Changing to non-flex joint rear driveshaft

[terryjm1]

My flex joint was cracked and on its last legs so I decided to get a (used) non-flex joint drive shaft to replace it. i installed the new u-joints and went to work. As I had the driveshaft off anyway I decided to investigate the non-working parking brake. Pulled off the brake drum to find not only a broken brake cable but also brake shoes coated in oil. So, I ordered a new seal and flange for the t-case. Got that job done and went to remove the flex-joint flange from the rear axle. I watched a video from Paddock spares that showed using a socket with M8 bolt and nut to pull the part of the flange to gain access to the flange nut. I tried and broke the bolt trying. I tried another bolt and stripped the nut. While the video made it look easy and they did not use heat, I am thinking for my 3rd try i will apply some heat to the flange. Any thoughts on that?

 

[terryjm1]

On the topic of the flex joint (or whatever Land Rover calls them), I had a Fiat Soider when I was a teen. From memory, it was much more stoutly made/thicker and the car was about 1/3 the weight of the Disco. I don’t recall hearing of one breaking. However, I didn’t like them then, either. I took the driveshaft and gearbox out of a Fiat station wagon and replaced both in the Spider. I had to shorten the driveshaft. The transmissions in the Spiders were super weak. The wagon gearboxes were much better.

 

[discostew]

I’m guessing your talking about a rotoflex coupler as apposed to a u joint. That little spacer kind of reminds me of a pilot bushing in the back of a crankshaft.
The way you get that out of the flange is a tool that threads down into it, then pulls it straight out. I remember the new guys would break the little threaded rod at the end of it by trying to turn the puller shaft without holding that part of the tool stationary.
If you remind me tomorrow I’ll post up a picture of the thing.

 

[discostew]

I like running rotoflex couplers cause they isolate a lot of road noise. Problem is as soon as you get it lifted just a little bit they introduce a vibration.

 

[FatMcNasty]

Had to use heat on mine to break the loctite that was on the taper in the flange.

 

[terryjm1]

“I’m guessing your talking about a rotoflex coupler as apposed to a u joint.”

Yes, thank you.

 

[discostew]

Here’s that puller.

 

[ptschram]

The centering pin is anchored with a Loc-Tite variant.

as you are not reusing the flange, the pin, or the seal, heat isn’t likely to cause any problems, but, if you are concerned, grab a piece of brass, or similar, put it up against the pin and give it a bash with a hammer to break the epoxy loose.

OR, you can build a slide hammer to pull it out as well

 

[discostew]

Yeah if I didn’t have that puller I would be rigging up something for my slide hammer. That threaded stud coming out of the end of the puller is what the new guys would always break. I would replace it with an exhaust stud to get up and going again. But the exhaust stud is too soft.

 

[p m]

You can always drill out the hole and tap it for something more sensible, like 10 mm or larger.

 

[K-rover]

This is how I removed mine. The 3/8 extensions worked great. Mine came out without heat.

 

[terryjm1]

Thanks for all the helpful replies. I got the job done today. I will say, I believe my issue was previous owner caused. I tried again with a new bolt and got the flange as hot as I could with a propane torch. Same result, broken bolt and no movement. So, I decided to get the acetylene torch out and got the flange cherry red hot. It did come out but was a bear all the way out. There were evenly spaced gall marks all around the thing. I suspect someone took it apart previously to change the seal and chiseled some lines to accentuate the friction fit to assure it didn’t come back out. The pinion nylock nut also had no nylon at all. It had the recess where it once was but was completely gone. I thought for a moment I melted or burned it up but there was literally nothing there at all, melted or burned.

Unfortunately, with the flange out I discovered the source of the ”clank” sound when I put it in reverse. There is a lot of slop between the crown wheel and pinion gears. Is this typical at 155,000 miles? Fortunately, I have a complete and low mileage spare axle assembly. When I get around to replacing bushings I will probably swap in the spare axle.

One puzzling thing about the spare axle assembly is that it already has the u-joint driveshaft type pinion flange. But, it is a different design with a bolt holding it on instead of a nut. Did LR change to a different type at some point on D1s?

While I was under it, I changed the diff and transfer case oil. The diff oil was really nasty and smelly, rear worse than the front. But, the t-case oil looked pretty good and there was only a tiny bit of metal on the plug.

Oh, this is also the first time I drove it since I changed the transmission fluid. Shifting definitely has improved. The late hard shift to 4th gear is gone and it shifts right into 4th hear at 52 mph like it should. It also took about a quart and a half more to fill it than what came out. I knew it was low but not that low. The pan gasket was leaking a decent amount.

Now, I can finally drive it. Next project is to get the headliner back it. Then, I will think about how bad ($$$$) I want to get it repainted.

 

[terryjm1]

I like running rotoflex couplers cause they isolate a lot of road noise. Problem is as soon as you get it lifted just a little bit they introduce a vibration.

After 27 years of sirens, my hearing isn’t the best. I probably do have more road noise now but I can’t hear it… and it probably helps me not hear my wife. I have been hearing that “noise” long enough.

 

[discostew]

The clank noise was pretty typical always for these trucks. You can adjust the backlash out of them but setting them up will be almost impossible without the correct tool. I’ll post up a pic of one I have on loan from someone I need to return it to.
I find when I take them apart these days even the ones that aren’t too loud are sitting at .020” backlash. I like them at .004”. Getting them right is a long tedious process. Fist you turn the adjuster that would push the ring gear towards the pinion. Then when you reach 0 lash you switch over to the other adjuster and turn that to push the ring gear away from the pinion till you reach an acceptable backlash reading. So your adjusting the preload on your side carrier bearings at the same time. Preload is your friend in there, it quiets all of it.
Also worth noting is the fact that when that backlash gets out of wack reall bad it’s usually because one of those side carrier bearings is failing. You’ll see the pitting on the bearings if that’s happening

 

[discostew]

After 27 years of sirens, my hearing isn’t the best.

I can’t hear shit anymore either. I have to get a young kid to hear rattles for me. High pitch noises are gone for me. Like a scraping backing plate if it’s a really light sound I can’t hear it at all.
I hear crickets all the time. I’m starting to think these young guys with all the hearing protection are on to something.

 

[terryjm1]

‘I’m starting to think these young guys with all the hearing protection are on to something.”

We didn’t have hearing protection on the trucks for my 1st ten years. I have “high frequency” hearing loss. As women have (typically) higher pitch voices, I can validly claim that is why I can’t hear my wife, particularly when driving and there is constant background noise.

 

[discostew]

In one ear out the other Terry. Selective hearing is great. We earned it. Sometimes I hear her, but don’t feel like rehashing some bullshit, so I just keep going like I didn’t hear it. The key is to smile, cause she thinks if you heard it you wouldn’t be smiling anymore.

 

[rovercanus]

... I can’t hear my wife, particularly when driving and there is constant background noise.

Isn't your wife the constant background noise?

 

[discostew]

I got a smart ass 23 yr old kid who fucks with me. He starts talking real quiet and tries to make me think I’m even deafer than I am.

still don’t care.

 

[ptschram]

You kids get orf my lawn!

after 69 Dead shows, drag racing cars and motorcycles, 20 years of shooting trap multiple days per week, duck/goose hunting and 40 years in industry my hearing was poor.

Chemotherapy destroyed what little was left!

I would rather be alive and deaf rather than the alternative

Walking is a challenge without hearing

You guys would be amazed at the things in life that are far more difficult when one has deeply impaired hearing