Attaching Rock Sliders

[kellymoe]

I am just about ready to make some sliders for my 130. Buying them is just not an option here in the states. While considering differant options for attachment I noticed that using 2x4 square tubing I could weld the sloders directly to the outriggers and do away with bolting anything on. The lines seem to be clean and I would have about 1/2" extending out past the body. What is the down side to doing this? It has not been done yet but I am seriously considering it. By doing it this way I also get a nice step, about 3" between the door bottom and the top of the slider. Other than it would be a pain to grind the welds to remove them if for some unforseen reason I had to take them off I cant see a down side.

BTW I would have posted this in the Defender Tech but I figure sliders is sliders and this section gets a bunch more traffic.

 

[CTA586]

Not familiar specifically with your 130 - but generally its suggested that sliders are removed at least anually to clean behind them to prevent corrosion. That would be a down side.

 

[kellymoe]

I could see that point with bolt on sliders but with weld ons I cant see anywhere there would be a spot where stuff would collect given the wlds are tight. But that is a good point. I will take a second look to see if there are any hiiden spots for crap to collect.

 

[andrewv]

I would give Dave Lucas (Slickrock Fab) a call and get his opinion. His attention to detail is the result of thinking through every option, and he may have some good advice. Shit, even John Lee carries his products

 

[kellymoe]

I would give Dave Lucas (Slickrock Fab) a call and get his opinion. His attention to detail is the result of thinking through every option, and he may have some good advice. Shit, even John Lee carries his products

Oh I forgot to tell you money IS a driving force here. I truely cannot afford to have someone else make them and I need them on in the next few days Looking for a ghetto quick fix but wanted to know downsides of doing it this way. Lucas makes some great stuff. I have his Sals diff cover. The thing is bomber.

 

[monkeyboy]

Hey Kevin,

I seem to recall Keith Tanner having some nice pics of his 88 sliders on his site including the attachment points...look http://keith.miata.net/landy/colorado2.htm about two thirds of the way down the page.

 

[KevinNY]

It would seem welding on some mounts to bolt to the sliders would be just as easy. If you weld them up just spray the back side of them with Waxoyl, in your climate you could never worry about them again. Sticking out from the body is a plus in my opinion, the whole point is to save the birmabright a bit. I've dropped and slid onto my Rovertym sliders (with the steps/nerfs) at times where non nerf sliders would have let my doors get eaten. I have ECR Rox sliders on my Series and they are bolted to the outriggers.

 

[kellymoe]

What the heck? I think I will just do it and see how it turns out. Thanks for the input, it gave me some things to consider. I will post up some pics when done. Unless it turns out looking like crap

 

[dave_lucas]

Lucas makes some great stuff. I have his Sals diff cover. The thing is bomber.

Flattery will get you everywhere

I personaly think it is a bad idea to weld them to the out riggers. There are ways that do not take much more effort/ tools/ material that will be better in the long run.

I will send you an email with some tips / ideas for your 130 Kevin.

 

[ca_surveyor]

Kevin,

Give me a call if you want. I have the Slickrocks on my RRC, so you could get a quick visual.

 

[kellymoe]

Kevin,

Give me a call if you want. I have the Slickrocks on my RRC, so you could get a quick visual.

David,

Did you buy another RR? I thought I saw you yesterday on Buena Vista. Differant RR but the driver was wearing a bright orange shirt.

 

[ca_surveyor]

Kevin,

Still the red RRC. Friday I was test driving my buddies green Disco. Maybe I am starting a fad with the orange. Did you figure out your slider solution?

 

[alia176]

I'd build them so that they stick out at least two inches beyond the sill. At least this way, you can use them as useful steps to access the roof. Or, you can bend up some DOM tubing and add them like nerf bars on the side of the slider tubes

 

[kellymoe]

Kevin,

Still the red RRC. Friday I was test driving my buddies green Disco. Maybe I am starting a fad with the orange. Did you figure out your slider solution?

I have the 2x4 tubing cut and the ends welded and capped. My 3 y/o daughter is napping so I have to take a break with the angle grinder til she wakes up I think I burned my retnas a bit while tack welding, I need to remember to close my eyes and turn my head. Snowblind in Burbank

 

[kellymoe]

I have the sliders welded and now just need to mount them. Here are a few pics of the sliders themselves and the truck prior to mounting and prep. I will post pics of the finished product only if it turns out nice

 

[marc olivares]

looks good kevin...are those OSHA approved wheel chock bricks?

 

[javelinadave]

Weld them on to the outriggers or fab up a tab for the front "firewall bolt" and bracket coming off the slider and bolt it to the back outrigger.

I still would have welded the whole thing up for the price of a lunch and soda! Nice job!
Don't forget to Line-X them when you are done. Should be less than $100.

 

[kellymoe]

Weld them on to the outriggers or fab up a tab for the front "firewall bolt" and bracket coming off the slider and bolt it to the back outrigger.

I still would have welded the whole thing up for the price of a lunch and soda! Nice job!
Don't forget to Line-X them when you are done. Should be less than $100.

Dave,

If you lived a little closer i would take you up on that. I am actualy having fun doing this between napping kids and running them to school Am am playing mr. mom this week. I gave my 5y/o a welders mask so he can watch.

Marc,
This is the first older rover I have had that actualy didn't need bricks to keep it from rolling. The E brake actualy works.

 

[ptschram]

Kevin:
The longer WB Defenders are actually easier to mount to as the rear mounts are more easily accessible and you don't have to add the tube in a tube like on the NAS 90s.

My design for Defender sliders utilize a piece of box channel cut away to sandwich the front bolts on the bulkhead. The rear bolt-on mounts are pretty self-explanatory.

As for the Discos, Dave's are the most robust I've seen and I've installed those from Bearmach, RTE and $-G. His channels appear to be much stronger than the welded assemblies of the others. RTEs are a close second, but I still like the one-piece channel Dave uses.

PT

 

[kellymoe]

Well here are few pics of the pasenger side. Basicly tacked on right now to the two rear outriggers but still able to hold me jumping up and down on them. Working on tabs for the front right now. I dont think I will put the sills back on, I like the fact that I can use them as a step with the gap between the slider and the doors.