Back to bare steel, I suppose... Mold killed it.
- Thread starter kennith
- Start date
Usually borax and ozone are enough, combined with some wipe downs and recirculation. Bleach isn't quite as effective as you might think long-term in tight spaces.
Ain't going to work this time, though. It's too far into everything.
Cheers,
Kennith
This is why you don't use orange juice as a leather conditioner.
It's just mildew, not mold. It comes from using a cheap leather conditioner and a high humidity level. Just wipe the shit off. If you're not using the truck put a light bulb in there, 75w+, and it will put off just enough heat so the mildew can't thrive. Or put something in there to adsorb the moisture.
It's just mildew, not mold. It comes from using a cheap leather conditioner and a high humidity level. Just wipe the shit off. If you're not using the truck put a light bulb in there, 75w+, and it will put off just enough heat so the mildew can't thrive. Or put something in there to adsorb the moisture.
ptschram
Well-known member
I'm in agreement with Chapman.
As for the HVAC vents, there are products that can be sprayed into the system to kill anything in there. VERY common.
That's nothing compared to a truck that has been badly drowned. Thymol works a treat for killing airborne stuff.
As for the HVAC vents, there are products that can be sprayed into the system to kill anything in there. VERY common.
That's nothing compared to a truck that has been badly drowned. Thymol works a treat for killing airborne stuff.
There's mold elsewhere. This was just easy to photograph right when I saw it.
I don't use cheap leather conditioner, I don't use it more often than required, and until now, this vehicle hasn't had any issues with humidity damage anywhere in the American continents. NC is one of the worst places, though, which is kind of funny.
It was either something I put in there, or something I carried in there from another car.
I'm going to wipe it down, because that's just common sense, but it's not going to cure the mold. It might get the surface mildew off the leather, but I'm not confident it's going to pull it all the way out. It might also seem to remove most of the visible mold, but there will be much more. In either event, I've got to pull the parts so I can make a proper mess and get all sides to see what happens.
There's more at stake than one car, here, as well.
If I don't get it all, it may transfer to another vehicle that'll be a fair bit more difficult and expensive to sort out than a simple DII. I've made that mistake before, and seen it happen to others. It's not happening here.
I'm going to put up another building so I've got climate controlled storage for all the vehicles. No more parking the Rover outside once I've got it cleaned out. It's never actually had a garage space.
I just can't mess with it more than a wipe down until my shoulder is sorted out. I'm not supposed to be moving it all around.
Cheers,
Kennith
It's been pretty darn soaked inside before, but that was only a few times, and years ago. I've never totally sunk it, but water has filled the floor more than once. I just cleaned everything out as spotlessly as possible after the fact, and the carpets weren't in.
I'm going to try what I can, but I'm not getting my hopes up. I've seen this before, and it was a nightmare to cure completely. Luckily I can pull everything out of here pretty quickly without much thought. Removing the interior isn't difficult at all.
I'm just glad I didn't put a new headliner in... That would have sucked.
Cheers,
Kennith
You're not going to get rid of it. The spores will always be there no matter what you. They've always been there. You just have to put it in an environment where it can't thrive.
In our lab when we need to decon (from bacteria, yeast, mold, fungi) an instrument such as an humidified incubator or a BL2 hood. We've use a company that will peroxide gas the unit. Takes a few hours to seal, gas and to neutralize. Wouldn't know if its ever been done with a vehicle.
But in the same idea as mentioned in Chapman's and PT's post, perhaps you could spray in the "cleaner" with the air vent open and then run it for a while with air in recycle mode.
But in the same idea as mentioned in Chapman's and PT's post, perhaps you could spray in the "cleaner" with the air vent open and then run it for a while with air in recycle mode.
Spores are always present. Some modern cars, and those equipped with positive-pressure cabins are less susceptible, but just getting in and out brings the contaminants along for the ride.
I've just got to get rid of anything alive in there, and scrub out as much as possible.
Cheers,
Kennith
I've got an ozone generator that will render anything left over pretty much inert, but in order to do that, I have to get most of the trim out. Ozone will turn polymers into dust very quickly in the concentrations needed to kill off all the leftovers.
It won't hurt my Teflon-insulated wires, but I'll have to wrap the connectors because nylon would be absolutely destroyed. Seems to me Weatherpack might have considered HDPE connector housings rather than nylon. It won't hurt the climate control system, as that's HDPE. Of course, that foam in there will be dusted, but that happens over time anyway.
You have to be careful with this stuff. It's dangerous and destructive; but that's why it works so well.
Spraying with hydrogen peroxide and leaving a borax film around finishes the job.
Most of what's available on the market to kill mildew and mold doesn't actually do very well, and a lot of times, even commercial operations are really just fucking you over, in the end. Once this stuff really gets into a car, there's only one way to reset the system, and that's to pull it apart and murder the fuck out of it.
Vaporized hydrogen peroxide, though; that's a different story. That works very well. It's much safer than ozone, but more difficult to arrange. I've already got an ozone machine that I plug into a socket and turn a couple of dials. It's pretty simple.
I could build a system to vaporize and distribute hydrogen peroxide or hire someone with the setup, but either way I'll have the other shit done before that's sorted. If I build something, I've still got to concentrate the solution. I don't know about hiring someone. It might be fast and easy, or might be slow and expensive.
Cheers,
Kennith
It's mildew. It's not the end of the world. Buy a dehumidifier and go back to your private island. Good lord.
There's mold in the vehicle as well, man. Do try to keep up...
I might just go to my island, actually. I could use some time relaxing at the waterfront.
You should get one too. It's quite entertaining.
Cheers,
Kennith
I am NOT an expert in molds and fungi, but...
I grew up in the rainforesty side of a Hawaiian island. Weird shit sprouting up on something was virtually a daily occurrence. We pretty much cleaned it up as best we could and went on with our lives.
Asking without snide, what's the big deal?
It's never happened before, despite being exposed to tropical climates and plenty of water over the years.
Now it happens all at once. That's interesting. It also needs to be sorted.
Mold and mildew don't belong in a sealed metal cabin designed and manufactured as recent as this, and I can't be spreading it to my other cars.
Cheers,
Kennith
Bah.
The only reason this is a problem is all the work I put into getting it looking stock inside, and the fact that I can't do much about it for a while. That's what's bothering me; not being able to address it quickly.
I don't really give a shit about much, but I have put quite a bit of effort into this vehicle over the years. I was just excited that it was looking new again; and now it doesn't.
I've had a rough few months. It's been wearing on me, so I figured I'd bitch about the Rover bit.
Cheers,
Kennith