I have some questions about putting a CDL version of the front output housing onto my truck. I have asked other sources and posted on other boards but have yet to get any straight answers. Has anyone here done this modification with success?
CDL housing onto '03 D2
- Thread starter Hubacek
- Start date
A forum or web search will get you links to some good info and probably be quicker than waiting for answers from the few who having actual experience doing the mod.
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If it was me, I would just drop a 99-01 or 04 transfer case in. You can usually pick one up at the local boneyard cheap.
I have a good one in mine, and don't want to put in something that has 250,000 miles on it. My main concern is if I can swap housing only, or do I need the whole diff-gear set? Most of the write-ups include swapping housing with gears. I have also read a couple of threads where housing only was used, successfully. I already got the housing. I left the gear set because it did not come out like the write-ups said that it would. From what I could tell, the flange on rear output has to be removed or something. I removed everything possible and the gears didn't come out, so the flange should be the only thing left to hold it in. I was also wondering if I could use some kind of chemical/solvent to pour in and flush out that front housing before I install it, rather than disassemble and clean it piece by piece. I am also curious as to devices like window and door lock motors that I can utilize for the activation mechanism. I want to try that out before I go and install a shifter. Plus that would be 100 times cheaper than buying a cable-actuated version of the shifter.
Anyways, I'm going back for the gear set today or tomorrow if they don't hassle me about it. I just didn't have a socket big enough to pull the back drive flange at the time. Since I haven't been able to get any first-hand answers about this, I will just have to try housing only first, then do the whole shebang if I have to.
Well it seems you have chosen a course of action and have an extremely strong resolve so good luck and if you figure out a new actuator please post pics.
That's a deal. I will document this and make known what can and can't be done when going this route.
I don't think you "heard" the sarcasm in that reply. See how your actuators fare after a couple of water crossings.
Sarcasm huh? What if he's not a douche sack like you and is actually being serious. Same old shit. Anyways, I'm not adding it to cross rivers. That's the last thing I plan on doing. I might engage it to push some sucker out of the way if I'm stuck in traffic and need to get across the median or something like that. I really just want to do it so that I can add it to my signature on LRForumA. Pilot, you don't know shit anyway. All you do is lurk around all of the forums posting smart ass comments. You can get bent and stop wasting your own time. Better used driving your truck through river crossings. Say something worthwhile for once and maybe, just maybe we all won't think you're some idiot poser.
I've had a solenoid in my 2000 going on 10 years now. I wouldn't do the window motor but the solenoid has never let me down.
You are doing something the hardest way possible and it's probably still not going to work. You can buy a used locking t case with decent miles and a warranty for 250 dollars. You can buy a D1 linkage for 125. For 375 you have a ready to go locking t case and a linkage that you know will work. Compare that to swapping cases and rigging up some sort of unknown actuator through trial and error. If you value your time and something close to the minimum wage then I don't see how your way makes sense.
For what it's worth, I'll chime in to say that I swapped a D1 t-case and linkage into my old 2002 about 7 years ago. It was a fairly painless process, with good results. The case I used happened to be from a similar mileage D1 that I was parting out, but Drillbit's cost estimates are spot on, if anything somewhat conservative.
You're going to be spending the time either way, why not choose the tried and true path?
You're going to be spending the time either way, why not choose the tried and true path?
Just keep rocking this thing. I personally don't think you need the gear set. As for the actuation, the best and simplist deal I have seen is a rod running thru a hole in the floor that lays flat under the floor mat on the pass side. Guy picks up the mat / locks his diff / and drops the mat back down.
This is the hard way,but I get it. If it don't work then you can always go to the easy way as plan B.
There can't be another Land Rover Forum worth a shit. Why would you say that? You trying to start shit?
This is the hard way,but I get it. If it don't work then you can always go to the easy way as plan B.
There can't be another Land Rover Forum worth a shit. Why would you say that? You trying to start shit?
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What's so hard about it? I haven't gotten into the existing unit on my truck and I'm definitely not debating you on this because I know that you are certainly more knowledgeable than I am, but after I removed the Hi/Lo shifter housing, the 6-8 bolts and the 20 lb. F/O housing, I was done, took 30 minutes working slow and methodical. Except I did go back and pull that gear-set out of the factory original CDL case but there wasn't anything holding it in like I thought...the Hi-Lo fork was just sticking and created a shit-ton of resistance. If I can use my current gear set and all I'm switching is that 20 lb housing, what's the problem? Or tell me what I'm leaving out. I would rather handle that than the entire unit. If I have to go a little further with the gear switch then so be it, I will just block off a whole weekend for the project. I already have these parts that I got a great deal on so Im just gonna roll with it. The write up from Club Virgin Islands made it look painless. It is very detailed and seems much easier than doing a whole 230 swap. I won't even have to jack my truck up. And it will work, it's already been done successfully and you know it. Who pissed in your Cheerios?
Who? Me? Maybe I did, maybe I pointed-out the flaws and got his asking price dropped $2k. Don't worry about it. Why would you even make a statement like that when I started the thread asking about a TC housing swap?? Doesn't make any sense. Grow up dude. I saw where someone was talking shit about you on another random thread.
:applause:
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Did you get that LR CDL-specific solenoid that whoever they were manufactured for a while? Or was it something generic that worked just as well?
Well I don't think he's really worried about you or what you paid for your truck. I would have gotten the housing off a t case I have that has a exploded diff in it. A tube of RTV sealer that fit in my pocket on the way out of work and slammed the shit together. Then I would have had to throw out the t case cause now it's gonna make a mess leaking all over the place. But I'm just lucky that way. I'm a cheap fucker.
But you said you know another Land Rover Forum that you post on? How can that be? See that's what makes me think you your just over here starting trouble. What did Disco Mike tell you? Did he ask you to pm him and turn the lights down low so he could show you how that goodjy fits in that thingamajig?
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http://www.landroversonly.com/forum...t-57375/#/forumsite/20681/topics/57375?page=1
http://landroverclubvi.weebly.com/uploads/2/3/9/8/2398536/cdl_install_write_up_5-17-10.pdf
QUOTE=Keanan;422535]
Agreed, it is NOT a 2 hour job! Maybe only 1-1.5 hours tops.
If all a person is doing is tossing the front cone on then it can be done in less than two hours by a relatively competent mechanically inclined person. If you are trying to hook up linkages and make stuff light up it will take a few hours.[/QUOTE]