Crap now what - Rear Brake Pads and Rotors

[Zeus]

Daaaaa?

Just bought some EBC rear pads for my '99 D1. They came with the wear sensor/wire.

Does my D use this sensor? - Can I cut it off or should I return them?
Are rotors easy to replace - are calipers easy to remove?
Should I repack the rear bearings at the same time?

Man what have I gotten my self into?

 

[Apexdisco]

You'll be OK cutting the sensor wire off.

Do searches for the remaining items you have questions on.

It's all DIY stuff.

How many miles on your truck?

 

[Zeus]

78k miles. I had the front replaced around 60k. I though I would try to do the rears myself.

I did a search for rear brakes, rear brake install,... and a couple others...came up empty.?

Do you know of any links?

 

[DiscoJen]

Cut it

The pads are universal to fit a RRC or a DI, with the only difference being that the RRC uses the wire. For the DI you just cut the wire as close to the pad as you can get and install as usual.

Good luck, and be sure to put some of that stop squeak goo on the back plate of the pads. I didn't and mine squealed like a mother! Thanks again to Trey for the lesson on getting rid of that darn noise.

Jen

 

[neil30076]

Check out : http://www.4x4wire.com/rover/maintenance/front_axle/wheel_bearings/
this a good indication of what the back brake job is like also, except on the back you must undo the brake line ( and pressure bleed brakes when you are done).
Neil

 

[Apexdisco]

http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=2547&highlight=rotors

Also check the archives for stuff.

 

[JHook]

I replaced mine and it was an easy job. Definitely repack the bearings while you're doing it. The only snag was getting the rusted rotor of the wheel hub. A one pound sledge and some aggression work fine for me.

John

 

[D Chapman]

Jen, did you have Lockheed pads?

Zeus, it's really a easy job. You will need a 12 point, 13mm socket to get the caliper off. Also, use some blue loctite on the caliper bolts before refitting them. It's not a bad idea to re-pack the bearings while your in there. At least squirt some grease in there before you refit everything. Before you compress the calipers to fit the pads, put some paper towels, or something to catch the break fluid that may/may not come back out of the master cylinder. To compress the caliper, you can use the old pad and a "C" clamp. Oh, and if you don't have it, you need a "hub not tool" or a 2 1/16" (I think) socket to get the hub nuts off and back on, and some new gaskets or gasket goo for the axle flanges. After you get the one side done, the other side is cake.

 

[antichrist]

I used the pads with a wire on my '95 DI, no problem.
You can also use this opportunity to change to the better Defender double lips hub seal.

 

[Zeus]

I'm cool with everything until removing the hub. I'm kind of short on REALLY BIG SOCKETS. It seems everyone thinks I should repace the bears - correct?

But say I wasn't going to repack ... do I still need a RBS? or will the rotor fall off after I remove the caliper?

Thanks for all the links but they are for the front assembly.

 

[Lucas]

I just did the front and rear rotors and pads on my 1994 D1. I also repacked the bearings and replaced the seals while it was apart. Even replaced the shocks with some Bilsteins. Be careful of the brake lines on the calipers, they are solid and can kink. I was able to remove them and use a homemade hook to hang them on the spring while I worked on the rotors. It was fairly easy. The tough part was getting the hub nut tightened correctly. Not too much and not too little. You will need a hub nut socket and some hylomar on the hub gaskets to keep the water out.

 

[ptschram]

A one pound sledge and some aggression work fine for me.

John

Please don't do this! You run the risk of tearing up the sealing surface and you'll never get the hub to stop leaking.

It is not necessary to remove the hose from the caliper, just be gentle.

 

[Lucas]

Please don't do this! You run the risk of tearing up the sealing surface and you'll never get the hub to stop leaking.

It is not necessary to remove the hose from the caliper, just be gentle.

Rubber mallet and a wooden block worked for me. No need to remove brake line if you are careful.

 

[p m]

I replaced mine and it was an easy job. Definitely repack the bearings while you're doing it.

if you don't plan on replacing the rotors, don't pull the hubs, especially at 78kmi.
Pads alone take about 10 min per wheel - pulling the hub brings you to half-hour per corner, with an added risk of ruining the seal.

 

[gardrover]

I have a question along these lines...

I need to replace my rear rotors, i was hoping to put on some EBC's but, the guys at Atlantic British told me that that would screw up my braking if i only redid the rear.

Can i use EBC rotors and pads on the back of my disco and leave the front stock without jerking brakes?

If not, can I use the EBC pads with regular rotors?

 

[Zeus]

I have run cross drilled and slotted rotors on the front and stock on the rear of my truck for 20K miles - no problem. I am now going to put the performance rotors on the rear.

 

[gardrover]

what type do you use??

 

[DiscoveryXD]

pic 1. Here's the rear EBC's finished...

pic 2. Here's how to remove the rotor from hub. Place it in the wheel!

pic 3. Removing the hub. Place two 2x4's under the rotor, and across the tire. Tap it out with a rubber mallet

pic 4. Removing the drive member. Place a tire iron, or something equivalent against the stud. Be sure to protect the stud with somethin like plastic sleeve.

 

[Zeus]

Thanks Mat, What does it take to remove the rotor-hub assembly fron the truck after the caliper is off?

 

[DiscoveryXD]

Since you stated in your previous post, I'll talk about the rear.

Before you do this, use a 10mm (i think) to loosen the ABS sensor ring nuts. They're located on the outer side of the rotor, you'll see them. It makes it easier to break them free before you remove everything.

1. Undo the caliper and secure it to one side. (a bungy cord works fine)
2. Remove the five bolts and withdraw the axle shaft.
3. Bend back the tabs on the lock washer. Undo the locking nut, remove lock washer, then remove the adjusting nut, and last the spacing washer.
4. Remove the hub and rotor assembly. (be carefull not to let the bearings fall out when you pull it off. The outer bearing is right behind the spacing washer.)

Hope that helps. Let me know if you have other questions. I replaced all my brakes with the EBC kit about 2 weeks ago, so it's still pretty fresh in my head.


Matt