Eric N. said:
You running the Tom Woods ones? The D2 doesn't have the options the D1 does for correcting pinion angle and my front shaft has pretty bad vibes now. I need to do something soon.
--Craig
Caster Correction
- Thread starter Arnival
- Start date
You running the Tom Woods ones? The D2 doesn't have the options the D1 does for correcting pinion angle and my front shaft has pretty bad vibes now. I need to do something soon.
--Craig
ptschram
Well-known member
Mike_Rupp said:
Someday, someday. Lemme get four tires that match and some shocks that won't break and then, I'll worry about pinion angles. That said, I did replace my front diff due to knackered pinion bearings so I can agree that wear is significantly accelerated with just about any lift-if one doesn't correct pinion angle.
Someday, someday (repeat as necessary)
PT
Yes, I'm running the Tom Woods MDC ones, I also have a compound angle in the front of the truck which is why I use them...
Marc, call BS if you want but, I don't have any vibes caused by the driveshafts... Rims, tires, and some thing else going on at 70mph-75mph yes but, that isn't from the drive shafts since I've had the issue with my old GBR DC shafts, the TW MDC shafts, and I had the pinion angle corrected (up/down) for the DC shaft (except the side to side angle) .. Now I have the front corrected for castor and use the MDC shaft and it works for me. I've had the truck setup this way for at least the last 4 years.
Now, I'm not saying that running MDC shafts is the right way of doing it... Setting the pinion angle, correcting the castor via the swivel balls, and getting the pinion lined up with the transfer case via a longer pan hard rod would be the way to do it.. Doing that however, may also cause you to have to move your passenger side cat convertor out of the way.. That's the problem that I have... There just isn't any room for me to move the axle back to where it should be and none of the exhaust folks around here want to touch the cat and the ones that will I don't want touching it ( if you know what I mean )... Not to mention, where to move it? Plus, I'm not sure if I'm going to change the lift height or not..
Marc, call BS if you want but, I don't have any vibes caused by the driveshafts... Rims, tires, and some thing else going on at 70mph-75mph yes but, that isn't from the drive shafts since I've had the issue with my old GBR DC shafts, the TW MDC shafts, and I had the pinion angle corrected (up/down) for the DC shaft (except the side to side angle) .. Now I have the front corrected for castor and use the MDC shaft and it works for me. I've had the truck setup this way for at least the last 4 years.
Now, I'm not saying that running MDC shafts is the right way of doing it... Setting the pinion angle, correcting the castor via the swivel balls, and getting the pinion lined up with the transfer case via a longer pan hard rod would be the way to do it.. Doing that however, may also cause you to have to move your passenger side cat convertor out of the way.. That's the problem that I have... There just isn't any room for me to move the axle back to where it should be and none of the exhaust folks around here want to touch the cat and the ones that will I don't want touching it ( if you know what I mean )... Not to mention, where to move it? Plus, I'm not sure if I'm going to change the lift height or not..
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marc olivares said:
Oh don't get me wrong, the castor is off, but it doesnt cause any problems or make driving difficult or cause nasty wobble or anything.
Eric N. said:
With a standard ujoint on the pinion you don't have to worry about clearances. I had a 5" lift and adjusted my axle back and the driveshaft cleared just fine. Just another reason not to use a "MDC".
Ruppsrover said:
Nope, the standard u-jointed single DC GBR drive shaft that I had with my 2 and 3 inch lifts already ate up the front end of my old cat convertor and snapped of the grease fittings and that was even with the axle offset towards the drivers side from the lift and stock panhard rod..... Not to mention if I were to move the axle back the u-joints or DC joints might not hit it now that I have 4 inches lift but, the shaft tube will.. I'm already using flush zerk mounts instead of the standard ones cause the one on the tube would hit the cats while wheeling if I didn't... The cat I have now is even closer to the frame rail then the stock one and it's skinnier too.
I'm thinking the guys at the factory were drinking durring lunch and then built my truck..
Like I said, it's not for every one but, it's working for me.
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