I'm getting mine aligned tomorrow. Never been done since Ive owned the truck and its had 3 different spring set ups, all steering arms replace, new adjustable panhard, adjustable trailing arms, etc...I have gotten it pretty straight with a tape measure but I'm in no hurry for premature tire wear. $50 bucks is cheap insurance.
That is, assuming the person who's doing the alignment knows his/her job.
Comparing wheel alignment with oil changes again, $50 at a Jiffy Lube for me is a guarantee that something will get fucked up - including things you couldn't imagine getting fucked up.
In your case, which is very similar to mine; despite the form of verbs used below, it is rather what I do whenever I tweak the suspension than an "owner's manual."
(0) Make sure the tires are inflated to the same pressure left to right, and brake calipers aren't dragging, and there is no play in wheel bearings.
(1) calculate the proper length of the adjustable Panhard rod for the lift you have, and adjust it.
(2) Put the pitman arm in the center position (both by the steering wheel position and by matching the slot in it to the threaded hole in the box).
(3) if you are not sure about the adjustment of the tie rod, using the cord wrapped around front and rear wheels, adjust it to where you like it (for me - between 0 and 1/16" toe-in). See the Youtube for the explanations of string alignment method.
(4) adjust the drag link to make sure that the wheels are pointed as straight as they get with the steering box centered.
Keep in mind that, depending on whether you allow only one or both front wheels to move, you may have to recheck/redo steps (3) and (4).
Rear trailing arms:
(5a) if you have measured the stock arms' lengths (say, from the axle housing near their brackets to the frame brackets), set the adjustable arms' lengths as close to stock arms' lengths as possible.
(5b) if you have not measured the stock arms' lengths , adjust the lengths as close to each other as possible.
(6) Drive the truck. If it pulls to either side, adjust one or another heim joint in the adjustable trailing arms by half a turn at a time - more if it pulls really strongly (it is obvious, but still - if the truck pulls to the right, make the right trailing arm longer or left trailing arm shorter). Repeat as necessary.
Keep in mind that the truck can track straight yet with the steering wheel cocked from its straight position. If this happens, and the slant is outside your OCD comfort zone, repeat steps (1), (2), and (4).
Now - it sounds slow and painful; why is it better than take it to alignment show (even to one that does it right)? Because your ultimate goal is not the perfect geometry of an unloaded suspension, but the one under real driving conditions - with bushing compressed/extended under load, etc. etc.
The sequence of alignment (front to rear, or toe-in vs centering) can be varied. I never read the shop manual on this subject.
Also, I came across something bizarre that I don't have an explanation for: the truck pulling to one side when the toe-in was set incorrectly (about 3/16" out).
