Are you sure they are ds vibes?
And proper angle won't help joint wearing out. Mine is nearly perfect and it still eats them.
And proper angle won't help joint wearing out. Mine is nearly perfect and it still eats them.
+3 degrees from zero, or in addition to the existing castor angle?
-Ash
Scrub radous has no effect of straight line tracking...... Hell even General motors doesn't give a shit about scrub radius or even Ackerman angle for that matter for production vehicles .
Are you sure they are ds vibes?
And proper angle won't help joint wearing out. Mine is nearly perfect and it still eats them.
Eh, that doesn't discount it as a factor. I didn't imply that it'd improve straight-line tracking, but you ought to see an improvement in steering feel if you pull the SR in some.
Also, per your post above, 3 degrees positive isn't anything absurd. Toyota calls for 3 degrees at ride height on the 80 series trucks, some guys are running 6+ on their cut-and-turns.
Yes , I've replaced the t-case bearing twice and the flange once. I've been getting 3-7k out of all the double cardean joints . not to mention all the travel I've been giving up.
Yes I have an adjustable panhard and the pinion is centered.
I also currently have 3° of positive caster ( top ball joint tipped back) I did correct for caster when I lifted the truck ( made new link mounts).
How am I giving up travel ?
I don't know my pinion/driveshaft angles offhand , but the driveshaft is somewhere in the high 30°'s
To put it in perspective a stock d2 shaft binds at ride height I.e does not turn without hitting itself.
A ground all to shit stock d2 shaft binds at 4-6 inches of droop ( don't remember i did all these measurments years ago) and a ground 1310 shaft binds a bit later.
So basically what I am saying is I'm tired of tight limiting straps. I'm tired of replacing ujoints / centering balls . I'm tired of literally blowing up driveshafts off road. And I am not willing to drive a truck that handles like a bag of dogs assholes. In retrospect I've spent more time fucking about with driveshafts and typing on this forum than it would have taken me to fix the problem.
Oh I see.
Try taking out your caster correction. Caster corrected arms make it worse IMO. I ran 14" sb shocks and didn't max them out, or the driveshaft in radius arms.
I had no issues with handling 4" lift and no correction.
Edit, link mounts?
Put your pinion where it should be. Then drive it and see how bad it is. Check your caster and see what it is vs stock.
Brett , I need to point my pinion upwards. I drive the truck at over 15mph . I can't have a positive caster angle, the only way to get the caster back on a open knuckle axle is to cut the "C's" ( the metal bit that the ball joints are mounted to and welded to the axles) and re-weld them at the proper caster angle.
Pinion where it should be according to tom woods = -3° of caster (top ball joint tipped forward) although I haven't ever driven it at -3° I have at 0° and its nearly undrivable. I can garuntee that it would be borderline deadly. As by the nature of caster angle the wheels would always want to turn .
I have also spaced up my transfer case about as much as I can without causing tons of other issues.