ARP Headgasket Oil Leak

msggunny

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2007
2,978
3
Holly Ridge, NC
So, just to double check the procedure:

Clean, dry, chased threads in block.
install studs hand tight, dry
mount gasket
mount head
lube with moly lube both sides of washer, exposed threads on stud.
torque 20-50-80

I emailed ARP after looking around the web. Saw some "internet wisdom" that made me want to double check. A few sites stated that they found ARP literature stating that due to the rover's block that when using their moly lube it should only be torqued to 65. I couldnt find anything on their site saying this, or anything other than 80. If they answer in the affirmative or negative before I get the kit I will go with what they say, otherwise I will go off Dweb wisdom (with the way my luck has been in the past week I am sure Im fucked either way).
 
msggunny said:
So, just to double check the procedure:

Clean, dry, chased threads in block.
install studs hand tight, dry
mount gasket
mount head
lube with moly lube both sides of washer, exposed threads on stud.
torque 20-50-80

I emailed ARP after looking around the web. Saw some "internet wisdom" that made me want to double check. A few sites stated that they found ARP literature stating that due to the rover's block that when using their moly lube it should only be torqued to 65. I couldnt find anything on their site saying this, or anything other than 80. If they answer in the affirmative or negative before I get the kit I will go with what they say, otherwise I will go off Dweb wisdom (with the way my luck has been in the past week I am sure Im fucked either way).

That will work sir.

Double check the threads way in the back
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,923
460
Darien Gap
Finished re-torquing the head studs over the weekend. No effect on misfires. Oil leak was from rocker cover. Took care of that. Found that exhaust manifold bolts were very loose. Re-torqued those too.
 

msggunny

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2007
2,978
3
Holly Ridge, NC
FIVESPDDISCO said:
That will work sir.

Double check the threads way in the back

Done. Per recommendation I chased, cleaned, and then torqued 20-50-80. All went on with out a hitch.

This is the email I received from ARP:
"Hi Richard,

I have been in contact with our R&D department and they stated that as long as your threads in the block are in good condition you should be able to go to 80 ft lbs with no problems.




Thanks,
Sam Benson
Technical Support and Customer Service Supervisor
ARP, (Automotive Racing Products)"

When installing them finger tight as the instructions stated I had one that didnt fully seat. You could see a bit of space between the shoulder of the stud and the recess in the block. I pulled it out, checked the countersunk part of the block, and put it back in. Made sure it went all the way in with a bit of help from an allen key. I double checked them all with the allen, not cranking on them but making sure they were seated.

Lots of their assembly lube too. The first time i went to 50lb and the nut and washer gave way a bit i got that sinking gut feeling thinking that i had just stripped the threads out. Nope, just the lube doing its job.

Only issue I had was that in my excitement I didnt sort out the small studs. There were 3 sizes in the box, long , med, short. The short must have been for the deleted head bolts. I installed a few of the short ones and freaked for a second when I put the head on. Only saw 3 threads, stopped to think, and then sorted out the problem.

I am going to use blue loctite on the intake threads. Should prevent them from backing out and wont take a breaker bar to remove.

I may have lost one of the 3 bolts that secure the fan pulley to the waterpump. Anyone have an extra one they could send ASAP?

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Bosbefok

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2010
420
0
Orlando, FL
I was wondering how the heck you got the heads over the studs in the block and the block in the engine bay, from the photo it looks like you removed the engine mounts.
 

riceybean

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2008
861
0
Vancouver, WA
Bosbefok said:
I was wondering how the heck you got the heads over the studs in the block and the block in the engine bay, from the photo it looks like you removed the engine mounts.

Place the head on first then put in the last two studs.
 

msggunny

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2007
2,978
3
Holly Ridge, NC
Bosbefok said:
I was wondering how the heck you got the heads over the studs in the block and the block in the engine bay, from the photo it looks like you removed the engine mounts.

Nope, I ended up taking out the long studs and then putting them in when the head was on.