abs pumps

az_max

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Apr 22, 2005
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PTSchram has a line on rebuilt pumps. I went the used route through Roverdude.

If you do replace it, consider replacing the accumulator ball at the same time.
 
p m said:
I wish I knew of PT's line on rebuilt pumps...
+1 on accumulator, unless you know how to tell that one's good.

It took me a long time to find a "Good" source for them. I have only sold a few of them, but they've all survived beyond the warranty period!

They are more expensive than used, less than new, but expensive all the same.

PT
 
sven said:
PT, is it just the electric motor part of the pump that is rebuilt, or is it more involved than that?

From what I've learned since working with the gentleman who doe sthe rebuilding, the motor does not fail until the pump does. When the pump seizes, the motor fails, thus in order to provide a reliable rebuilt pump, both the hydraulics and the electrics must be rebuilt.

The last time I sold one, IIRC, the pump ran about $600 exchange, but I'd have to confirm the price before quoting.
 

p m

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jim-00-4.6 said:
some people over on rr.net weighed them; found a 'bad' one to be around 1065 grams, and a new one to be about 1095 grams (or 438 new pennies).
See this thread.
Jim - awesome link.
First, I've never known what's inside that ball - now I do.
And I do believe that there is a measurable amount of nitrogen inside.
Funny, it looks like this ball is poached from a Citroen's hydro-pneumatic suspension.
 

p m

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Paul, given your luck with Bilstein shocks -
it just occured to me that all I'd need to make a good accumulator is a small lathe.
Get a broken Bilstein shock, take it apart carefully, cut about 6" from the bottom mount - you may be even able to do it with the gas piston and nitrogen in place!
Cut a fine thread into the wall of the shock, and make a cap with an NPT or AN or metric fitting.
I've rebuilt Bilstein shocks in the past in this way. The only think I'm not certain about is whether the seals they use would live up to the brake fluid.
 

eliaschristeas

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Jul 6, 2006
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Beverly HIlls
i think there's a guy on the southern california land rover club who has rebuilt them successfully, I think I actually met him at RR7 or something. I'll see if I can find him. . .
 

az_max

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Apr 22, 2005
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When I replaced my pump and accumulator, I put a hose on the bleed screw on the accumulator. It bubbled like a mo-fo for a few minutes, so I'm sure that was the nitrogen escaping. I drained almost a large bottle of brake fluid out of it. (My original problem was a noisy pump and a drained master cylinder resevour).

It's another $80, but only two more steps after removing the pump.
 

p m

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The problem is - why was it lost in the first place? If that's a hole in the rubber diaphragm, filling it up won't help it.

If the diaphragm is good, you could drill a hole in the back and tap it for a 1/4 NPT port (+check valve +whatever connector you need for 80-bar line).
 

az_max

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Apr 22, 2005
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If mine was rusted through, it was the inside like the link's pics.

Other cars have accumulators that can be serviced. how? I don't know. I thought possibly using a needle through the diaphram. Looks like there's a rubber plug there in the pics. Or they just might have service ports on the back sides.