Cargo floor-rust repair DI question

[Wander]

The outer channel of my cargo floor has rust from the rear to about 1/3 up toward the back seat. The rust is from the top and had to be from leaking windows/sunroofs that was left unchecked by the former owner(s). I've had trouble getting anyone to tackle this and not being a welder I was kind of stumped. I got a suggestion from a body shop the other day that i think will work, he suggested I get a sheet of aluminum cut to fit the area and using 3M 5200 silicone adhesive to fix it in place. I've used 5200 on boats and know that stuff is seriously good at bonding. I am planning to POR 15 the existing area and have already cleaned up the surface rust surrounding the holes in the floor. Should I close those holes with something like bondo before gluing the aluminum down and will I have some problem down the road from the aluminum bonded to the steel?

 

[ptschram]

I think you should do it right.
This is what I started with.

When I got done with it:

 

[Wander]

If I can find a welder willing to do it I will, that has been one of the problems, no one wants to do it and unfortunately I don't weld. There is one more person I am going to check with but if he won't do it-how about my plan B?

 

[jmonsrvr]

PT, if im not mistaken doesnt that floor piece (that you repaired) slide out once its unattached? or does the whole thing need to be cut out?

 

[kferg]

Have you tried a smaller welding shop? I bet the reluctance is the gas tank underneath. If you drop that I bet you can find someone willing to cut each spot weld and then re-weld something in. Or you could cut out each spot weld to save some labor cost. I had a few spots of rust along the channel between the floor and rear quarter that I cut out. Had a local shop here in New Bern weld in the void left with a plate and asbestos blanket between the floor and gas tank. Cost $45 in labor. For anything larger I'd drop the tank though.

 

[ptschram]

PT, if im not mistaken doesnt that floor piece (that you repaired) slide out once its unattached? or does the whole thing need to be cut out?

If the channel it rides in isn't rotted out, yes, you can drill the spot welds out and remove the loadspace. The problem is that often, the rot extends beyond just the loadspace into the channel around it. I suspect it captures water right there and rusts the whole thing.

 

[ptschram]

Cost $45 in labor. For anything larger I'd drop the tank though.

It is critical that the tank be removed to gain access and for safety.

The price you quoted was less than 10% of what it cost for me to fix the truck pictured.