Coil for 95 Disco
- Thread starter Lino
- Start date
Lino, yes you can - but consider this: I've become much happier having replaced the Accel hi-perf coil on my '68 Wagoneer with a stock coil for an '89 RRC, all my ignition issues went away.
The only real reason for high-voltage coils is high compression - using it as a band-aid to fix other engine woes is wrong.
The only real reason for high-voltage coils is high compression - using it as a band-aid to fix other engine woes is wrong.
I was just thinking if the spark was stronger it would start better in cold temps. In anycase I am looking for the complete factory mod items required for cold starting problems. I have friend who works at a LR looking for me but he can't find it.
Anyone have it.
Thanks
Lino
Anyone have it.
Thanks
Lino
if you are refering to the accel big yellow box? type coil...I wouldent waste your time.
all it takes is forgetting the key is on and those crap coils will heat up and crack letting all the oil run out then they fail and some have even started on fire
the accel coil is just left over 80's crap
all it takes is forgetting the key is on and those crap coils will heat up and crack letting all the oil run out then they fail and some have even started on fire
the accel coil is just left over 80's crap
ptschram
Well-known member
I'm gonna agree with Peter and Musky. The only coils I have seen fail on a Rover are the Accel, both the big yellow box and the pretty chrome ones. I believe they have more ullage and as a result, if inverted, the coils can overheat leading to a sticky gooey mess on the inner fender wells of Defenders. If you shake a stock coil and an Accel, you can tell there are vastly different amounts of oil in themby the sloshing in the Accel, but not the Bosch, nor Lucas.
Go to Napa-they have several suitable replacements for our trucks.
Go to Napa-they have several suitable replacements for our trucks.
This is the way to fly
Forget Accel. I put a MSD in and it works GREAT! Night and day differrenence.
http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/classic/engine/msd.html
Heres a link to a article I made about it.
I wish I would have done it sooner.
Forget Accel. I put a MSD in and it works GREAT! Night and day differrenence.
http://www.rangerovers.net/rrupgrades/classic/engine/msd.html
Heres a link to a article I made about it.
I wish I would have done it sooner.
Chris,
I went through a bunch of MSD stuff on my [oil-burning] jeep, and the ignition didn't make as much difference as the wires. The 6A brick now resides in my '68 Wag with a healthy Buick 350 so I don't have to adjust the points every two months or so, but as far as engine running, it didn't do much difference.
Also, my guess is the HEI (4-pin) ignition module should work great for the Rover V8.
I went through a bunch of MSD stuff on my [oil-burning] jeep, and the ignition didn't make as much difference as the wires. The 6A brick now resides in my '68 Wag with a healthy Buick 350 so I don't have to adjust the points every two months or so, but as far as engine running, it didn't do much difference.
Also, my guess is the HEI (4-pin) ignition module should work great for the Rover V8.
p m said:
Oh great! Here we go again.
For our friend Lino, A MSD is going to work 1000 times better then a crap Accel pretty yellow coil.
And, if it goes south, you can buy MSD stuff anywhere. Your Rover Moduale takes a crap in the middle of knowhere.....Your F-ed!
true - almost; what you can indeed buy anywhere is an HEI or TFI module. From $15 for a generic to ~$70 for an MSD-branded (or even made) one. Either one will work as good or better than Rover ignition amplifier.
As far as coils go - my only MSD Blaster coil shorted, causing the MSD module to burn out.
No more fancy painted shit for me
As far as coils go - my only MSD Blaster coil shorted, causing the MSD module to burn out.
No more fancy painted shit for me
Lino, I don't think there's a conclusive test. A coil could appear perfectly okay while tested with an ohmmeter, and fail intermittently in real conditions.
If you use an ohmmeter, the resistance of the primary winding should be between a few tenths of an Ohm to a few Ohms, and secondary (high-voltage) between a few hundred Ohms to a few kOhms. I don't know the exact numbers for a Rover coil. That's practically all you can check easily.
If you use an ohmmeter, the resistance of the primary winding should be between a few tenths of an Ohm to a few Ohms, and secondary (high-voltage) between a few hundred Ohms to a few kOhms. I don't know the exact numbers for a Rover coil. That's practically all you can check easily.
Accel...don't waste your $, time or inconvenience . I've seen so many fail. In Rovers and others.
I've been using MSD Coils on my Rovers for quite a while.
Readily available, inexpensive, tried and proven.
For how cheap they are....
Don't forget the resistor.
I've been using MSD Coils on my Rovers for quite a while.
Readily available, inexpensive, tried and proven.
For how cheap they are....
Don't forget the resistor.
S
ShaunP
Guest
I've found you need to be a bit carefull with choice of high energy coils on cars that run 14CUX injection. The ECU derives it's engine speed sense from the coil just like a tacho. Some coils seem to confuse the ecu and the thing runs like a pig because the ecu doesn't know how fast the engine is reving. I suppose you could fix this with a tacho drive module, but it's easier just to fit the right coil.