this picture and ask them to add it to their advertisement....

 

[KyleT]

i would not have the radiator rodded out if that is what you are referring to. I have never seen one that didnt leak after they did it...

 

[I HATE PONIES]

dcarr1971 has a great attitude and it's refreshing to see concise, well-written and informative posts. Welcome to dweb.

Now go fix your hoses and then go kick the salesman at roverclassic in the nutsack!

Is Rob still in "The Burg" ?