99D2 Engine Transmission Issues

[jmoore]

I have a 99D2 with 98K. Within the past 500 miles I replaced the headgaskets, had a valve job and also replace the transmission temp sensor as the light had come on the binacle.

So far I've driven it with no problems.

Today, I we pack up the disco and head to the adirondacks pulling my popup camper (2300 lbs) and had kayaks on the SD rack. I'm about 60 miles from home and make my way up a long incline on the interstate. The truck does slow down pulling the weight, but that's not unusal. On the way down everything is fine, until I pull off on our exit. About 1/2 down the exit the engine shuts down, I get a check engine light and the (S) and (M) transmission lights are flashing. I try to restart the truck and it won't start. The engine did not overheat. I pulled the + side of the battery hoping to reset the codes to no avail. But after about 30 mins, the truck cranks up with the CEL still on and I'm able to drive it about 2-3 miles. I stop at a Ford Dealer and try to see if they would let me borrow their OBDII scanner, but they won't. Again the truck won't start. After awhile it does start again. I try and drive to a local shop who says they will let me borrow their scanner. I make it 2-3 miles again and it shuts down. Fortunately, I'm close enough and the let me borrow their OBDII Scanner. At this point I notice the (S) and (M) lights are no longer on. The Scanner gives me the Code P1884. I've searched and that code seems to be some sort of generic code. Arrrg!

I get AAA to haul the Rover, camper and family home. Bummer, the kayak and camping trip to the Adirdondacks is ruined! I'm really bummin'

Once home I start the truck up and it's running fine. I did have the guy clear the code. Any ideas on what might have happened?

I've done some searching and it appears the M / S lights can be releated to low battery. I have a brand new Optima and I know the belt and tension is good on the alt. I'll double check the connections on the ALT as I moved it around abit during the HG change.

Another problem I have is that the shifter has been difficult at times to get into park. Often I'll have to push it back into Park a few times before I can get it to crank. Could that be related?

I still don't understand tho' why it would cause the engine to shut down like that... odd!

 

[mbrummal]

P1884
CAN message: Engine friction invalid. No apparent effect.
MIL:On M&S:Off


P1884
CAN message: Throttle position invalid. Substitute throttle angle of 50% dopted. No kickdown. Operates in economy modes only.
MIL:On M&S:On


P1884
CAN message: Engine temperature invalid. Substitute engine temperature derived from other inputs. No apparent effect.
MIL:On M&S:Off


P1884
CAN message: Road speed invalid. No apparent effect
MIL:On M&S:Off

P1884
CAN message: Engine torque invalid. Substitute engine torque of derived from other inputs. May affect shift quality.
MIL:On M&S:Off


P1884
CAN message: Engine speed invalid. Maintains current gear in low range, limp home mode in high range. Shift pressure to
maximum, harsh gear shifts/engagement.
MIL:On M&S:On


P1884
CAN message: Engine air intake temperature invalid. No apparent effect.
MIL:On M&S:Off


P1844
Altitude shift control invalid. No reduced torque compensation, possible reduction in performance/ driveability at altitude or high ambient temperatures.
MIL:On M&S:Off


Those are the possibilities for the P1884 code.
The 2 that are bold-ed would turn on the M&S lights. Might be the problem. TPS? CkPS? not sure.

Edit: Those codes are from the workshop manual under the transmission section.

 

[KyleT]

XYZ switch faliure?

does the PND321 led on the shifter light up and does it read on the dash?

It will do several things including not start and also will not let the key come out and will blink M&S at random.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/UHB100190G.cfm or a used one. it could have been knocked out of adjustent too, there is a specal key tool used to align it.

P1884 is manufacture specific on rovers IIRC.

 

[mbrummal]

P1884 is manufacture specific on rovers IIRC.

read my edit. Those were from the workshop manual

 

[KyleT]

read my edit. Those were from the workshop manual

gotcha.:bigok:

 

[ptschram]

Once again, we're jumping t conclusions based solely upon querying the ECU.

Everything was going along fine until something less than good happened. We need to figure out what that was!

I'm concerned that the engine shut down, I wonder if it's a CkPS in the first stages of failure, or was the connector disturbed during the head job?

 

[jmoore]

I'm concerned that the engine shut down, I wonder if it's a CkPS in the first stages of failure, or was the connector disturbed during the head job?

You know what's funny, the tow truck operator who kinda reminded me of "Cooter" and knew absolutely nothing about Rovers told me a story about his wife's Grand Am, that would drive just fine and suddendly shut off. Once cooled down it would crank and drive with no problems then mysteriously shut off again with no codes. Turned out to be teh CkPS. It's quite possible I disturbed it when I did the head job. I moved the harness all over the place when I did the heads.

Also, I didn't notice is the PRNDL was blinking when all this was happening. I do remember that the shifter would "lock up" in Park. And that I would have to fool around with the key/ignition 'til finally it would let me move it through the gears.

Right now it seems fine, what can I check or do?

 

[ptschram]

On DIIs if the trans or t-case has been disturbed, or if it is worn, it is not uncommon to need to almost slap the shifter into Park to get the key out. This can be a misadjustment or it can be the XYZ switch failing.

I have encountered exactly one CkPS failure and it would fail almost exactly ten minutes after the engine started and start again almost exactly 30 minutes later! It was astounding at how repeatable it was. I put the Vantage on it and could see the instant the signal got wonky. You could conceivably crawl under the truck with a hair dryer and while it's running heat up the sensor until it shuts the engine down-it would be a pretty good indication the CkPS had failed.

 

[jmoore]

PT, the issue with the shifter has been going on for awhile. What I've noticed in the past that often, I'll put the key in, turn it and the truck won't start. What I have to do is run it through PRDL and make sure it's good in Park before it will start.

The way you describe the CkPS sounds alot like what happened to my truck. But would that also cause the M & S lights to blink or is that a sperate issue? I'm certainly willing to try the Hairdryer test!

We have a camping trip to Maine scheduled over Labor Day and I want to get this sorted out, that's a long way to go and I don't want to get stuck that far from home.

 

[ptschram]

I can't address the M/S issue until we get the truck going again.

Let us know what you find.

 

[jmoore]

I can't address the M/S issue until we get the truck going again.

Let us know what you find.

When it shut down the last time, right before I had it towed. I did have a shop read the codes (got the P1884) and had them clear them. Now that the truck is home I have no CEL and it's running fine. I guess I should try driving it again and see what happens, or try your hair dryer test, huh?

 

[ptschram]

I guess I should try driving it again and see what happens, or try your hair dryer test, huh?

It all depends upon how understanding your spouse is. You already had a trip spoiled by it quitting. Do you feel lucky?

I'd sure want to know why my truck seems to randomly quit.

 

[jmoore]

It all depends upon how understanding your spouse is. You already had a trip spoiled by it quitting. Do you feel lucky?

I'd sure want to know why my truck seems to randomly quit.

Yeah, I don't want to ruin another trip. I'll use it locally and see what happens. Thanks for your help, Keep you posted.

 

[jmoore]

Hey, just as a follow up. A two days after this happened, I checked by Transmission Fluid level and it was about a 1.5 Qt's low. So I filled it up and thought that maybe that could have been the problem. While driving it around the neighbor hood, it up and died on me about 10 minues later. Bugger! I've been traveling a good deal for business, with little time to wrench and I didn't want to keep replacing sensors, so I had AAA tow it to the Dealer. Turned out to be a crank positioning failure code, just as PT thought. So a few bills later I'm back on the road and hopefully camping in Maine in two weeks.

Kudos to PT for the proper diagnosis! Thanks guys.