compression test, one low cylinder
- Thread starter gthphotography
- Start date
I meant close to firing order but my mind did forget how the engine opposes odd & even.
With my motor I could actually hear back fire pops in the intake so that residual fuel and air was causing misfires in cylinders that the cam was fine on.
With my motor I could actually hear back fire pops in the intake so that residual fuel and air was causing misfires in cylinders that the cam was fine on.
Not a chance, and honestly not even worth trying. Removing the upper intake isn't really much trouble.
So you have a nice blue colored spark if you hold the wire close to the plug while running? Helps to do this in the dark. You can also pull the wire and put a spark plug into the boot, place the plug close to the motor so it can ground out. You can them watch the strength of the spark.
I've had coils fail on just on hole even though the coil packs run in series.
I've had coils fail on just on hole even though the coil packs run in series.
don't have a reader for that.
they are going, the more I drive it with the misfire the worse they will get.
The misfire showed up before the exhaust started smelling.
The only thing I haven't done yet is the injector. And I'm not doing that until late july.
Starting the 10th, the truck will sit until then. So I'm not in a rush.
they are going, the more I drive it with the misfire the worse they will get.
The misfire showed up before the exhaust started smelling.
The only thing I haven't done yet is the injector. And I'm not doing that until late july.
Starting the 10th, the truck will sit until then. So I'm not in a rush.
Download the Torque app and get a $10 bluetooth OBD2 dongle from ebay. Best money you can spend for diagnostics.
Depending where you pull it.....
Firstly the engine will misfire, and secondly your eyes will light up in sync with the misfiring cylinder,
or it may only misfire if you don't become the path to ground.
that gives live o2 readings in a format that makes sense, as opposed to scanguage with its arbitrary readings.
Yeah, that's what I thought and know as I once shot myself out of my engine compartment doing just that.
UPDATE : anyone know where that drop of coolant is coming from? for what it's worth, after I installed a new fan that sits in front of the radiator, my engine Temps are perfect. I recently removed that stupid black plastic thing shrouding the bottom of the engine,and it is quite possible that that leak had been there since the engine was completely redone about 08/09, and I just never saw it.
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Looks to me like somebody forgot to put sealant on the long bolts for the water pump.
That lower engine tray seems to capture gallons of leaked fluid, and you'd never know it. Removing it can be eye-opening.
UPDATE:
As I tear into the truck, more and more issues are arising, like those silly SAI tubes into the engine that broke.
And the flimsy piece of plastic that butts up to the o ring on the injector that broke and fell down the injector hole into the engine (i believe I will be able to remove that after removing the heads, if I take it that far).
Let's see, what else:
Old green coolant under the valve covers (no coolant in the oil pan btw)
scorching all over the rockers
stuck bolts on the exhaust manifolds (12mm 12pt fits but the 12mm 6pt does not, ok)
I'm pretty positive that this is all fixable rather easily, but if things keep breaking, I'm not sure if it's worth throwing a couple of thousand bucks at.
Any guidance from you gurus?
As I tear into the truck, more and more issues are arising, like those silly SAI tubes into the engine that broke.
And the flimsy piece of plastic that butts up to the o ring on the injector that broke and fell down the injector hole into the engine (i believe I will be able to remove that after removing the heads, if I take it that far).
Let's see, what else:
Old green coolant under the valve covers (no coolant in the oil pan btw)
scorching all over the rockers
stuck bolts on the exhaust manifolds (12mm 12pt fits but the 12mm 6pt does not, ok)
I'm pretty positive that this is all fixable rather easily, but if things keep breaking, I'm not sure if it's worth throwing a couple of thousand bucks at.
Any guidance from you gurus?
Hey guys, I'm in the middle of trying to do a head gasket change, and I can't get bolt #1 from the left hand side. I've actually broken one swivel joint and one 3" extension.
Any ideas.
It's been soaked in PB Blaster, and I'm using a breaker bar on a torque wrench.
Any ideas.
It's been soaked in PB Blaster, and I'm using a breaker bar on a torque wrench.
Assuming you're talking about the rear-most bolt - don't use swivel joint. IIRC, I bought a 1.5" extension for this specific purpose - and you definitely need a tight 5/8" socket. No need in torque wrench - any breaker bar and maybe a hi-lift jack handle over it.
Good luck with that bugger.
Good luck with that bugger.