Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
I asked a question in a recent post about the pumps or blocks being the problem area on 2003 dicovery's.
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55250


Reason I asked, Is i pulled apart our 108K 2003 for a cam change, and thought I'd replace the pump rotor for good measure with one I purchased from Turner-Engineering (along with all my other parts).

This is what i was greeted with - an outer rotor in four pieces. Great - this means I've got the magical 2003 problem... Interestingly, I had previously done hot/cold tests on the engine, and oil pressure was totally in spec, a nice 13psi when fully upto temp at idle for example. The rotor has also been broken for a long time looking at the galling between the fractures.

Here is the pump pics:


So, no-one seems to 'really' know 100% if the block or pump was the problem part, so I decided to take a closer look.

Firstly, a trial fit of the cover between the locating dowels with the rotor out showed it slid on quite nicely. Clearly the dowels are aligned to each other well.
Next, a trial fit of the cover with the (new) pump rotor, and it did not slide on as smoothly. It did slide on - but not cleanly. I removed the cover and pulled the bottom dowel out aroud 2mm. This allowed me to partially re-fit the cover , aligning the bottom dowel and the pump rotor, to see where the top dowel wanted to 'fall' - ideally this would be in the middle of the 'free play' of the pump rotor between the crank and the front cover rotor recess. As it was, the dowel was right on the edge of the free-play, basically the weight of the housing taking up all the free-play 'just' aligned the top dowel.

Clearly, this is not right, and further investigation continued.


First suspicious area - all the bolts are tight against the side of the clearance holes in the cover - two so tight that they can't be spun in by hand (but can with the cover off).
http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/Cover_bolts.JPG

Next is the dowels,
This is an interesting picture I put together that shows there is a counter-sink and pilot hole around the dowels, and that is offset from the hole the dowel locates in.
Now, I don't know the order that these things are machined, but I know when we machine transmission casings in our industry, the mainshaft and coutershafts are first line-bored, then these act as the location dowels for the housing machining (milling / drilling clearance or tapped holes and dowels) on a different machine.

I imagine a block would be done similarly; but in 2003 the tool change coming in to do the dowel holes for some reason came in a different place than the countersink / pilot hole. Put simply, having this big of an offset between the dowel countersink and dowel holes just doesn't seem right.



What I'd appreciate is if someone has a block to hand that is either an '03 or not, and say if your dowel holes have this big offset to the chamfer. If they all have a wide scatter like this one, then I'm barking up the wrong tree. If they all look reasonably concentric to each other, then it would be a reasonable assumption that the 2003 blocks, not the pumps were faulty.

Incidentally, I'm going to put a lever DTI on the crank tonight and measure the run-out of the seal bore relative to the crank. This miggt not be conclusive as it's machined from a different side to the dowels / gerotor pocket however...

If it all looks like the only thing that is wrong is the dowel holes themselves, I might turn up a few offset dowels and try those to compare the free-play. I need some insight into other blocks first however! :D

Thanks!
 
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dragnet

Well-known member
Dec 23, 2008
120
0
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

turbodave,

Please continue to post your results as your work continues. I recently bought an 03 with 60K on it. From the searching and reading I had done most agreed that the failure, if it was going to happen, usually took place well before 60K. It seems that this may be quite wrong. I will be interested to see the difference in the 04 block when compared to the 03. Thanks for all your investigative work.
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

I will continue to post my findings - and hopefully others will chime in.

As regards the '03 pump problem, knowing what i know about gerotors and the tolerances needed for decent alignment, I (personally) would be very surprised if any 2003 engine has an intact gerotor set. That mine has kept running and not self-destructed is good news and a small comfort for any 2003 owner... Perhaps I need to make a batch of offset dowels if my suspicions are confirmed LOL...
 

dragnet

Well-known member
Dec 23, 2008
120
0
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

I don't know much about the internals of motors, keeping my mechanic work to external stuff, brakes, seals, filters, electrics etc. If it is the gerotor that fails and takes the motor with it, could a gerotor be machined out of a more durable material that would hold up better and not crack? Or would that just cause more wear on surrounding parts?
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

Not really, gerotors are precision sintered parts for high-volume production runs, and run with really tight tolerances to keep efficiency up. Changing to a theoretical billet steel pump set will not solve this 2003 inflicted problem (assuming all the above turns out to be correct); it might be a band-aid for a short-term, but i suspect it'd still break - or would mash up the cover - basically - there is nothign wrong with standard parts. There is something wrong with the alignment however.
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

ptschram said:
Gentlemen:
We are in the presence of greatness!

Nice investigative work. I have a pile of partially disassembled engines and a new camera. I'll see if I can pull some dowels and we can see what there is to see.


Do you have a decent digital / vernier caliper available as well? Reason I'm asking is that pictures alone might not tell us what we need. I found this picture on the web of the front face of a v8 being built up for a caterfield:
http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/front_wall_late_block.jpg
As you can see, there is little-to-no chamfer around the dowels, hence it doesn't really tell us anything.

What we really need is a starting point on confirming where the holes should be.
Generally we'd be best triangulating the dowel locations from the crank and cam bores, but this is difficult given the acute angles.

Next best thing is to use the threaded holes (which if machined on a CNC should be close-enough to get X and Z co-ordinate locations from):
http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/pump_dowel_CD.jpg

If you thread in a shouldered bolt, you should be able to get these dimensions. Make sure you thread it in fully to minimize the tipping of the bolt.

I'll do this tonight as well as measuring the run-out and post all the numbers.
 
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turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

So, here was the first test I did:

http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/IMG_4007.JPG

As I suspected, this was inconclusive - if anything the bore run-out was sat 'too high' relative to the crank by 16thou, and as expected, too far to the left by around 13 thou - less than the dowel offset machining in the block suggested anyways.

This to me, suggested the seal bore is not a reliable indicator.

Thinking about other options, I picked up the original (broken) gerotor and came up with a different solution - one less analytical and more practical.

I re-fitted the original gerotor, packing the outer ring pieces away from the pump bore with shims of equal thickness (soda cans are good shim sources LOL)

http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/IMG_4010.JPG

By doing this, I ended up with the central rotor tight inside the outers. Because my inner rotor was still intact, this aligned the 'upper' outer piece, all I had to do was carefully adjust the bottom piece to be central about the rotors. Becuase the shims around the OD had tightened everything up, this was easy to twist and manouver the 'lower' piece to be aligned, and it held in place.

http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/IMG_4014.JPG


I then fired up my Tig and tacked the two pieces together, and remembered I was dealing with sintered steel, which smoked and leaked oil, and failed to weld - so out with the Mig and some dirty blobs held the pieces together.

http://www.davecoxon.co.uk/IMG_4016.JPG

Now, I had a solid rotor to use as a template. I removed it, and rotated it to establish if the rotor offset was set vertically (relative to the machining on the bottom of the housing) or at an angle - luckilly it was bob-on vertical.

I marked the rotor assy and housing for alignment, then re-fitted my shims to centralise the rotor in the bore. Now I re-offered it upto the block - voila - it wouldn't go on.
I re-checked, yep - everything was centralised. Still wouldn't go on.
Manouvering things around, I could get it to be happy on the bottom dowel, but sitting it on the top dowel and crank left a noticable step between the underside of the housing and block - another leak path...

So, I pulled the top dowel out, filed around 20-thou, 90-degrees off one end edge off it to allow the cover to re-locate. The cover was offered up, and it slid right on...

A small (3mm) hole was drilled at the edge of the housing into the block, to act as the new location dowel (these were the only decent pins i had to hand).

Next step was easy - pull the cover off, install the new gerotor set, and trial fit the cover with the new dowel.


And it WORKED. Compared to the previous attemts with the new rotor, this was now RIGHT. With one of these small telescopic magnets, I could push and pull the central drive hub to the pump and move it easilly forwards and backwards.

Don't know what else to suggest here chaps. If i'd have thought a little harder I'd have taken some dimensions from the gerotor and figured out what it was (there are generally standard sizes - specials are pretty unusual from my experience). This would have allowed me to have generated a CAD file and hence had an accurately machined blank that could have been used by others to centralise (or at least confirm) their front covers. As it was, I was eager to get this resolved as it's the wife's disco and she wanted it back (note my lack of any subsequent pictures due to excitement and being rushed LOL).

oh well...


To summarise - I don't know / cannot confirm if the 'double machining' on the dowels in the block is where the pins are meant to be. Nor do I fully know if the cover is wrong or the block.
What I do know, is the seal bore is not a reliable indicator, and that I am confident my pump is now better placed to give reliable service than when the vehicle was assembled in Jan 2003.


:patriot:
 
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crown14

Well-known member
May 11, 2006
6,288
4
Clayton, NC
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

Great info here.

What if- you pulled the cover dowels out altogether and just bolted the cover on?
 

pjkbrit

Well-known member
Apr 23, 2004
542
0
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

crown14 said:
Great info here.

What if- you pulled the cover dowels out altogether and just bolted the cover on?

Or even just delete one dowel pin and let the cover pivot either way a few thou until the pump moves freely? Excellent 'article'....apologies for the sloppiness of my countrymen's assembly techniques...remember as with all British cars, designed by Genius, assembled by Soccer Hooligan:ack:
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

crown14 said:
What if- you pulled the cover dowels out altogether and just bolted the cover on?

I wouldn't reccomend no-dowel. Getting it central is impossible.




pjkbrit said:
Or even just delete one dowel pin and let the cover pivot either way a few thou until the pump moves freely?

Again - not easy to be sure how far off you were. My experience says the bottom pin is the better bet - your assy might be different.
 
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uglysteve

Well-known member
Mar 19, 2006
94
8
Arizona
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

Turbodave,
How is it running 3 years later?
Steve
 

turbodave

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2008
325
3
KY
Re: Anyone have a partially stripped block to hand? 2003 pump dowel comparison needed.

uglysteve said:
Turbodave,
How is it running 3 years later?
Steve


http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=74254


The Rover no longer ticks.

I used the same crank, rods, pistons, cam, followers, rockers, pushrods, sump, pulleys, ancillaries, flexplate, oil pump, front cover, belt, pullys, waterpump, heads, valves, manifolds, EGR system, solenoids, downpipes, driveshaft, startermotor, etc, etc, etc.
I just replaced the block with one that had been "top-hatted" (oviously I used new shells, rings, gaskets and ARP head studs too).

No more noise.

Very happy with the results. Can't say much more than that! :patriot:
 
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