ptschram
Well-known member
Bosbefok said:
Or, in extreme cases, you can just reach into the oil pan and pull out the front cam bearing.
No wonder it was ticking with low oil pressure at idle.
Camshaft Bearing And Oil Pressure Issues
- Thread starter DiscoDwayne
- Start date
Or, in extreme cases, you can just reach into the oil pan and pull out the front cam bearing.
No wonder it was ticking with low oil pressure at idle.
Bosbefok said:
Wonderful to learn this now, as I could have saved the cost of a new front cover. I had fifty users swearing cam bearing slippage can only be confirmed by pulling the motor. First time since 2000 DWeb has steered me wrong. First time for everything I guess.
ptschram
Well-known member
BenDronsick said:
It depends upon how the bearing is moving. If it's moving in a radial fashion, the oil holes won't line up and you won't be able to see it. If it's moving in an axial fashion, my experience has been you'll find the bearing in the oil pan.
DiscoDwayne said:atriot: Good news!!!I finally got the chance to investigate and repair the cam bearing last night. It wasn't spinning constantly and the block was not worn. (I dodged a bullet there!)
It was indeed the problem. It had slipped halfway out of it's home. My Uncle-in-law and I pressed it back into it's home, staked it to prevent it from rotating and put it all back together.
Fillered her up with oil and no more oil light at idle. She runs like a charm and I'm finally in business.
Thanks for all the input and advice!
atriot:i have the same problem on a 5.0 Supercharged JE Engineering V8. Any advice on the tools you used to pressed it back in it's place?
The issue with slipped bearings is a fairly rare occurrence, given the number in use and the various types of abuse they get.
A bigger issue is wear of the aluminium (aluminum) faces of the timing cover where the concentric-rotor oil pump runs.
Has anyone successfully worked out a refacing process for this housing that returns the size to new? I'd guess that you could machine the top mating face away to take out wear, but the rear face is recessed inside the housing and usually ends up being scored:
I know a new timing cover will cure the problem, but a good repair that was relatively inexpensive would be better.
Peter
A bigger issue is wear of the aluminium (aluminum) faces of the timing cover where the concentric-rotor oil pump runs.
Has anyone successfully worked out a refacing process for this housing that returns the size to new? I'd guess that you could machine the top mating face away to take out wear, but the rear face is recessed inside the housing and usually ends up being scored:
I know a new timing cover will cure the problem, but a good repair that was relatively inexpensive would be better.
Peter
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Here is my current issue with the cam bearings. The truck has approximately 115k miles and I've always used a K&N oil filter with Rotella T6 but on a drive home from Albuquerque the oil light came on about half a mile from my house. An oil gauge confirmed low numbers. So I went ahead and pulled the pan and didnt any metal in it and swapped out the oil pump and still low numbers. It wasnt until I pulled the lower intake manifold that I saw the bearing coming out.
115k Miles 04 Disco / K&N with Rotella T6
Sorry wouldnt let me up load pics but heres the link to the photobucket page I have
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp249/robk5150/Land Rover/IMAG0257.jpg
Sorry wouldnt let me up load pics but heres the link to the photobucket page I have
http://i416.photobucket.com/albums/pp249/robk5150/Land Rover/IMAG0257.jpg
We've used Chevron 10W-40 Diesel semi-synthetic in ours since the rebuild, good oil and keeps the engine clean internally.
Don't use K&N at all, very overpriced for what they are, genuine LR are cheap enough, and we run 8000 miles between changes as we are on LPG / CNG.
Peter
Don't use K&N at all, very overpriced for what they are, genuine LR are cheap enough, and we run 8000 miles between changes as we are on LPG / CNG.
Peter
30 weight oil is only good to 85F, per the owner's manual. This engine has always been low oil pressure/high oil volume. The oil pressure bypass kicks in at 45psi as I recall. Idle oil pressure is like single digits. I would change to a 40 or 50 grade oil.
I use Wix 51068, same as OEM from what I read. Not sure if K&N would restrict flow too much.
I use Wix 51068, same as OEM from what I read. Not sure if K&N would restrict flow too much.
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