Adjustable panhard rod - educate me :)

[DiscoJen]

In my quest for knowledge I have come to an interest in information about adjustable panhard rods. From my limited understanding of suspensions I was able to pick out that it's a good thing because it helps to reduce panhard rod bushing bind. And I've gathered that the main benefit is to increase bushing life. These bushings are so freakin' cheap and easy to replace that there has to be something more important that this thing does. $150 for the adjustable rod vs. more frequent bushing changes at a whopping $6.

What are the other benefits or reasons that one would want to install an adjustable panhard rod?

My brain is a thirsty sponge but too bad no one's home.

Jen

 

[RVRSRVC]

I noticed after lifting Disco my several different heights eventually ending at 4+ inches that the front wheels/axle was sitting decidely to the vehicles right. The coil springs also had a "curveature" to the right. When I unbolted the p-rod, the vehicle straightened itself right out! And it did the same to several customer's vehicles.
So, yes adjustability unloads the bushings but it also places the front axle in line with the rear axle. I'm running 34x9 bias-ply Swampers, so I didn't really notice any difference in the way it drives, but the amount of adjustment required to line up the rod ends surprised me, and I believe it has to make a difference.

 

[marc olivares]

Steve Rupp has some photos of a disco w/ a 4" lift and a stock panhard bar from this weekend in Moab. as this disco drove down the road, the front axle was noticably shifted to the drivers side. maybe he'll chime in later w/ a link or photos

both Steve and i have adjustable panhard bars and it ihelps tremendously w/ relieving bushing stress/ bind and correcting the vehicle geometry back to some what stock specs.

 

[Andrew Homan]

Is it needed with a 2 or 3 inch lift?

 

[marc olivares]

short answer is yes
w/ any lift you should correct all the issues related to said lift.
but in practice i would say that you'd be fine at 2" but 3"and over will benefit from having an adjustable panhard.
or you could lower your mount on the frame side too, but an adjustable bar is easier.

 

[WLDKGDM]

Geometrically Speaking.......

Ok,

The P/H Rod is a fixed instrument. It is anchored like your Radius Arms and Rear links.
When you lift the truck up, the physical distance between the two ends decreases horizontally. Like if you were talking about a clock, if it were 9:15 the big hand is on the 3, so the distance between the tip of big hand and the tip of the little hand are the furthest apart.

Now, at 9:30 the distance between the tip of the big hand and the little hand are decresed by half horizontally. So the apex of the clock hands is where your P/H rod connects to your trucks frame.

Get it? Good.
I hope I haven't confused the dogshit out of you 'cause I think I just did me.

In other words....Well you get it

Dan
I'm a dumbass, but i get shit done.

 

[alex]

a word of caution about longer panhard bars--if you have an aftermarket driveshaft with a larger than stock yoke (such as a DDC shaft) a longer panhard bar with shove the driveshaft right into the catalytic converter!. I had to take a chunk out of my PS cat to keep them from hitting, and this is with a stock panhard. If I had a longer panhard to correct for the lift, no amount of modifying the cat would help; it would have to be moved towards the back of the truck.

 

[ptschram]

Ok,

The P/H Rod is a fixed instrument. It is anchored like your Radius Arms and Rear links.
When you lift the truck up, the physical distance between the two ends decreases horizontally. Like if you were talking about a clock, if it were 9:15 the big hand is on the 3, so the distance between the tip of big hand and the tip of the little hand are the furthest apart.

Now, at 9:30 the distance between the tip of the big hand and the little hand are decresed by half horizontally. So the apex of the clock hands is where your P/H rod connects to your trucks frame.

Get it? Good.
I hope I haven't confused the dogshit out of you 'cause I think I just did me.

In other words....Well you get it

Dan
I'm a dumbass, but i get shit done.

If you think of the suspension as a triangle made up of the axle housing, panhard rod and springs, if you lengthen the relationship between the housing and the spring, but do not change the relationship between the panhard rod and either of the other, it might make it easier to visualize.

 

[Eric N.]

a word of caution about longer panhard bars--if you have an aftermarket driveshaft with a larger than stock yoke (such as a DDC shaft) a longer panhard bar with shove the driveshaft right into the catalytic converter!. I had to take a chunk out of my PS cat to keep them from hitting, and this is with a stock panhard. If I had a longer panhard to correct for the lift, no amount of modifying the cat would help; it would have to be moved towards the back of the truck.

Same with me too.

 

[marc olivares]

a word of caution about longer panhard bars--if you have an aftermarket driveshaft with a larger than stock yoke (such as a DDC shaft) a longer panhard bar with shove the driveshaft right into the catalytic converter!. I had to take a chunk out of my PS cat to keep them from hitting, and this is with a stock panhard. If I had a longer panhard to correct for the lift, no amount of modifying the cat would help; it would have to be moved towards the back of the truck.

LOL...yet another reason why i say the DDC shafts don't work....
i've been there too Alex.
pinion angle correct the arms for a DC shaft, castor correct the swivel balls, adj. panhard and you'll have a near perfect front end (and won't have to mess w/ those 40 lbs DDC's)

 

[DiscoJen]

Awesome!

Extremely helpful information guys! Thanks and keep it coming...

Jen

 

[stecz]

Who are some adjustable panhard rod vendors? I screwed up putting my springs in this weekend and the axle slipped off the jack (I was using a hockey puck as a cushion...bad idea in this situation) and when the jack slipped the panhard rod got bent.

I figure if I'm going to have to replace it anyway, I may as well get an adjustable one....

 

[RVRSRVC]

www.rovertym.com

 

[marc olivares]

http://www.rovertracks.com/

 

[mkronmal]

Is the Rovertracks one adjustable?

 

[marc olivares]

yes, and it looks cool too
it bends up to clear a sewer cap diff guard if you have one, and is super clean

 

[Steve Rupp]

Yes. There are heim joints on both sides. Be aware though, if your disco is a daily driver and you are in shitty weather the heims will not last nearly as long as the stock bushings. If you are concerned about changing them I would see if someone could fab you up an adjustable panhard bar that uses the stock bushings. Also with the heim joints you will need to drill out your mounts to 5/8. And BE CAREFUL doing it. I bent a drill bit and almost broke my arm. Here's a pic of my setup.

 

[mkronmal]

Maybe the RTE one tho match my track and cross rods then...

 

[Eric N.]

LOL...yet another reason why i say the DDC shafts don't work....
i've been there too Alex.
pinion angle correct the arms for a DC shaft, castor correct the swivel balls, adj. panhard and you'll have a near perfect front end (and won't have to mess w/ those 40 lbs DDC's)

Even my old GBR single DC shaft ate my old cat.. I think some trucks were just built a little off..

 

[Steve Rupp]

I keep losing the damn grease zirc on my front shaft from hitting the cat. It sticks out just far enough to hit. I need to get that thing closer to the yoke.