I need to look at your truck next time I see it. Or maybe ou could drive it!D Chapman said:
Wanna help put in an intake plenum gasket this weekend?
Wanna help put in an intake plenum gasket this weekend?
Thom with the L/R jounce shocks mounted where you have them, how close do you get to bottoming out the rear suspension on full-bump? I was sizing those up a few months ago and they looked too long for the rear if you mount them under the frame with my RTE 3" and 10" Fox shocks, they seemed perfect for the front, but they looked like they'd rob too much travel in the back.
Edit: just re-read your post and it looks like the 5" springs answer my question, so I'll be mounting mine on the inside of the frame-rail.
Edit: just re-read your post and it looks like the 5" springs answer my question, so I'll be mounting mine on the inside of the frame-rail.
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maxyedor said:
I have to say I didnt ever think I'd be on 5" springs but now I am
inside the rails might get a bit tight on the driver side with the exhaust.
the other option would be to do what they do with them on the taco's and alot of the race trucks and mount them inside the spring. by doing that you have tons of room you could even run the 3" models.
http://www.lightracing.com/lightracingJounceCylinder.html
check out the lowest mount on this page , fab this into a lower spring retainer and you are half way there.
or the frame side mount to do a inside the frame style
check out the lowest mount on this page , fab this into a lower spring retainer and you are half way there.
or the frame side mount to do a inside the frame style
I've thought about running inside the spring, but then you have an issue with beefing up the spring perch so that when your course notes say it's a smooth wash and it's actually littered with 3-4ft drops you don't rip anything off. Exhaust isn't an issue in my case, it's been cut-off right after the cats with a turn-down to keep it moving in the right direction for over a year now.
I have some 2.5x4" Foxs in the shop that are going to go up-front and inside the spring when I move the shocks outside the spring and build the engine cage, the rear is the big issue at the moment, still not quite sure what I'm going to do with it. Also need to truss the axels, don't want any smiley faces.
I have some 2.5x4" Foxs in the shop that are going to go up-front and inside the spring when I move the shocks outside the spring and build the engine cage, the rear is the big issue at the moment, still not quite sure what I'm going to do with it. Also need to truss the axels, don't want any smiley faces.
A
ajh
Guest
I am very curious how these work out with 3" of lift or so. Anything that can improve the smoothness of the ride is great. (and, Muskyman sorry about earlier, you wouldn't believe my day that day and I think I was a little frustrated and impatient in general)
Bringing back this thread. I want to go the Jounce route but still need to figure which application size I need. For me it is a DII with RTE 3" lift. I want to keep it simple and mount them the way Musky did via the OEM bump stops. I am thinking 1.5"s up front and 3" in the back. If I'm way off HELP! I appreciate any expertise regarding these bad boyz.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
flyfisher11 said:
I would second a helpful opinion on that setup, but with an OME 3"....regardless, this jounce route seems very exciting... would love to see a pic of your setup under there Musky!
flyfisher11 said:
You might have it backwards...Thom's running 1.5" in the rear/3" in front, and he's got 5" RTEs.
MUSKYMAN said:I am running the 1.5's in the rear right now looking to install some of the 3" up front...then I can really start catching some air
From the lightracing website, the 1.5" bodies are 6" long (figure another 1/2-1" for the mount/end; the 3" version is 9"), so maybe that can help you - measure from frame to axel, see how much room is left.
I'm looking a 6.5" in the front and 9.25" in the rear from frame to axel. That doesn't seem like enough room to do the 1.5/3.0. I could put 1" spacers in but I don't really want to go up much more than the current RTE 3".
I just realized, I was thinking of the existing stock bump stop location. You could also try putting them inside the springs or inside the frame rail (see post above about the mount to select).
I just got off the phone with Mike at Light Racing. He is one of the R&D gurus. It sounds like the best setup is in the coils for these trucks but the 1.5" Jounce' will work fine for the rear in the stock location. He suggested that the best way to go in the front is to move the shock outside the coils and mount the jounce in there. I am going to have to cypher on this one but will probably go ahead and pull the trigger on the rears.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
Mike, mis-read what you wrote, yeah, you got it backwards...I can come with a shock mount for the front, outside the coil if your really interested...the problem using the stock mounting location up front would be mounting the axle pad, not so much the frame mount. Light Racing's inside the coil mount is really cool, and looks like the perfect solution for the rear...
here' what I did with my King's: 1st pic is the rear upper shock mount, you can kinda see the coil bucket top...it's boxed in now, so i can't get a better pic, the others the bump in the coil mount
here' what I did with my King's: 1st pic is the rear upper shock mount, you can kinda see the coil bucket top...it's boxed in now, so i can't get a better pic, the others the bump in the coil mount
Attachments
Thanks Frank. I might be interested in an external shock mount one of these days. I really do think these "pneudraulic" bump stops are the way to go. It is just a matter of getting the correct point of contact and distance. I don't want to lose stuffing ability but at the same time want to absorb some of the beating on the truck.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
They look really nice, but I am almost afraid to ask what they cost.
Is there a less pricey solutiuon to extend my stock bumpstops with something less technically advanced, or is there really sufficient cost justification for such a fancy bump stop? I need to make the stock one about 2" taller and need it to be bigger and firmer for the heavier rear end with gear and bumper and fuel can/camping rack etc.
I dont baja thru the trails and my rock crawls are smaller than what mongo assumably can do with his 37s...thanks for the pics btw-impressive!
just somethin I need to address before putting my 7100s on...how is it RTE sells these to D2 owners with no bump stop mod solutions, I cant be the only one concerned about complete suspension compression possibly damaging the pricey shocks..they werent made to be the bump stop but without any mods to the stock bumps...they are!
Is there a less pricey solutiuon to extend my stock bumpstops with something less technically advanced, or is there really sufficient cost justification for such a fancy bump stop? I need to make the stock one about 2" taller and need it to be bigger and firmer for the heavier rear end with gear and bumper and fuel can/camping rack etc.
I dont baja thru the trails and my rock crawls are smaller than what mongo assumably can do with his 37s...thanks for the pics btw-impressive!
just somethin I need to address before putting my 7100s on...how is it RTE sells these to D2 owners with no bump stop mod solutions, I cant be the only one concerned about complete suspension compression possibly damaging the pricey shocks..they werent made to be the bump stop but without any mods to the stock bumps...they are!
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yeah, I'm with ya, I still haven't found a way to mount mine up front because of the coilover mount....
After looking at another D2, you should be able to use the upper frame mounts, and weld the pad to the axle mount where it won't rotate the axle when in compression...
After looking at another D2, you should be able to use the upper frame mounts, and weld the pad to the axle mount where it won't rotate the axle when in compression...
gmookher said:
Gembo,
The coils on the RTE 3" will bottom out before the blings will so they are safe. My main concern is the heavy ass DII comes down hard and my thinking is the Jounce shocks will offset that. When you get the 7100s make sure to retain the rears IMHO. I use the inexpensive retainers from RTE just some 1/4" top and bottom and some bolts. Works good. Do you have the RTE watts? To get the most out of the 12" blingstiens the RTE improved watts will make a great deal of difference. One last thing. I recently sprung a leak on one of my rear 7100s. I had the reservoirs mounted to the shock. With this configuration the hose was really kinked up and eventually started leaking at the crimp on the hose. BTW the older 7100s have the rubber Aeroquip hoses. They are fat and prone to failure via rubbing etc.. I ordered a new one and low and behold they sent it with a smaller braided steel line. I had been meaning to change mine out to braided steel all along but sluffed off until failure. Anyhow save yourself some trouble and take the reservoir hoses up and over the upper coil mount in the rear and mount the reservoirs to the cargo floor. I just did this and there is no bind on the hoses and they are rock solid. I went in from the cargo floor and punched out holes big enough for the band clamps to slide through. I took the rubber isolators that come with the shocks and cut them almost in half so that there is a flat side and one round to fit around the reservoirs. I put the cut flat side up against the cargo floor and tightened down the clamps. To finish it off I sprayed some waxoil where I created the holes and then once dry dropped in some silicone rtv to where the band clamps exit the cargo floor. That way when you need to service you can just peal out the silicone. Hope this saves you some heartache.
Cheers,
Mike