Marc has some good observations and some thing I'll address further
singingcamel said:
Heres my thoughts on your problem . You probably have a cracked liner or a cracked block issue.
Cracked blocks and liners are very rare. What is not so rare is for the liners to move allowing either mixing of coolant and exhaust gases, or the venting of exhaust gases into the cooling system. Either way, it's not good and mostly semantics, but the block material rarely cracks.
singingcamel said:
The crack is allowing the exhaust stroke to dump the end products of combustion into the defect thus pressurizing the system .
It is probably happening during the compression stroke, ot the exhaust stroke. During much of the exhaust stroke, the combustion chamber is open to the atmosphere.
singingcamel said:
I cannot prove thisnext point but i think all the pressure is shunted to the upper hose and radiator not allowing the coolant to circulate correctly leaving the lower hose cool and pressurizing the whole system and causing the overflow at the expansion tank.
Close Marc! What happens is that the gas displaces the coolant and thus, there is a huge air bubble formed at the top of the engine. This is also why the heater quits working-all of the coolant has been either sucked into the combustion chamber, or otherwise purged from the cooling system.
singingcamel said:
I have 2 disco 11 s at the shop right now with the same problem.
the scenario is as follows for most crackeed sleeves or blocks.
The engine starts to over heat and pressurize , everyone jumps to the conclusion it must be the head gaskets,they replace them and still the pressurizing continues.
The next step is to blame the radiator and that gets replaced , but the pressure continues.
Yes the radiator could be the culprit on some rare occasions but very few are the real cause.
A bad water pump will cause heating issues but rarely hard upper and lower hoses and a pressurized system
the hard upper and lower hoses are a sign of pressure usually due to a block failure of some sort . But I would change that thermostat because thats the cheapest option at this point..Good luck and keep us all posted.Do a compression check to isolate the bad cylinder.....
I don't know how you'd know it was the block if you didn't replace the head gaskets. I have encountered this situation countless number of times. So far, I have yet to have a situation where I replaced the head gaskets where it was the block and not the head gasket. That said, Marty just got a '99 P38 from me where it was so badly overheated that the cylinder heads were leaking coolant from beneath the valve seats. THAT engine got hot enough that I refused to merely replace the head gaskets.
Now that I've said that, I tend to think that if folks did not allow these engines to get SO hot, they'd be fine with just ahead gasket replacement. I really think that far too many folks think that they can add coolant when the heater quits working... For some reason, the DII tends to be less tolerant than the GEMS engines.