Ball joint tool

[DeanBrown3D]

Hello all,

What do folks here consider the most useful type of ball-joint removal tool? Forks, C-clamp style, or the see-saw type pushers? I'm not specifically thinking of any particular joint, but I just changed the upper control arm on a lexus and one of these would have really been useful.

Thanks - and feel free to recommend a brand if you think they are well made.

-Dean

 

[Steve Rupp]

I used to use a c-clamp style a long time ago without a problem but now they just scare me. Now I use a bench press.

 

[ptschram]

Muskyman would say two hammers is the ONLY way.

I most often use a pickle fork but have the others if circumstances dictate.

Steve:
How do you get a swivel housing to the bench press? By bench press, do you mean arbor press? I've been thinking of getting one for universal joint replacement work. I'm curious as to just how big an arbor press one would need to persuade universals to come out of their homes.

 

[Steve Rupp]

Honestly it's been years since I've done a ball joint knuckle, but thinking about it now you'd really need the first ball joint out of the knuckle to do it on a press. I guess we'll see when it comes time to work on this d2 of mine. I might have to go back to the c-clamp tool.

 

[ptschram]

I was thinking we were talking about tie rod end tools.

I've done one set of knuckle joints on a P38 and don't want to do it again.

 

[Steve Rupp]

Oh if we were talking about rod ends then yeah the two hammer technique is the only way to go.

I was thinking about all of the dana 44 knuckles I've done on chevy pickups over the years.

 

[DiscoS2]

I use an impact hammer (air chisel) with a pointed tip. If the threaded end of the joint has a recess, I just put the tip in it, press firmly so it doesn't slip and zaaaaaap.
If it doesn't have a recess, I leave the nut threaded halfway on and zaaaaaap.
It's so easy and never a problem. i use the same technique for removal of rusted-in motorcycle swingarm axles.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

I have a huge C clamp style for doing knuckle mounted ball joints and it works wonders.

I just did the front of a F450 4wd last week and it made short work of the task. The secret is to hit the screw with the impact and then once under tension smack the side of the knuckle with a BFH.

Paul when you are dropping the TRE's to check and adjust swivel pre-load and use a pickle fork how do you prevent messing up the boots?

I just have never seen or heard of a down side of the hammer method so I will keep using it.

 

[peter sherman]

I have a huge C clamp style for doing knuckle mounted ball joints and it works wonders.

I just did the front of a F450 4wd last week and it made short work of the task. The secret is to hit the screw with the impact and then once under tension smack the side of the knuckle with a BFH.

Paul when you are dropping the TRE's to check and adjust swivel pre-load and use a pickle fork how do you prevent messing up the boots?

I just have never seen or heard of a down side of the hammer method so I will keep using it.

HHHMMMM! :rofl:
Spot on!

 

[gabriel]

i use a cheap napa ball joint press. I don't like using a pickle fork because of possibly bending control arms and i don't think i use the right swear words to get the double hammers method to work all the time.

Edit: Napa part #BK 7759095

 

[ptschram]

I have a pickle fork for when I'm not concerned about the tie rod end boots. Chances are if one thinks they need swivel preload set, they probably also need tie rod ends.

I also have one of the scissor looking tools, many hammers and a tools I made that threads onto the TRE and allows for a direct blow from above.

All will work and are sometimes necessary for various trucks.