Blown Head?

[ptschram]

Wow! I've never seen one where the problem couldn't be found by pressurizing the cylinders.

Drop the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system. Might be worthwhile to add some UV die to the coolant so it will show up better under black lite (or A/C leak detection light).

When you get the pan off, look at the base of the cylinders for evidence of water flow.

PT

 

[AMCM Disco]

Sweet, I'll do that tonight.

 

[AMCM Disco]

So what am I looking at if/when I do find this water leak... if it's a slipped liner what does that take for a fix? RAVE says they're cold pressed into place on alignment tabs. Is that somewhat fixable or is that a new block?

 

[derrickalda]

So what am I looking at if/when I do find this water leak... if it's a slipped liner what does that take for a fix? RAVE says they're cold pressed into place on alignment tabs. Is that somewhat fixable or is that a new block?

for what i've heard it means new block. lets hope its something else

 

[kyleduncan]

So what am I looking at if/when I do find this water leak... if it's a slipped liner what does that take for a fix? RAVE says they're cold pressed into place on alignment tabs. Is that somewhat fixable or is that a new block?

I just had a new liner put in my block. The right machine shop can do it. But then again, I haven't got it to run without a knock yet. I think I would suspect something other than liners if you aren't loosing any air pressure through them. With the pan off you can see quite a bit in there, especially with the truck on a lift. You'll probably be able to tell the general area that the water is coming from. Are you getting any knocking noises? D&D told me that knocking from a slipped liner is due to the liner coming in contact with the crank counter weights. You might check the counterweights for evidence of that.

 

[nursemcdonald]

A slipped liner (which DII's are prone to) is a labor intensive job. Did you have the heads resurfaced/remachined when replacing the gaskets?

Consider a new/used engine. I just replaced mine with a 4.6 and am completely thrilled with the performance... everything matches fine especially if the secondary air intake is properly plugged.

i will follow this thread...

 

[AMCM Disco]

No knocking when she runs. I did not get the heads machined when off, they came off very smoothly and very clean, the local guy who I asked to do it actually said it didn't need to be done. (he wasn't doing the gasket repair, just machining the heads)

When I got her back together she sang and sang... my rocker noises were even a lot quieter. Smooth pulling and no RPM changes/lack of response. My work schedule's peevin' me... but I should get the sump off tonight and check that water leak.

If it is the liners, I'm thinking of the 4.6L upgrade. Been seeing several other threads on hits and misses with it and as it's the family hauler for tons of camping trips I'm super stoked for that - not that I'm pleased I'll have to do an engine change. (helps with the long list of upgrades I've been working for - CDL, SLS to coil +2", ect ect ect... like extreme makeover in my garage!)

 

[AMCM Disco]

Alright, sumps' out and here it is: The water is dripping out from the timing gear chamber. More specifically the passenger side of the timing gear chamber, dripping onto the oil pickup pipe for the oil pump.

Is this the timing cover gasket? I understand the water pump mounts on the front cover, and pumps water into the block, so as there is no external leak of coolant if would not be the water pump gasket, but the front cover gasket that would seal the passage of the water from the front cover into the block?

Thanks for putting up with me as I learn this guys...

Oh, and the "special tools" for removing the pulley and timing gear oil seal? What is the preferred way of getting these out?

 

[ptschram]

You are SO lucky!

It might just be the front cover gasket.

Special tools not needed, a pry bar works well to get the old seal out.

Replace the water pump if it has more than 50K miles on it.

 

[AMCM Disco]

Well it seems for a first timer I'm definitely working my way all over this engine...

Thanks for the input PT!! I got some very cold beer with your name on it.

 

[kyleduncan]

Damn that's some good luck!! I wish i had just a bit of your luck.

 

[barefoot]

drop oil pan, remove sump, remove fan cowl (plastic shit), remove belt, remove viscous fan and pulley, unplug cam sensor and oil pressure sensor, remove crankshaft pulley, disconnect oil lines (i like to do it at the radiator as they are easier to reseat here...but, its a bitch pulling the hoses out/putting back in still attatched), remove 9 bolts securing front cover and pull forward. its a tight squeeze...try not to screw up the radiator journals.

try to avoid the paper gasket (i dont like em anyway). atlantic british sells the good ones but if you must paper...use some permatex gasket sealant. use right stuff on the oil pan. check your timing gear/chain set whilst your in there.

enjoy!

 

[AMCM Disco]

Alright... verdict in, finally finished.

Pulled sump. Coolant leak from the front cover area alone (as I pulled the cover bolts, coolant was just pouring out of the bolt-holes...).

Lesson learned:

1. The search button's great on here!

2. Barefoot's advice of going in through the transmission coverplate is great, I actually used (as the sump was off) the front side of the bell housing with my helper (and a great wife she is!) holding the prybar up to wedge the engine from turning.

3. The RAVE CD's got the bolt placement for the front cover wrong: the number 9 bolt is actually above the coolant pump intake (right above the number 7 bolt) and is NOT the one inside of the 8 bolt (as dipicted in RAVE).

4. Oil seal for crank is much easier to get off when the front cover's removed.

5. Front cover gasket is held in place by two "studs" on the block. One is high on the pax side, the other is low on the driver side. A small dab of RTV near the bottom helps to keep it in place over the bolt holes as it's a pretty flexible little guy and not all that co-operative.

Everything else went back in very smoothly. No events. She's up and running pretty sweet now and looking forward to the next 100,000 miles!

Thanks again to everyone with inputs! atriot: